UKC

Upload an image for this crag

Climbs 3
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 225m a.s.l
Faces SE

Crag features

Rarely visited quarry. Over 50m height,  solid rock, however due to the fact it's not been climbed (well the vast majority of the walls haven't) it does contain loose sections, that in the future will be cleared from the routes. Best features are a big slab, a number of large overhangs and crack systems  

Large boulder "Moel Y Boulder" at the left base of the quarry which has perfect flat landing space for boulder pads and has good top out with easy down climb 

BMC access has been applied for. 

Approach notes

Park in Middletown itself, suggest the pub car park, from the car park walk left along the pavement. Through the gate and onto the narrow tarmaced path, through the gate on the right, cross the road. Go up the drive for 100ms, through the gate on the left, follow the path through fields and past several houses. Eventually you will reach a drive between two houses, continue through the gate and straight up the path, through a green gate and up to the quarry. 

Walk time. If excited then 15 minutes, if not then 20, but if your not excited why are you going up there?

Mentioned in West Midlands Rock (1st edition).
Alex Thompson - 13/Sep/11
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
Please Login or Register to log routes or add them to your wishlist
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer HJEdmondson

Loading Notifications...