Climbs 24
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 94m a.s.l
Faces N

Jamie on FA of deLUXe boyz © Tom Last

Crag features

The northerly aspect of the woods in this part of Luxulyan Valley provides a more open atmosphere - akin to a poor man's Bovey Woods - than the heavily wooded slopes on the other side of the valley. The ground is also less steep than opposing slopes and landings are generally good. Like elsewhere in Luxulyan, the topsoil is loose however, so erosion is a problem and mats are advised.

Currently the area has one route and a nice bouldering circuit in the VB-V3 range, with a couple of highballs and room for more development.

Problems are for the most part clean, although some topouts are a bit vegetated.

From Upper - Far Left area, the boulders are described clockwise (looking in) across the upper tier from left to right, then right to left across the lower tier. The Diamond and Brutus areas are lower down and are the first areas to be encountered on the approach.

Approach notes

Access is on public land and is allowed. To get to the rocks. From the A390, take the Pont Mill turning, about half a mile north east of the level crossing at St Blazey. From Pont Mill car park, walk along the westbound track, continuing past the right hand turn (which leads to Carmear Rock) and pass under the viaduct. After about quarter of a mile, the path crosses the river, 20 yards further on turn left and double back up the slope trending left and up a steep muddy bike track. Join another larger track heading east for a short distance until either the low overhang of Brutus, or some old north shore mountain biking tracks can be seen above. The majority of the problems lie directly above where the woods border the field. All the problems are described in a clockwise fashion in relation to the Far Left - Upper area (deLUXe boyz, BAKDAFUKUP etc, see photo) in the 'Crag Features' section of this page.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Upper - Far Left 
2deLUXe boyzf5 **2
 The Undiscovered Country 
5The Far Futuref3 2
6The Undiscovered Countryf5 **3
7Crystal Methodf6C **1
8Cannily Cannilyf5 **2
9Bonnie L'al Bairnikief4 1
 Upper - Central 
11Curving Aretef5 1
12Good Daysf6A **3
 Upper - Far Right 
14St Piran's Dayf4 2
15Jamie's Inside Routef5 2
16Rebecca's WorldS 4a 3
 One Move Wonder Area 
18Left Boulder Overhangf5 1
19Left Boulder Right Wallf4 1
20Right Boulder Slabf4+ 1
 Lower - Far Right 
22Blunt Aretef4+ 1
 Lower - Central 
24Right Angle Aretef4 2
25An Attempt To Tip The Scalesf6A+ **2
26Slab Flakesf4 2
 Lower - Far Left 
28Dead Tree Aretef4 2
 Diamond Block 
30Diamond - Left Arete
f4 1
31Diamond - Flakes
f4 1
32Diamond - Right Arete
f4 1
34Brutusf6A *2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Tom Last