Climbs 38
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 654m a.s.l
Faces SW

Not the most picturesque of crags © Tyler

Crag features

Alcoi Uxola is not the most popular crag, it's not that the climbing is bad - though it is hard - it more that the place is poorly situated above a busy town and is really awkward to get to from the coast. In spite of these drawbacks, a worthwhile day's climbing can be had here since the actual routes are quite good, especially in the harder grades. They are well equipped with new bolts and lower-offs. The grades tend to be a notch harder than elsewhere and it is probably only of real interest to people who lead 7a and above, although the slab at the top of the crag has some easier offerings and the classic of Mosca is worth calling in for.

The crag faces south and is sheltered making it a real sun-trap. Due to its angle, it will stay dry in light rain but will get wet pretty quickly in heavier stuff.

Approach notes

Alcoi is approximately 50km north of Alicante, in the middle of the mountains. Leave the AP-7 at junction 50 and head into the town. Follow this next bit carefully because if you get lost, then you will find yourself in a maze of one-way streets. Take the N340 into the town and turn left over a bridge at a T-junction. Follow this road as it curves round over another bridge then turn left at some lights before a tall church. Drive straight up here ('Calle Espronceda') to the top and turn right at another T-junction. Drive along this road until facing directly at some bins. Turn left onto 'Carrer Isabel la Católica'. Drive up here and turn left at a blue mini roundabout. Continue down here until facing a no entry then turn right uphill. At the top of this road turn left below some pylons. Drive to the end of this road and park. The crag is up the hill a short distance.

Getting to this crag is a little difficult: As it says in the guide, its best to get a look at the place then just use the force to navigate toward it. The map in the guide is spot on with the 2 bridges and the church, but then its worth mentioning the map kind of suggests the road curves to the right and this isnt the case; you have to do a definite right turn uphill (When driving out of town) to reach the parking spot. Also, if you go through the tunnel you are likely to get locals waving and shouting at you...
Ewan - 21/Apr/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Main Sector 
2Gusano loco5c  
3Nen butrut6a  
4Susi6a *2
5Acido6a+ *4
6Mírate6a+ *8
7Mírate variación5c 3
8Migueleño Schwarzeneger5c *7
9Vampiro6a+ **9
10Beso negro6c * 
11Flipo8a * 
12Orinal con pedales6c+ ** 
13Mosca6a+ **12
14Jetro7b * 
15Vómitos leprosos7b+ ** 
16Pestañas postizas7b ** 
17Super flan7c * 
18Guapo del sapo7b *2
19Mejillas tiernas8a * 
20Moldura8a * 
21Mescalito8a * 
22Dimitiré Macro Plus7c+ *** 
23Endavid7b+ ** 
24Espera de Juan Lema7a+ ** 
25Oleada pétrea6c+ ***4
26Distrito6c **1
27Vena Loca7a+ * 
28Que se mueran los feos7a * 
29Veneno6b **3
30Polos palos lolos6a * 
31Araña6b * 
32Aniceto que te meto6b  
33Ventana electrónica6b+  
34Tentáculos5c 1
36Los chinos6a+  

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