Climbs 258
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces all

Steve on Tortuga Island 7c © Orange House

Crag features

The Sierra de Toix is the impressive ridge that juts out into the sea between Calp to the north and Altea to the south. There are rock outcrops all along the ridge facing in all directions and there is also a massive sea cliff on the lower south side. 

Historically this was one of the first areas to be developed for sport climbing back in the 1980s and some of the routes (and gear) are showing their age. More recently the larger less-continuous faces have been developed with a series of long, often multi-pitch, routes with a mixture of threads and bolts for protection and often indicated by red-painted arrows.

One of the great appeals of the area is the wide variety of routes on offer in the mid and lower grades making it probably the most popular crag in the whole of the Costa Blanca. As a complete contrast to this the stunning sea cliffs on the southern side have a set of routes for the more adventurous climber looking for both sport and trad routes in a wild and atmospheric setting.

There is no doubt that the Toix area has a love or hate relationship with many visitors. What is clear though is that most people will visit here at least once during a one week stay in the area and almost certainly enjoy some excellent routes in a dramatic setting.

The 360˚ aspect means that it is almost always possible to find something to climb here whatever the weather. If it is raining inland it is often dry on Toix. Conversely, when the sun is beating down, it is possible to find some shade - for easier routes Toix Oeste in the morning and Toix Este in the afternoon are both worth considering. Its exposed position means that it can be windy.

Approach notes

Most of the various buttresses described here are reached from Maryvilla - the sprawling collection of holiday villas on the northern slopes of the ridge. The Maryvilla's turn-off is well-signed on the N332 to the south of Calp, just north of the Mascarat Gorge (note that entry is not allowed south-bound; continue a couple of hundred metres to where a lay-by allows you to turn around). Once you are in Maryvilla, stick to the approach descriptions listed with each crag and you should be okay. If you are driving up from further south, then take the Altea turn off (junction 64) and drive through the Mascarat Gorge to find Maryvilla on the right. There is also a useful parking spot in Pueblo Mascarat for access to Raco del Corv.


Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
The route just left The Whole of creation is named "Mussol fantastic"
Biggo - 04/Dec/13
The road to Toix TV has a wire across it now, just after the last villa, you have to park and walk. Maybe nearer to walk from Toix Oeste, but a bit harder?
Stu Tyrrell - 17/Jul/13
"Super Kulore" is one of the new routes to the left of Hetti at toix este - 8 pitches and 260m grade 4 - excellant tour of the new crag
auld al - 25/Jan/12
There is a new line between "Presto" and "the whole of creation", just left of 'the whole of creation'", goes at about 6a+/6b.
ASchwirtz - 02/Jan/12
how about sorting the routes into the sectors?
michael burrows - 29/Oct/11
there are now 4 new grade 5 climbs left of hetti on sector este about aound 30m long. also several grade 3/4 multi pitch which had just been put up, the names and grades are written on the rock, unfortunately i didn't write them down.. doh
michael burrows - 29/Oct/11
Toix Far Oeste: 5 brand new routes (2011) round to R of El endo, No14, p245 Rockfax. I've just done the second and third. Worth it and in the 5/5+ range. Names are at the bottom but no grades.
Paul Horan - 22/Mar/11
Big fan of Toix Far Oeste which is simple to reach and has lots of nice easy routes, perfect for beginners or people not wanting to push themselves too hard and it generally seems to be sunny and warm, even in winter.
magpie - 05/Jan/10
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Toix Oeste 
2Amarilla5a *11
3Zorro Veloz6b **13
4Plata6a **30
5Green Route I6a+ **45
6A Black Route7a **11
7Red Route Directa6c *6
8Red Route I6b ***64
9Black Route6b+ **20
10Bernado6a **6
11Green Route II6a **82
12Espolón Limaban5a ***353
13Dedi - UBSA6a **77
14Red Route II5c **152
15Del Plas5c **59
16Carlos6a *56
17Blue Route5c **82
18Posi6a *35
19Dire Straits5c *90
20Dire Espolón5a *20
21Espolón Gris4c **245
22Método tradicional4a 38
23Viejos tiempos4c *7
24Tiempo Moderno6a+ **33
25Red Route III6a *65
26Renov5a **270
27Manuel Andres6a **28
28Green Route lll6a *35
29Maria Reyes6b *11
30El Menú de Día5c *24
31Black Route II5a **144
32Chabito4c *48
 Far Oeste 
34La roja una3 *332
35Asombroso3+ *439
36Costilla4c *527
37La roja dos4a *525
38Bella ruta4a *500
39Ocho fixe4a *486
40Hamna4a *232
41Uroma3 *122
42La roja tres5a *616
43Help for Heroes6b *68
44La cagona4c *153
45La roja quatro3 *295
46Bernd4a *206
47Senor Jones4a *344
48Eve4a *80
49Presto5c *309
50Blunt6b *40
51The Whole of Creation6c **122
52Enérgico6a+ **303
53La roja seis5c *406
54El endo4a *280
55Darola3+ 14
56Gracias Uwa4c 66
57Pequeno Gecko5a *103
58Grand Grill5c *110
59Lobo6a *156
60Ausgeschissn4c *98
 Toix Placa 
62Cliber5c **104
63Ruwa5a *53
64Oma Sus5a **123
65Opa Mus5a 9
66Lofi4c *111
67Lara4c **135
68Anto5a *54
4b 8
3+ 24
71Ana4c **135
72Hewa5a *48
73Taca Ploix6a+ 1
74Mushu6a *47
75Ghost in the Shell6b+ **21
76Horst (TP)
5a *5
77Jan4c **57
78Eva4c 4
79Los Urbanos4c *66
80Anbea4a 26
81Jonas4a 16
82Alasdair3+ *30
83Kurzer Genus5a *27
84Kalk Svott Wiehnul6b *75
85Heavy Boyfriend6a+ *17
86Rudy Caroll6a+ *17
87Coming back to Life6c **60
88Thalia6b+ *122
89No Name6a+ **151
90Pegasus6a *106
91Cicky Bugger5c *105
92Heaven Is...5c **183
93Johanna5a **145
94Heti4c *90
954 You6a **100
96Semi Dulce5c *60
97Steinbeisser6a *66
98Fantasia6a 34
99For my son Jens6b+ *14
100For my son Jens (Initial Rib)5b 1
101Aladdin6c 5
102Hafa4c *7
103Hova4c **43
104Noldis5c *13
 Toix TV - Amphitheatre 
106Scorpion7a+ *3
107Cobra (P1)7b ***4
108Cobra8a **1
109Short and Sweet5c **104
110Monkey Wall6c ***71
111Painted Wall6b+ **96
112Max Headroom7c+ ** 
113Mongoose7c ** 
114Dynosaurus7b **10
115Gripper6a+ **57
116Chain Lane6a+ *29
117Nut Route5a 3
118Chunkies4c 24
 Toix TV - Tropical Dreams 
120Reigen Bogen5c 5
121Daddycool6a+ *28
122Terminator6c+ *15
123Follow Me7a+ **15
124Salida7a **34
125Gaudi Max6a+ *88
126Cloud No.96a **78
127El baile5a **107
128UB406a **165
129Tropical Dreams6a **305
130Dear Renate6a **186
131Verlassen + betrogen4c *236
132Banana Joe6a 108
133Universal6a **125
134Gufelwufel5a **249
135Seduction6a *167
136Atlantis6a *37
137Gutzufuss3+ 54
138Snadengrot4a 53
 The Toix Ridge 
140The Toix Ridge5c **42
 Raco Del Corv 
142Clive's Redoubt7a ***7
143Isla de encanta6b ***16
144El Dorado6a+ ***65
145Eldorado 26a 1
146Sombre7b 1
148Ven Corada6b **6
149Vía Missing Link6b+ ***20
150Ven Corada Right6b+ * 
151Luces Nocturnas6b ** 
152Le Galleon6a *2
 Magical Mystery Tour 
154Rowland's Promised Land6b **2
155Rowland's Journey to Xanadu6c ***2
156Journey to Xanadu6c ** 
157Kubla Khan7b * 
158Dimage6b+ * 
159Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour5a ***138
160Raptured Dreams7a  
161The Flame7b  
162Candelabra del Sol8a *** 
163Goliath8a ** 
164Lady in Space6b **1
165Malice Aforethought6b * 
 Pirates of the Caribbean 
F7a+ 1
168La Senda de los Huesos6b 1
169Calypso (P1)
6c **2
170Calypso7b+ *1
171El fin del mundo (P1)
7a+ **1
172El Fin del Mundo7c ** 
173Perla Negra8a ***1
174Bo'Sun (P1)6a **3
175Boson7b+ **1
176Boson's Chair7c * 
177Tia Alma7c ** 
178Murtogg6c+ * 
179Mullroy7a ** 
180Tortuga Approach7a * 
181Tortuga Island7c ** 
182Capt Barbossa7a+ 3
183Anna Maria la Pirata con Cojones7c+ **1
184Off the Edge of the Map8a *** 
185Keelhauled7b ***1
186Plank Walk6c *3
187Parle6a+ ***76
188Miss Swan6b * 
189Aztec Gold6b+  
190Welcome to the Caribbean7c+ ** 
191Jack Sparrow7a * 
192Orange Men8a+ ** 
 Toix Este 
194Variante Juan Directa5c 1
195George3+ 16
196Juan4a 5
197Quick4a 4
198Horst4c *35
199Spatz5a *6
200Puma5c **7
201Espolón Arta4a 14
202Eva's Traum5c *6
203Koch Platte5c *16
204Genid5a *13
205Los Amigos5c *11
206Ralf3 *4
207Kulore4a 1
208Super Kulore4a *12
209Hetti4c *56
210Fluida Conexión Izquierda6b 4
211Fluida Conexión6b+ *6
212Borro el toro7a+ 2
213Edward's Slab7a 2
214La tonta del bote6b+ *4
215Vía de los fakiros6b+ *7
216Hannah6b **13
217Hekur5c *7
218Purpúreo5a *41
219Spölli5a *59
220Winter6a **45
221Verde5c **65
222"P"5c **35
223Vía la fina5c **61
224Plata6a+ *26
225Vía pyramid5a *23
226Sol y bon tiempo6b+ *9
227Vía yuyuba Directa6c *5
228Vía yuyuba6a+ ***41
229King Cucudrulu7a 4
230El oso y el mandaron6a+ **25
231Verde dos6a *43
232La ramuna arenosa6a+ *34
233Going Solo6c+ 10
234Graphic Whore6c+ 2
235Amarillo6a 21
236Adiós Dali7c+ * 
 Toix Norte 
238Route 17b ** 
239Por quien doblan7b+ ** 
240Route 37a+ ***2
241S.S.7b ***2
242La Niña6b+  
243La Novia6b 1
244La Viuda6c 1
245Piñón7a 1
246Route 97b * 
247Route 107a+ * 

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris Craggs