The northerly aspect of the woods in this part of Luxulyan Valley provides a more open atmosphere - akin to a poor man's Bovey Woods - than the heavily wooded slopes on the other side of the valley. The ground is also less steep than opposing slopes and landings are generally good. Like elsewhere in Luxulyan, the topsoil is loose however, so erosion is a problem and mats are advised.
Currently the area has one route and a nice bouldering circuit in the VB-V3 range, with a couple of highballs and room for more development.
Problems are for the most part clean, although some topouts are a bit vegetated.
From Upper - Far Left area, the boulders are described clockwise (looking in) across the upper tier from left to right, then right to left across the lower tier. The Diamond and Brutus areas are lower down and are the first areas to be encountered on the approach.
Access is on public land and is allowed. To get to the rocks. From the A390, take the Pont Mill turning, about half a mile north east of the level crossing at St Blazey. From Pont Mill car park, walk along the westbound track, continuing past the right hand turn (which leads to Carmear Rock) and pass under the viaduct. After about quarter of a mile, the path crosses the river, 20 yards further on turn left and double back up the slope trending left and up a steep muddy bike track. Join another larger track heading east for a short distance until either the low overhang of Brutus, or some old north shore mountain biking tracks can be seen above. The majority of the problems lie directly above where the woods border the field. All the problems are described in a clockwise fashion in relation to the Far Left - Upper area (deLUXe boyz, BAKDAFUKUP etc, see photo) in the 'Crag Features' section of this page.
Luxulyan Valley Bouldering and New Routes (2014), Cheesewring & South East Cornwall: A Climbers' Guide (2012)
|UPPER - FAR LEFT|
|2||deLUXe boyz||V1 **||2|
|THE UNDISCOVERED COUNTRY|
|5||The Far Future||VB||2|
|6||The Undiscovered Country||V1 **||3|
|7||Crystal Method||V5 x **||1|
|8||Cannily Cannily||V1 **||2|
|9||Bonnie L'al Bairnikie||V0||1|
|UPPER - CENTRAL|
|12||Good Days||V3 6a **||3|
|UPPER - FAR RIGHT|
|14||St Piran's Day||V0||2|
|15||Jamie's Inside Route||V1||2|
|16||Rebecca's World||S 4a||2|
|ONE MOVE WONDER AREA|
|18||Left Boulder Overhang||V1||1|
|19||Left Boulder Right Wall||V0||1|
|20||Right Boulder Slab||V0+||1|
|LOWER - FAR RIGHT|
|LOWER - CENTRAL|
|24||Right Angle Arete||V0||2|
|25||An Attempt To Tip The Scales||f6A+ **||2|
|LOWER - FAR LEFT|
|28||Dead Tree Arete||V0||2|
|30||Diamond - Left Arete||V0||1|
|31||Diamond - Flakes||V0||1|
|32||Diamond - Right Arete||V0||1|
|34||Brutus||V3 6a *||2|
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