Climbs 18
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces S

Dynoing for the crimp. © rockcat

Crag features

This quality and very steep crag sits in a sheltered, leafy valley and is composed of a flinty and solid natural limestone with good friction. Being south facing it is sheltered from the sun by the tree foliage in summer and in winter catches the sun. It has considerable immunity from rain.
Please take note of and abide by the access notes below.

Approach notes

This crag is now subject to a seasonal restriction to protect the interests of the landowner and leaseholder, in particular the rearing of birds (pheasants) at the base of the crag. Please adhere to this restriction and do not climb here between September 29th and February 1st inclusive.

In addition from June 22nd to Sept 28th, climbing restricted to 1 hour after sunrise, and all climbers to have vacated the crag 90 minutes before sunset.

Climbing here is only allowed with the kind permission of the landowner and the shooting syndicate who lease the site as a location for rearing and shooting game birds. Access should only be as described in the current version of the A55 Sports - Climbs guidebook, unless indicated otherwise by on site signs. Strictly no dogs allowed at any time.

The crag is on private land and there is not right of access but the farmer at nearby Ty Newydd farm (on the left of the A5151 towards Trelawnyd), Mr Jones, has been most amenable and has very kindly agreed to permit climbing so long as the access stipulation, car parking and approach designated is used.

1. No access to the crag from 29th September to 1st February inclusive (shooting days).

2. Follow the agreed approach route - from the 'Dyserth to Prestatyn walkway' car park, follow the walkway towards Prestatyn to a bridge. Go right before the bridge, up some steps then make your way through two kissing gates, across a footbridge to a track - turn left and follow to a fence. Turn right and follow this fence to another fence surrounding a cultivated area, follow this downhill then leftwards until you get to a gate - go through this into a small wooded valley and the crag should appear magnificently on your left.

3. No dogs at any time and no exceptions.

Cool little crag. The short routes, high quality compact limestone and the woodland setting all combine to to make this place reminiscent of the Frankenjura.
stp - 12/Sep/15
Please check out the new climbing restrictions before climbing here:
Glyn Davidson - 12/Aug/13
I left my black Casio watch here last night, if anyone picks it up please message me! Thanks
Mattlamb90 - 10/Jul/13
The Lower-offs have been stolen from the routes: Chill Out Chilly T / Vlad the Implier AS of 12/10/12 they have not been replaced
rockcat - 12/Oct/12
Quality year round venue. Newer climbs need adding to this page now though.
tom290483 - 24/Feb/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Upper Crag 
2Wild Garlic6b 22
3Jumbo loving
7c *1
7c+ * 
 Main crag 
6Madasafish (left)5a 34
7Madasafish (right)6b 49
15Chilly Tea
6c *30
16Vlad the Implier6c 28
17Ivan the responsible
6b+ **78
18Turtles progress
7a *19
19Black Wednesday
7a+ **38
20Shakin Stevens
7a *7

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