Altitude 1114m a.s.l
Carillo-Cantabella - Leyva 5+ *** © Matt1234
A long way south of the popular climbing areas around Benidorm and Calp, lurks Leyva, a major venue that is well worth a visit. It is a magnificent cliff of international significance with 60 major routes; the main face being a 150 metre high, south-facing wall of great rock. The early routes here were done in traditional style originally but all the best climbs are now fully bolted. All that is required for these is fifteen quickdraws and double ropes for the abseil descent. If you prefer to travel even lighter, and just use a single rope, it is possible to walk off the right-hand side of the cliff. Down and right of the main cliff there are two smaller crags with a good selection of single pitch sport climbs across a range of difficulty, the Sectors de la Cueva and Pecera.
The cliff faces south and is a great winter venue; it is possible to climb on the face in T-shirts whilst the hollows are filled with frost. If there is a wind blowing then you won't get much shelter on the high face. Summers are usually too hot as all the cliffs face almost due south.
Follow the motorway south from Alicante, round Murcia (80km) then continue southwards for another 22km to a turn off that runs into the town of Alhama de Murcia. Turn right in the centre of town onto the C3315 (signs for Mula) and follow this to a left turn about 6km from the edge of town signed 'El Berro 7.5km'. (Straight on is also signed to 'El Berro' but is 10km). Drive steeply uphill to a turning on the right to El Berro but continue straight for 3 kms. Turn right onto a tarmac road with white Regional Park signs. After 200m go right again onto good dirt road (Regional Park signs). Continue to the parking area after 1km. Take main track past green gates. The cliffs are a 30-50 minute walk up the main track.
91 routes 100 - 200m long
mixture of trad, semi bolted and fully bolted sport routes.
mike sh - 29/Mar/07