Climbs 63
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 972m a.s.l
Faces S

Kim on Ulimatun at Sierra Magadalena, a fine route to make you giggle. © kimrickwood

Crag features

This is not a major venue, and a bit 'in the middle of nowhere', hence it doesn’t see much in the way of visitors. It has a varied selection of sixty or so routes, all in a rather scruffy and very arid setting. It is not worth a visit from afar, but, if you are in the area, it is worth considering for a couple of hour’s sport. The Pared Negra is the best bit of rock here and the only one we describe. It has a pleasant collection of well-bolted low-grade slab climbs in a sunny setting, worth a day if you climb at 5/5+ and want to tick plenty of routes without too much effort. Generally speaking, the grades here are all rather tough. The fixed gear is excellent on all the decent routes.

The cliff described here faces south. It dries rapidly after rain, and the whole valley is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach notes

Yecla is about 60km north west of Alicante, and is usually approached from Villena on the A31 Madrid road. Just before Yecla, bear left onto the ring road (N334) and follow this for 8km until the road from the centre of town comes in from the right. Just under 1km from here, and opposite a wired enclosure on the left, is a nondescript dirt track branching off to the right. Follow this to a right fork by a sunken water tank. Continue along this, bearing left at a ruined house, then right at a T-junction just beyond a new house. Continue along the road through a low point in the ridge as it swings up and right to an open parking area - the last section is steep and rough. This is 4km from the road.

I thought the crag environment was pleasant. Not scruffy as stated in Rockfax miniguide
harold walmsley - 27/Nov/13
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Climbs at this crag

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