UKC

Climbs 100
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 189m a.s.l

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Dave Louis working the steep section of Blood Sweat Steel 23** Rare Earth Buttress. Lassiters. New Nowra - Australia. © Matt Tranter

Crag features

One of the better of the New Nowra crags, offering shady south facing climbing with easy ten minute access. It is not as grand as Simples or TJF but has many execellent compact walls that are clustered with routes. It is climbable in both summer and in winter (In winter when there are no southly or westerly winds blowing.) routes generally have excellent quality rock, but the opening first few meters can be damp and undercut, Overcoming this barrier this can be the crux on the easier routes. Easy access along the base of the crag. There will be quite a concentration of routes that will be mostly 15m to 25m high. Expect about a hundred routes in this new area eventually from grade 10 to grade 30. Some great rock here, as well as some ordinary rock

Approach notes

Really just an extension of the Gold Mine cliff. A five minute flat walk through the bush to get to the top of the cliff, then another five minutes along the cliff top to the short descent gully.

As per the Goldmine..

1. Reset your speedo at the intersection of Turpentine and Braidwood Roads.

2. 1km: Continue on and the 620 sign will be 1km on your right.

3. 1.2km: Take the next dirt road left (Yarran Rd). Drive thru open gate. From this point on it is recommened you have either a 4WD or a car with good clearance. Sections of road can be very muddy and sometimes entirely water covered. A Forester or Rav4 is fine, a low slung sports coupe is not.

4. 3.8km: Turn down the second road on right (Butterbrush Track) it should have a small "fire trail sign"

5. 4.5km: Continue along this road until the road swings around to the left (just before big puddle). Look for the obvious Parking on the side of the road.

Look for the tagged track heading thru the bush to the cliff edge, then turn left and walk accross the top of the cliff to the descent gully. There is a fixed rope to help you get down.

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Climbs at this crag

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