Climbs 7
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 166m a.s.l
Crag features
A new crag full of potential that may tempt a sport crag developer. To my knowledge this crag has had no previous climbing history, so plenty of first ascents available. The quarry can be clearly seen from Crosskeys (look dead West) just above the rugby club. There is a mixture of clean technical faces, bold overhanging wall (with an impressive 3 tier overhang) and plenty of other route potential. (and scattered boulders in places around the hill).Birds of prey nest on the high ledges in the centre of the crag. So bird restrictions may be in force.
The shorter cleaner walls on the extreme left have several routes and closed projects geared with a mixture of glueins and through bolts
Enjoy...
Approach notes
Exit the M4 at Junction 28 and follow the A467 to Crosskeys, stay on the A467 passing the new Tesco on your right until you reach the Full Moon roundabout, take the 3rd exit then take the first left turn (signposted for an industrial estate) you should see a forestry commission track immediately to your right (park here). Walk up that track for about half a mile and lookout for a footpath on your left (it is a bit overgrown and easily missed). A good transit is the lights of the rugby club below at the northern end of the pitch. Follow this track steeply up hill and you will eventually reach the crag.
Best to locate crag visually from Crosskeys before walking up. Or use GPS – grid ref ST 215 921
Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 31 March to 15 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is currently a Peregrine nesting in the centre of the main cliff. Any climbing from March to August should stay clear of these central routes and no development in the quarry should take place during this period.| What a stunning crag. The left hand side is very broken and apprears far too lose for climbing but the right side is much harder more stable rock with clean, long, non-vegetated rock, huge, overhang and easier vertical walls. The base of the quarry also holds a boulder field with boulders up to around 3 meters tall. MathewWright1998 - 25/Sep/15 |
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| This crag has peregrine falcon nesting on it. People seen abseiling and climbing it in the past have been reported to police for egg collecting, be warned. ewog - 30/Aug/11 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
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