: This is probably the best of the New Nowra crags and now quite popular. Shade all day, easy access and great rock quality with awesome fine grained white/grey sandstone similar to some of the rock at Moonshine. The area was originally developed by Greg Wilson (aka Simple)in 2006, but kept secret from the New Nowra crew until 2011. Since then plenty of new routes have been added, several of these are 30m long rope stretching classics. Awesome fine grained white/grey sandstone similar to some of the rock at Moonshine. This crag was previously called Simple's Goldmine.
From Nowra: Continue along Braidwood road towards TJF.
1. Reset your speedo at the intersection of Turpentine and Braidwood Roads.
2. 1km: Continue on and the 620 sign will be 1km on your right.
3. 1.2km: Take the next dirt road left (Yarran Rd). Drive thru open gate. From this point on it is recommened you have either a 4WD or a car with good clearance. Sections of road can be very muddy and sometimes entirely water covered. A Forester or Rav4 is fine, a low slung sports coupe is not.
4. 3.8km: Turn down the second road on right (Butterbrush Track) it should have a small "fire trail sign"
5. 6.3km: Continue along this road until the road ends at the cliff top and the obvious parking area.
Walk 25 metres down the trail to cliff edge - directly out from the giant big dead tree is a rap anchor on a little ledge. Fix a line here or rap and pull a doubled rope here (it's 30m to the ground - a doubled 50m rope WILL NOT REACH). Simple's Wall is on your right, Monty's cave and the other climbing areas are on your left facing out.
Alternatively, to access the base of the cliff (without rap) walk toward the cliff and pick up a trail marked with yellow flagging leading to the left. After about 200m the trail leads you into a gully. Take care at the top of the gully due to loose earth and rotten rock. Trend leftward to reach the first set rungs to gain the terrace. Go right along the terrace, again take care though the sword grass and wet ground to reach the second set of rungs.
Once at the base of the cliff walk right (facing out), keeping as close to the cliff as possible, for about 50m to find a fixed rope. Scale this end traverse until you reach the base of a wall which is the start of the current development. The right hand route is Ocean Views. About 10 minutes walk from car.
|RICK ROLLER'S RAP IN AREA|
|CAFE CRUISER WALL|
|WASP IN THE WILLOWS AREA|
|7||Zis is KAOS||17|
|9||After the Rapture||23 **|
|10||Battle of the Bulge||22 *|
|11||Dragon Fly||22 **|
|12||Truck stop Party Girl||22 *|
|13||Wasp in the Willows||18 ***||1|
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