A new crag full of potential that may tempt a sport crag developer. To my knowledge this crag has had no previous climbing history, so plenty of first ascents available. The quarry can be clearly seen from Crosskeys (look dead West) just above the rugby club. There is a mixture of clean technical faces, bold overhanging wall (with an impressive 3 tier overhang) and plenty of other route potential. (and scattered boulders in places around the hill).
I have no idea of any access restrictions and do not know who the land owners are – follow BMC procedures before undertaken development.
Exit the M4 at Junction 28 and follow the A467 to Crosskeys, stay on the A467 passing the new Tesco on your right until you reach the Full Moon roundabout, take the 3rd exit then take the first left turn (signposted for an industrial estate) you should see a forestry commission track immediately to your right (park here). Walk up that track for about half a mile and lookout for a footpath on your left (it is a bit overgrown and easily missed). A good transit is the lights of the rugby club below at the northern end of the pitch. Follow this track steeply up hill and you will eventually reach the crag.
Best to locate crag visually from Crosskeys before walking up. Or use GPS – grid ref ST 215 921
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|This crag has peregrine falcon nesting on it. People seen abseiling and climbing it in the past have been reported to police for egg collecting, be warned.|
ewog - 30/Aug/11