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These details were last updated on 31/Mar/2012

Mt Coudon, Main Crag

Var, FRANCE

Climbs 133 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 406m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
A beautifully situated south facing crag overlooking eastern Toulon. It is essentially a continuation of another crag, Baudouvin. It has a number of sectors and a wide range of grades. Sector Rose Marie, the left-most sector has good quality mainly single pitch routes from F5 to F7a. To its right, Sector Grandes Voies has a number of attractive multi-pitch routes between 4+ and 6b+ and up to 75m in length. A group of small sectors adjacent to the descent route and below the hang-glider launch pad have a collction of mainly easier routes, some multi pitch but mainly shorter. The routes right of Sector les Des, starting with Sector Pepsi Max contain most of the harder routes on the crag, though with some easier offerings scattered amongst them. Some of these sectors may be reached with advantage by a descent route starting from a higher car park.

Guidebooks
France : Côte d'Azur (2010), Escalades Autour De Toulon

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 SECTOR ROSE MARIE  
2Jardin des libellules5 ***1
3Nid des cailles5 ***1
4Finochia6a+ * 
5Paradisiac6a+ ***1
6La "x"5+ ** 
7Noctambule6a *** 
8Microcosmos6b+ *** 
9Shiva5+ *** 
10Parvati5+ ** 
11Mort subite6b+ * 
12L'obscure6c ** 
13Rose Marie6a *** 
14Desperados7a *** 
15Desire6b+ *** 
16L'insoumise6a+ *** 
17Petit bide6b+ ** 
18Les kai kai6b+ ** 
19La coquine6b+ * 
 SECTOR GRANDES VOIES  
21Keops6a+ ** 
22Les trois gouttes d'h2o5+ ***1
23La salle de bains5+ ***1
24La gelule5+ **1
25Layenda6a **1
26Colle qui peut5+ *** 
27La saint maclou5+ *** 
28Touche pas a mon pof6b+ *** 
29La chene4+  
30Melodie aerienne6a *** 
31Rock autopsie6b ** 
32Cacophonie6a * 
33La seule escalade5+ ** 
 SECTOR LA BOELY  
35Les OliviersF5 * 
36La Boely5 ** 
37Le grand toit5+ *** 
 SECTOR BAL A BOUGIVAL  
39Bal a bougival6a+ *** 
40Armaguedon6a ** 
41Le voleur de bagdad5 *** 
 SECTOR LE PETIT SURPLOMB  
 Climb nameGradex
43Ballade pour agnes4+ *5
44Les bidasses em folie4+ *4
45Banana way4 *3
46Le petit surplomb5 **5
47Carbone 142  
 SECTOR LES DES  
49Cacahuete a roulettes2 2
50D03+ 1
51Mongolita3 **4
52D13+ **5
53D24 *5
54D34 *5
55D45 *2
56D55 **2
57D65 **1
58D75+ **1
59D86a+ **1
60D96b **1
61Pollux6a ** 
62Colargol6a ***1
63La fee railleuse6a ***1
64La belle aux bras daubants6c *** 
 CURLING  
66Marjorade6a+ ***1
67Pipsou-Mimsou4 ** 
68Lauratounette6b **1
69Souffre douceur7a+ **1
 CANICULE  
71Canicule7a+ ***1
7237.2 Le Matin7a ***1
73Coucher de soleil6c+ ***1
74On se calme6c **1
75Patience dans l'Azur6b+ **2
 FEELING  
77A bout de souffle6a ***2
78Grisoulite6b 1
79La doume6a ***1
80Dominette6a ***2
 BALANCOIRE  
82Chipie Bulle6c **1
83Voie sans nom7a+ ***1
84L'as de club qui beche ton coeur, diamant line *5+ **1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Access notes
The crag is reached (from above) by the road to the summit of Mount Coudon (often closed when there is a high fire risk, i.e. dry windy conditions). The road (D446) begins at the col halfway between the settlements of La Valette du Var and Dardennes (D46). After several twisting kms of ascent (during which the car park for Baudouvin is passed) the road levels out then climbs again towards the summit. Park near the prominent hairpin (left hand bend) as the last ascent starts. Walk 50 metres to the parapente launch pad. Just before the pad a scramble with occasional blue spots and the odd bolt is found which leads down to Sectors Les Des and Petit Surplomb.

Classifieds
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