Climbs 246
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1114m a.s.l
Faces S

Carillo-Cantabella - Leyva 5+ *** © Matt1234

Crag features

A long way south of the popular climbing areas around Benidorm and Calp, lurks Leyva, a major venue that is well worth a visit. It is a magnificent cliff of international significance with 60 major routes; the main face being a 150 metre high, south-facing wall of great rock. The early routes here were done in traditional style originally but all the best climbs are now fully bolted. All that is required for these is fifteen quickdraws and double ropes for the abseil descent. If you prefer to travel even lighter, and just use a single rope, it is possible to walk off the right-hand side of the cliff. Down and right of the main cliff there are two smaller crags with a good selection of single pitch sport climbs across a range of difficulty, the Sectors de la Cueva and Pecera.

The cliff faces south and is a great winter venue; it is possible to climb on the face in T-shirts whilst the hollows are filled with frost. If there is a wind blowing then you won't get much shelter on the high face. Summers are usually too hot as all the cliffs face almost due south.

Approach notes

Follow the motorway south from Alicante, round Murcia (80km) then continue southwards for another 22km to a turn off that runs into the town of Alhama de Murcia. Turn right in the centre of town onto the C3315 (signs for Mula) and follow this to a left turn about 6km from the edge of town signed 'El Berro 7.5km'. (Straight on is also signed to 'El Berro' but is 10km). Drive steeply uphill to a turning on the right to El Berro but continue straight for 3 kms. Turn right onto a tarmac road with white Regional Park signs. After 200m go right again onto good dirt road (Regional Park signs). Continue to the parking area after 1km. Take main track past green gates. The cliffs are a 30-50 minute walk up the main track. 


Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)

Out of print:
Fantastic crag 91 routes 100 - 200m long mixture of trad, semi bolted and fully bolted sport routes.
mike sh - 29/Mar/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Main Face 
2Pequeño Pepillo6a ***3
3Carillo-Cantabella5c ***48
4Gallego-Seiquer6b **2
5Carrillo - del Campo6b+ **4
6Riglos6c **2
7Fisura Carrillo - Vera6b ***10
8Eiger6c ***1
9Historia intermiable6b+ ***4
10Gallego-Carillo6b ** 
11Carnaval6a+ **14
12Yosemite7b ** 
13Lavaredo7a ** 
14Gallego - Hurtado5c **2
15Fisura Snoopy6a * 
 Las Cuevas 
17Deseo6c ***1
18La proa7c+ * 
19Saltamontes cagón7a+ **1
20La continuidad me va7c **1
21Copón de reyes7b+ ** 
23Pelotilla colgadera7a *3
24El cielo puede esperar7a+ ***5
25Divinas palabras7a+ ***3
26Hombre wpo7b+ *** 
27Sube tu que de risa6b **2
28Soy un cagalindres7a+ * 
29Poder de la mente8a ** 
30Humeando y resbalosa7b+ **3
31Quien la sigue la consigue8a * 
63No es Broma Lo Que Desploma
8a 1
64Route 11
65Caga Superficial - (may not exist)
66Caja Hondo
67Tira de la Cadena
69Cristina, Venta a mi Piscina
 Le Pecera 
71Diedro Barracuda6a **7
72Pez globo6a *3
73Tiburón Martilla6b **5
74Congerie Belga6c **3
75El boquerón6b+ **3
76El mero6b+ **1
77Nudibranquio6b+ *1
78El abadejo7b  
79Pulpo roquero6b *3
80Lenguado Bulero6a+ *1
81La manta ray6a *3
82Pastinaca6a *4
83El metillon colaro6b *4
84El rascacio6a *4
85El sarga real6a+ *3
86La ballena azul6a **6
87La tortuga carey5c **10
88El delfín5a **14
 To be checked 
90Bonsay *6b+ ***2
91Espolón Terray *5a *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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