Climbs 59
Rocktype Limestone

Faces SW

Crag features

Monk's Buttress is, for most of the year, a shady, brooding section of cliff that towers over the valley and sees less attention than most of the other crags. There are some great trad lines here and several hard routes which have Clwyd's hallmark of a few pieces of fixed gear including the odd bolt, peg and thread. The rock quality is variable, but many of the climbs are on compact limestone. The far right-hand end of Monk's Buttress is only a stone's throw away from the left end of Dinbren and it is relatively simple to traverse between the two crags.

Approach notes

From Llangollen, follow the road to the junction at 1.8 miles. Continue up the narrow valley road for 0.4 miles to a parking place just before a gated track on the right, as the road drops down into the trees (more parking is available back down the road if the lay-by is full). From the parking, take the gated track for 100m and then follow the wide valley above to the base of the Pinfold escarpment. Cross the stream and follow a narrow path underneath Monkshead Buttress and continue traversing beneath a series of small broken crags until a solid buttress of compact rock is reached. Alternatively approach by a quick walk from the end of Dinbren's leftmost buttresses (useful if parking is full).

Restricted Access


A restriction because of nesting birds is in place on the cliff between the 15th February and 15th July (inclusive). The banned sections are marked by stakes at the crag base and notice boards on the approach path. This restriction is variable and not always applied to the whole crag and may be lifted early.


Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks: (1995)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sir Cathcart Area 
VS 4c 1
3Wriggle Gully
4Black MomentsE4 6b * 
5Mainly for PleasureE2 5b  
6The RebelVS 4c 2
7Sombre MusicE5 6b  
8Second ChanceE1 5b  
9Suspended AnimationE1 5b  
10Grand LaddieVD 2
11Amocco CadizHVS 4c  
12Only a GestureE1 5a  
13TopologyVD 2
14Cotteril's Found Another ToeE5 6c * 
15FašadeE2 5b  
16Pierrepoint Pressure7b+ * 
17The HypeHVS 5a 1
18BerylVS 4c 9
19TamsinE3 6a * 
20The Race is OnE3 6a  
21Catch Me if You CanE5 6a * 
22Sir Cathcart D'EathE3 6a ***6
23Screaming Lord SutchE5 6a ***3
24Another Red LineE4 6a ***2
25Vladimir and OlgaE3 5c  
26IceburnE5 6a * 
27Up the VeilE4 6b  
 Jibber Area 
29The MantillaE3 5c  
30Adam's MistakeE3 5c * 
31Post Mortem of a Football TeamE3 6a * 
32KinsmanHS 4a 5
33Cat in a Rat TrapE3 6a *1
34The EvaderVS 4c *9
35LifeE1 5b **4
36EdgeleyE5 6b ** 
37JibberE1 5b ***12
38Breaking the Reality EffectE3 6a **8
39Ginger CrackHVS 5a  
40MalevolenceHVS 5a 2
41Madonna KebabE1 5a  
42ScatologicalS 1
43Smooth HandsS 4a 1
44DesperadoE5 6a * 
45Little DealHS 4b 2
 The Forgotten Buttresses 
47Cloven HoofE1 5b  
48CodifyVS 4c  
49Memorable StainsE5 6b * 
50GigoloHVS 5b *1
51Thick as a BrickE2 5c *2
52As Monk as a SkunkE1 5b  
53Lightly SaltedE1 5a  
54Coal not DoleE1 5b  
55Soft DelightHVS 5a  
56Just a SprinklingHVS 5a  
57Hard CrustE5 6a * 
58Dusting OverE1 5a  
59Dig DeepHVS 5a  
60Depth ChargeVS 4c  
61Curly BitHVS 5a  
62A Touch of SpiceE4 6a *1

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