Abseil (or boat!) in is needed to get to base of routes or hire a boat from the inland sea to take you to the base of a chimney at the LH end of the north face. Solo up the chimney for about 8m and belay using trad gear. Alternatively abseil diagonally down along the Space Oddity route , initially to reach a wide ledge. Use a bolt at the LH end of this to abseil down clipping in to insitu bolts to reach the previously mentioned chimney.
Malta Rock Climbing: the Comprehensive Guide (2007)
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