Climbs 258
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces all

Steve on Tortuga Island 7c © Orange House

Crag features

The Sierra de Toix is the impressive ridge that juts out into the sea between Calp to the north and Altea to the south. There are rock outcrops all along the ridge facing in all directions and there is also a massive sea cliff on the lower south side. 

Historically this was one of the first areas to be developed for sport climbing back in the 1980s and some of the routes (and gear) are showing their age. More recently the larger less-continuous faces have been developed with a series of long, often multi-pitch, routes with a mixture of threads and bolts for protection and often indicated by red-painted arrows.

One of the great appeals of the area is the wide variety of routes on offer in the mid and lower grades making it probably the most popular crag in the whole of the Costa Blanca. As a complete contrast to this the stunning sea cliffs on the southern side have a set of routes for the more adventurous climber looking for both sport and trad routes in a wild and atmospheric setting.

There is no doubt that the Toix area has a love or hate relationship with many visitors. What is clear though is that most people will visit here at least once during a one week stay in the area and almost certainly enjoy some excellent routes in a dramatic setting.

The 360˚ aspect means that it is almost always possible to find something to climb here whatever the weather. If it is raining inland it is often dry on Toix. Conversely, when the sun is beating down, it is possible to find some shade - for easier routes Toix Oeste in the morning and Toix Este in the afternoon are both worth considering. Its exposed position means that it can be windy.

Approach notes

Most of the various buttresses described here are reached from Maryvilla - the sprawling collection of holiday villas on the northern slopes of the ridge. The Maryvilla's turn-off is well-signed on the N332 to the south of Calp, just north of the Mascarat Gorge (note that entry is not allowed south-bound; continue a couple of hundred metres to where a lay-by allows you to turn around). Once you are in Maryvilla, stick to the approach descriptions listed with each crag and you should be okay. If you are driving up from further south, then take the Altea turn off (junction 64) and drive through the Mascarat Gorge to find Maryvilla on the right. There is also a useful parking spot in Pueblo Mascarat for access to Raco del Corv.

