The first time I saw it I was awed. The second time I was left speechless looking at it for half an hour and the third time I shouted "belay" at the bottom of the imposing massif of Kofinas. One of the most beautiful mountains in Crete, south of Iraklio, with great climbing interest. The north face has three routes and the south five where two of them are multi pitch. You wont find many bolts here, just a few in belays. In the summer of 1999 two Austrian climbers climbed for the first time a long and difficult route for which we know almost nothing and the few information that we got were from Gunnar who lives and climbs in Kapetaniana.
There are two ways to aproach the routes on north face of Kofinas. The first one from Sternes village and the second one from Kapetaniana. Both need an off road car as in some parts of the road the surface is really bad. You can however aproach the area by walking. You will need an hour from Kapetaniana to the small church on the bottom of the routes. Four routes opened in this area at the moment, all multi pitch. One of them are still under construction so no further details will be given until we sort out the whole route.
Crete, Kapetaniana - Kofinas
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