Climbs 258
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces all

Steve on Tortuga Island 7c © Orange House

Crag features

The Sierra de Toix is the impressive ridge that juts out into the sea between Calp to the north and Altea to the south. There are rock outcrops all along the ridge facing in all directions and there is also a massive sea cliff on the lower south side. 

Historically this was one of the first areas to be developed for sport climbing back in the 1980s and some of the routes (and gear) are showing their age. More recently the larger less-continuous faces have been developed with a series of long, often multi-pitch, routes with a mixture of threads and bolts for protection and often indicated by red-painted arrows.

One of the great appeals of the area is the wide variety of routes on offer in the mid and lower grades making it probably the most popular crag in the whole of the Costa Blanca. As a complete contrast to this the stunning sea cliffs on the southern side have a set of routes for the more adventurous climber looking for both sport and trad routes in a wild and atmospheric setting.

There is no doubt that the Toix area has a love or hate relationship with many visitors. What is clear though is that most people will visit here at least once during a one week stay in the area and almost certainly enjoy some excellent routes in a dramatic setting.

The 360˚ aspect means that it is almost always possible to find something to climb here whatever the weather. If it is raining inland it is often dry on Toix. Conversely, when the sun is beating down, it is possible to find some shade - for easier routes Toix Oeste in the morning and Toix Este in the afternoon are both worth considering. Its exposed position means that it can be windy.

