Climbs 48
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 275m a.s.l
Faces NW

Kyle climbs with style. 7b redpoint © Ramon Marin

Crag features

L'Ocaive is the rocky tower south west of Ondara and Pedreguer. It is a large and rather vegetated looking crag which still has scope for further development. Most of the existing routes on the main face are in the mid-grades, giving pleasant climbing on steep, pocketed slabs. More-recent developments have concentrated on the most impressive feature of the crag, a large overhanging bay high on its right-hand side, this has increased the number of hard routes here.

A fine north-west-facing tower of a crag that is in the shade until mid-afternoon and thus is an ideal venue on hot days. Most of the cliff dries quite quickly but it is exposed to the wind.

Approach notes

L'Ocaive is situated south west of the small town of Pedreguer, which is just off the AP-7 to the north of Benissa and Calp. Turn off the AP-7 at junction 62, signed 'Ondara', then follow signs towards Pedreguer first on the N332, then turn right onto the CV-724. On the edge of Pedreguer, bear right at a small roundabout (signed towards Benidoleig). About 3km down this road, the crag is obvious on the hillside to your left. Turn left up a short track which is almost opposite a small surfaced road. You can also approach from Alcalalí by following the signs for Pedreguer. Park at the first level area up the track. Walk up the continuation track to a grotty flat spot. From the right-hand corner of this follow a good path rightwards up the hill and turn left onto a choice of paths that lead back left to the foot of the face. 


Spain : Costa Blanca

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The road up to the old quarry is horrendous. It is better to park lower down at the olive/almond groves. I dont think anyone would object.
icnoble - 12/Mar/08
The 7 km post on the approach is getting faded and is for an old road number. Better off to look for the new CV720 48km sign 20m further down the road to pedruger. P.S The locals seem to park up by the old quarry.
Mark Lloyd - 21/May/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sector Placas Tochas 
2Lagarto cachas7b+ 1
3Signs of Life6c 1
4The Fly6a  
5El bordillo de ilustro4a 34
6Cuerpo de mujer6a **47
7La esquina asesina6a+ **34
8Ocaive placas4c *41
9Aluncina con la esquina5c *52
10Correcte7a ***3
11Si ta cais ta codos6a 14
12Si ta cais ta codos Extension6c ***2
13No m'aclara6a *36
14No m'aclara Extension6b **9
15El grajo del carajo6b *29
 Sector Maniaticos 
17Plac Manía6a+ ***59
18No t'as veras6a+ **48
19Ampárate, no me toques6a+ **35
20Hombres de papel6a *65
21El medio de Icaro6c+ *8
2296 octanos6a+ **28
23Piel de gato6a **34
24El Incrédulo6a 4
25Corazón salado6a+ *12
26Ella la araña5c *31
 Sector Cuevas 
30Ostia Expansive7b **5
31Momo7b 2
32Basket Case7a+ **20
33Basket case left-hand finish7b+ **1
34Mala hierbe6b+ *22
35La Pricessa de la Llosa6b+ 1
36Tengo7a **5
37Paraberol7a **4
38Ingeniarla urbana8a *** 
39Rosamonte6c+ ***44
40Los primos6c+ ***20
41Trocha calimnotaxa7a **15
42Route 7.57b+ **1
43Cantxaca7b **18
44La culture del miedo8a ***8
45El Camino de les Flores8c *** 
46Palestina7c **3
47Gandalf6c ***46
48Hole in One7c *1
49Glue to Go7b+ **7
50The Unknown Wall7c+ * 

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