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Guidebooks

The route just left The Whole of creation is named "Mussol fantastic"
Biggo - 04/Dec/13
The road to Toix TV has a wire across it now, just after the last villa, you have to park and walk. Maybe nearer to walk from Toix Oeste, but a bit harder?
Stu Tyrrell - 17/Jul/13
"Super Kulore" is one of the new routes to the left of Hetti at toix este - 8 pitches and 260m grade 4 - excellant tour of the new crag
auld al - 25/Jan/12
There is a new line between "Presto" and "the whole of creation", just left of 'the whole of creation'", goes at about 6a+/6b.
ASchwirtz - 02/Jan/12
how about sorting the routes into the sectors?
michael burrows - 29/Oct/11
there are now 4 new grade 5 climbs left of hetti on sector este about aound 30m long. also several grade 3/4 multi pitch which had just been put up, the names and grades are written on the rock, unfortunately i didn't write them down.. doh
michael burrows - 29/Oct/11
Toix Far Oeste: 5 brand new routes (2011) round to R of El endo, No14, p245 Rockfax. I've just done the second and third. Worth it and in the 5/5+ range. Names are at the bottom but no grades.
Paul Horan - 22/Mar/11
Big fan of Toix Far Oeste which is simple to reach and has lots of nice easy routes, perfect for beginners or people not wanting to push themselves too hard and it generally seems to be sunny and warm, even in winter.
magpie - 05/Jan/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Toix Oeste 
2Amarilla5a *17
3Zorro Veloz6b **14
4Plata6a **36
5Green Route I6a+ **47
6A Black Route7a **12
7Red Route Directa6c *6
8Red Route I6b ***67
9Black Route6b+ **22
10Bernado6a **6
11Green Route II6a **89
12Espolón Limaban5a ***404
13Dedi - UBSA6a **81
14Red Route II5c **160
15Del Plas5c **70
16Carlos6a *65
17Blue Route5c **89
18Posi6a *37
19Dire Straits5c *100
20Dire Espolón5a *29
21Espolón Gris4c **261
22Método tradicional4a 38
23Viejos tiempos4c *16
24Tiempo Moderno6a+ **43
25Red Route III6a *71
26Renov5a **288
27Manuel Andres6a **33
28Green Route lll6a *35
29Maria Reyes6b *12
30El Menú de Día5c *26
31Black Route II5a **153
32Chabito4c *55
 Far Oeste 
34Dessie Done Dallas3 **12
35La roja una3 *355
36Asombroso3+ *479
37Costilla4c *568
38La roja dos4a *561
39Bella ruta4a *535
40Ocho fixe4a *536
41Hamna4a *276
42Uroma3 *141
43La roja tres5a *690
44Help for Heroes6b *87
45La cagona4c *184
46La roja quatro3 *325
47Bernd4a *247
48Senor Jones4a *378
49Eve4a *97
50Presto5c *325
51Blunt6b *52
52The Whole of Creation6c **137
53Enérgico6a+ **338
54La roja seis5c *456
55El endo4a *304
56Darola3+ 23
57Gracias Uwa4c 86
58Pequeno Gecko5a *129
59Grand Grill5c *140
60Lobo6a *199
61Ausgeschissn4c *120
 Toix Placa 
63Cliber5c **124
64Ruwa5a *63
65Oma Sus5a **137
66Opa Mus5a 10
67Lofi4c *124
68Lara4c **152
69Anto5a *64
70Rosa
-
4b 8
71Maria
-
3+ 25
72Ana4c **148
73Hewa5a *57
74Taca Ploix6a+ 1
75Mushu6a *51
76Ghost in the Shell6b+ **29
77Horst (TP)
-
5a *7
78Jan4c **65
79Eva4c 7
80Los Urbanos4c *70
81Anbea4a 28
82Jonas4a 33
83Alasdair3+ *55
84Kurzer Genus5a *48
85Kalk Svott Wiehnul6b *82
86Heavy Boyfriend6a+ *24
87Rudy Caroll6a+ *21
88Coming back to Life6c **72
89Thalia6b+ *141
90No Name6a+ **173
91Pegasus6a *116
92Cicky Bugger5c *118
93Heaven Is...5c **200
94Johanna5a **156
95Heti4c *100
964 You6a **107
97Semi Dulce5c *61
98Steinbeisser6a *71
99Fantasia6a 33
100For my son Jens6b+ *14
101For my son Jens (Initial Rib)5b 2
102Aladdin6c 5
103Hafa4c *7
104Hova4c **44
105Noldis5c *15
 Toix TV - Amphitheatre 
107Scorpion7a+ *3
108Cobra (P1)7b ***4
109Cobra8a **1
110Short and Sweet5c **112
111Monkey Wall6c ***80
112Painted Wall6b+ **114
113Max Headroom7c+ ** 
114Mongoose7c ** 
115Dynosaurus7b **10
116Gripper6a+ **67
117Chain Lane6a+ *29
118Nut Route5a 3
119Chunkies4c 24
 Toix TV - Tropical Dreams 
121Reigen Bogen5c 5
122Daddycool6a+ *30
123Terminator6c+ *17
124Follow Me7a+ **18
125Salida7a **36
126Gaudi Max6a+ *97
127Cloud No.96a **88
128El baile5a **122
129UB406a **189
130Tropical Dreams6a **330
131Dear Renate6a **215
132Verlassen + betrogen4c *258
133Banana Joe6a 113
134Universal6a **141
135Gufelwufel5a **280
136Seduction6a *179
137Atlantis6a *44
138Gutzufuss3+ 68
139Snadengrot4a 71
 The Toix Ridge 
141The Toix Ridge5c **58
 Raco Del Corv 
143Clive's Redoubt7a ***8
144Isla de encanta6b ***20
145El Dorado6a+ ***80
146Eldorado 26a 1
147Sombre7b 1
148Müne7b  
149Ven Corada6b **6
150Vía Missing Link6b+ ***25
151Ven Corada Right6b+ * 
152Luces Nocturnas6b ** 
153Le Galleon6a *2
 Magical Mystery Tour 
155Rowland's Promised Land6b **2
156Rowland's Journey to Xanadu6c ***2
157Journey to Xanadu6c ** 
158Kubla Khan7b * 
159Dimage6b+ * 
160Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour5a ***186
161Raptured Dreams7a  
162The Flame7b  
163Candelabra del Sol8a *** 
164Goliath8a ** 
165Lady in Space6b **1
166Malice Aforethought6b * 
 Pirates of the Caribbean 
168Calamardo
-
F7a+ 1
169La Senda de los Huesos6b 1
170Calypso (P1)
-
6c **2
171Calypso7b+ *1
172El fin del mundo (P1)
-
7a+ **2
173El Fin del Mundo7c **1
174Perla Negra8a ***1
175Bo'Sun (P1)6a **3
176Boson7b+ **1
177Boson's Chair7c * 
178Tia Alma7c ** 
179Murtogg6c+ * 
180Mullroy7a ** 
181Tortuga Approach7a * 
182Tortuga Island7c ** 
183Capt Barbossa7a+ 3
184Anna Maria la Pirata con Cojones7c+ **2
185Off the Edge of the Map8a *** 
186Keelhauled7b ***1
187Plank Walk6c *4
188Parle6a+ ***66
189Miss Swan6b * 
190Aztec Gold6b+  
191Welcome to the Caribbean7c+ ** 
192Jack Sparrow7a * 
193Orange Men8a+ ** 
 Toix Este 
195Variante Juan Directa5c 1
196George3+ 17
197Juan4a 6
198Quick4a 6
199Horst4c *41
200Spatz5a *8
201Puma5c **9
202Espolón Arta4a 17
203Eva's Traum5c *6
204Koch Platte5c *18
205Genid5a *15
206Los Amigos5c *13
207Ralf3 *4
208Kulore4a 2
209Super Kulore4a *13
210Hetti4c *58
211Fluida Conexión Izquierda6b 4
212Fluida Conexión6b+ *6
213Borro el toro7a+ 3
214Edward's Slab7a 2
215La tonta del bote6b+ *4
216Vía de los fakiros6b+ *7
217Hannah6b **14
218Hekur5c *8
219Purpúreo5a *42
220Spölli5a *62
221Winter6a **47
222Verde5c **68
223"P"5c **42
224Vía la fina5c **67
225Plata6a+ *30
226Vía pyramid5a *23
227Sol y bon tiempo6b+ *9
228Vía yuyuba Directa6c *6
229Vía yuyuba6a+ ***48
230King Cucudrulu7a 6
231El oso y el mandaron6a+ **25
232Verde dos6a *46
233La ramuna arenosa6a+ *39
234Going Solo6c+ 11
235Graphic Whore6c+ 3
236Amarillo6a 22
237Adiós Dali7c+ * 
 Toix Norte 
239Route 17b ** 
240Por quien doblan7b+ ** 
241Route 37a+ ***2
242S.S.7b ***2
243La Niña6b+  
244La Novia6b 1
245La Viuda6c 1
246Piñón7a 1
247Route 97b * 
248Route 107a+ * 
249Perla Negra (P1) *
-
7a+ ***1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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