Approach notes

Most of the various buttresses described here are reached from Maryvilla - the sprawling collection of holiday villas on the northern slopes of the ridge. The Maryvilla's turn-off is well-signed on the N332 to the south of Calp, just north of the Mascarat Gorge (note that entry is not allowed south-bound; continue a couple of hundred metres to where a lay-by allows you to turn around). Once you are in Maryvilla, stick to the approach descriptions listed with each crag and you should be okay. If you are driving up from further south, then take the Altea turn off (junction 64) and drive through the Mascarat Gorge to find Maryvilla on the right. There is also a useful parking spot in Pueblo Mascarat for access to Raco del Corv.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
The route just left The Whole of creation is named "Mussol fantastic"
Biggo - 04/Dec/13
The road to Toix TV has a wire across it now, just after the last villa, you have to park and walk. Maybe nearer to walk from Toix Oeste, but a bit harder?
Stu Tyrrell - 17/Jul/13
"Super Kulore" is one of the new routes to the left of Hetti at toix este - 8 pitches and 260m grade 4 - excellant tour of the new crag
auld al - 25/Jan/12
There is a new line between "Presto" and "the whole of creation", just left of 'the whole of creation'", goes at about 6a+/6b.
ASchwirtz - 02/Jan/12
how about sorting the routes into the sectors?
michael burrows - 29/Oct/11
there are now 4 new grade 5 climbs left of hetti on sector este about aound 30m long. also several grade 3/4 multi pitch which had just been put up, the names and grades are written on the rock, unfortunately i didn't write them down.. doh
michael burrows - 29/Oct/11
Toix Far Oeste: 5 brand new routes (2011) round to R of El endo, No14, p245 Rockfax. I've just done the second and third. Worth it and in the 5/5+ range. Names are at the bottom but no grades.
Paul Horan - 22/Mar/11
Big fan of Toix Far Oeste which is simple to reach and has lots of nice easy routes, perfect for beginners or people not wanting to push themselves too hard and it generally seems to be sunny and warm, even in winter.
magpie - 05/Jan/10
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Toix Oeste 
2Amarilla5a *18
3Zorro Veloz6b **14
4Plata6a **37
5Green Route I6a+ **53
6A Black Route7a **12
7Red Route Directa6c *6
8Red Route I6b ***79
9Black Route6b+ **25
10Bernado6a **6
11Green Route II6a **95
12Espolón Limaban5a ***432
13Dedi - UBSA6a **83
14Red Route II5c **174
15Del Plas5c **78
16Carlos6a *71
17Blue Route5c **94
18Posi6a *39
19Dire Straits5c *106
20Dire Espolón5a *31
21Espolón Gris4c **277
22Método tradicional4a 39
23Viejos tiempos4c *19
24Tiempo Moderno6a+ **47
25Red Route III6a *72
26Renov5a **308
27Manuel Andres6a **39
28Green Route lll6a *36
29Maria Reyes6b *13
30El Menú de Día5c *27
31Black Route II5a **158
32Chabito4c *57
 Far Oeste 
34Dessie Done Dallas3 **24
35La roja una3 *374
36Asombroso3+ *496
37Costilla4c *590
38La roja dos4a *591
39Bella ruta4a *560
40Ocho fixe4a *563
41Hamna4a *291
42Uroma3 *151
43La roja tres5a *715
44Help for Heroes6b *100
45La cagona4c *205
46La roja quatro3 *342
47Bernd4a *268
48Senor Jones4a *403
49Eve4a *106
50Presto5c *338
51Blunt6b *55
52The Whole of Creation6c **144
53Enérgico6a+ **361
54La roja seis5c *472
55El endo4a *317
56Darola3+ 29
57Gracias Uwa4c 95
58Pequeno Gecko5a *141
59Grand Grill5c *150
60Lobo6a *212
61Ausgeschissn4c *130
 Toix Placa 
63Cliber5c **143
64Ruwa5a *71
65Oma Sus5a **150
66Opa Mus5a 11
67Lofi4c *127
68Lara4c **171
69Anto5a *65
70Rosa
-
4b 8
71Maria
-
3+ 26
72Ana4c **162
73Hewa5a *57
74Taca Ploix6a+ 1
75Mushu6a *52
76Ghost in the Shell6b+ **30
77Horst (TP)
-
5a *7
78Jan4c **71
79Eva4c 8
80Los Urbanos4c *73
81Anbea4a 30
82Jonas4a 38
83Alasdair3+ *60
84Kurzer Genus5a *53
85Kalk Svott Wiehnul6b *85
86Heavy Boyfriend6a+ *27
87Rudy Caroll6a+ *22
88Coming back to Life6c **76
89Thalia6b+ *150
90No Name6a+ **186
91Pegasus6a *126
92Cicky Bugger5c *123
93Heaven Is...5c **205
94Johanna5a **167
95Heti4c *105
964 You6a **118
97Semi Dulce5c *68
98Steinbeisser6a *72
99Fantasia6a 35
100For my son Jens6b+ *14
101For my son Jens (Initial Rib)5b 2
102Aladdin6c 5
103Hafa4c *7
104Hova4c **46
105Noldis5c *15
 Toix TV - Amphitheatre 
107Scorpion7a+ *3
108Cobra (P1)7b ***4
109Cobra8a **1
110Short and Sweet5c **121
111Monkey Wall6c ***97
112Painted Wall6b+ **120
113Max Headroom7c+ ** 
114Mongoose7c ** 
115Dynosaurus7b **10
116Gripper6a+ **77
117Chain Lane6a+ *33
118Nut Route5a 3
119Chunkies4c 25
 Toix TV - Tropical Dreams 
121Reigen Bogen5c 6
122Daddycool6a+ *33
123Terminator6c+ *19
124Follow Me7a+ **19
125Salida7a **36
126Gaudi Max6a+ *104
127Cloud No.96a **98
128El baile5a **126
129UB406a **206
130Tropical Dreams6a **349
131Dear Renate6a **229
132Verlassen + betrogen4c *264
133Banana Joe6a 119
134Universal6a **153
135Gufelwufel5a **295
136Seduction6a *189
137Atlantis6a *48
138Gutzufuss3+ 72
139Snadengrot4a 75
 The Toix Ridge 
141The Toix Ridge5c **85
 Raco Del Corv 
143Clive's Redoubt7a ***8
144Isla de encanta6b ***26
145El Dorado6a+ ***93
146Eldorado 26a 1
147Sombre7b 1
148Müne7b  
149Ven Corada6b **6
150Vía Missing Link6b+ ***33
151Ven Corada Right6b+ * 
152Luces Nocturnas6b ** 
153Le Galleon6a *2
 Magical Mystery Tour 
155Rowland's Promised Land6b **2
156Rowland's Journey to Xanadu6c ***2
157Journey to Xanadu6c ** 
158Kubla Khan7b * 
159Dimage6b+ * 
160Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour5a ***204
161Raptured Dreams7a  
162The Flame7b  
163Candelabra del Sol8a *** 
164Goliath8a ** 
165Lady in Space6b **1
166Malice Aforethought6b * 
 Pirates of the Caribbean 
168Calamardo
-
F7a+ 1
169La Senda de los Huesos6b 1
170Calypso (P1)
-
6c **2
171Calypso7b+ *1
172El fin del mundo (P1)
-
7a+ **2
173El Fin del Mundo7c **1
174Perla Negra8a ***1
175Bo'Sun (P1)6a **3
176Boson7b+ **1
177Boson's Chair7c * 
178Tia Alma7c ** 
179Murtogg6c+ * 
180Mullroy7a ** 
181Tortuga Approach7a * 
182Tortuga Island7c ** 
183Capt Barbossa7a+ 3
184Anna Maria la Pirata con Cojones7c+ **2
185Off the Edge of the Map8a *** 
186Keelhauled7b ***1
187Plank Walk6c *4
188Parle6a+ ***101
189Miss Swan6b * 
190Aztec Gold6b+  
191Welcome to the Caribbean7c+ ** 
192Jack Sparrow7a * 
193Orange Men8a+ ** 
 Toix Este 
195Variante Juan Directa5c 2
196George3+ 22
197Juan4a 9
198Quick4a 8
199Horst4c *53
200Spatz5a *9
201Puma5c **10
202Espolón Arta4a 18
203Eva's Traum5c *11
204Koch Platte5c *18
205Genid5a *17
206Los Amigos5c *15
207Ralf3 *5
208Kulore4a 7
209Super Kulore4a *19
210Hetti4c *59
211Fluida Conexión Izquierda6b 4
212Fluida Conexión6b+ *6
213Borro el toro7a+ 3
214Edward's Slab7a 2
215La tonta del bote6b+ *4
216Vía de los fakiros6b+ *7
217Hannah6b **14
218Hekur5c *9
219Purpúreo5a *42
220Spölli5a *67
221Winter6a **50
222Verde5c **74
223"P"5c **48
224Vía la fina5c **76
225Plata6a+ *33
226Vía pyramid5a *23
227Sol y bon tiempo6b+ *11
228Vía yuyuba Directa6c *6
229Vía yuyuba6a+ ***51
230King Cucudrulu7a 7
231El oso y el mandaron6a+ **25
232Verde dos6a *46
233La ramuna arenosa6a+ *41
234Going Solo6c+ 12
235Graphic Whore6c+ 3
236Amarillo6a 22
237Adiós Dali7c+ * 
 Toix Norte 
239Route 17b ** 
240Por quien doblan7b+ ** 
241Route 37a+ ***2
242S.S.7b ***2
243La Niña6b+  
244La Novia6b 1
245La Viuda6c 1
246Piñón7a 1
247Route 97b * 
248Route 107a+ * 
249Perla Negra (P1) *
-
7a+ ***1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris Craggs