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These details were last updated on 04/Jul/2014

Craig yr Eglwys

Ceredigion, WALES

Climbs 41 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 480m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Craig yr Eglwys, with its distinctive curved syncline, is composed of hard Silurian sandstone and lies just to the north east the Hengwmannedd (Pumlumon) bouldering area. This is a good little crag which offers a number of short, action-packed trad routes on great rock. The routes range from D - E5.

Although the various buttresses/ tiers are rather broken and separated by some vegetated and broken rock, all the routes are worthwhile. The crag has a pleasant and open aspect, receiving all of the available sunshine from mid-morning and onwards. It dries quite quickly after rain, does not suffer from any significant seepage and the friction is excellent. Climbing is possible here throughout the year and the crag is a good option for dry/ sunny winter days.

Doug Kerr's excellent Craig yr Eglwys mini-guide is available to download from here:

This crag, and others in the area, will be fully featured in the Elenydd section of the forthcoming Climbers' Club Mid Wales guide book. For copyright reasons, more detailed information regarding Craig yr Eglwys and other crags and climbing in the area will not be added until publication of the new guide.

Access notes
Craig yr Eglwys (SN 804894) is approximately one and a half miles to the north east of the summit of Pen Pumlumon Fawr and is on CROW land with no access restrictions. This crag is located at the more accessible, northern end, of Cwm Gwerin and is very close to the well documented Hengwmannedd (Pumlumon) bouldering area.

Approach from Aberystwyth/Llangurig:

Leave the A44 at Ponterwyd following the sign for Nant y Moch reservoir. Follow this road for 3.6 miles to a right turn (away from the Dam) along the eastern edge of the reservoir to reach Maesnant, OS reference SN 774881. At this point the tarmac road turns into an unsurfaced, very rocky track which is totally unsuitable for cars. Park here, taking care not to block the gates. It is also possible to reach this point from Talybont on the A487 (the Machynlleth to Aberystwyth road).

Pass through the right hand gate and follow the rough track for 1 mile. Then, just beyond a ruined farmhouse on the left, leave the track, cross a stream and head upriver into the Hengwm valley past a small plantation of conifers on the right. The bouldering area and Craig yr Eglwys are now visible in the distance. Follow the vague path along the south bank of the Afon Hengwm for 1 mile to reach the ruined farmhouse of Hengwmannedd with the bouldering area just beyond at SN 797893. This approach takes 45 minutes from the car. The second section of path is invariably boggy and wellington boots are recommended to keep both feet and spirits dry. An alternative and sometimes drier approach is to follow the bridleway path on the north side of the Afon Hengwm, accessed by means of a footbridge near the small conifer plantation. This alternative approach necessitates re-crossing the Afon Hengwm near to Hengwnannedd ruin. This may be difficult (or impossible) if the river is in a medium or higher flow.

Craig yr Eglwys is easily reached from the bouldering area by crossing the Afon Gwerin before striking directly up the hillside/scree to the section of crag of your choice. Allow approximately 20 minutes from the bouldering area.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

2.9mm rain
Mainly cloudy
19 °C
19 kph

8.5mm rain
17 °C
20 kph

7.7mm rain
Mainly cloudy
15 °C
17 kph

0.0mm rain
15 °C
14 kph

0.6mm rain
Mainly cloudy
18 °C
15 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Odd One OutHS 4b 4
2Doctor Out Of BourbonsE2 6a  
3Jockey Full Of BourbonE3 6a *2
4A Question Of SportVS 4c **5
5One Hundred Years Of SolitudeE3 6a * 
6The Weakest LinkS 4a 2
7Play Your Cards RightHS 4b  
8WipeoutVS 4c  
9Celebrity SquaresHS 4b * 
10University ChallengeHVS 5b **2
11Fingers On The BuzzersE5 6b * 
12Take Your PickHS 4b 1
13The Golden ShotHS 4b 1
14BullseyeHVS 4c *1
15Sure Not To See A SoulE3 6b * 
16BlockbustersVS 4c *1
17Top Of The FormD 3
18It's A KnockoutHVS 5b  
19Bognor Or BustS 4b 2
20Emerge The BogmonstersE3 6a  
213-2-1VD 2
 Climb nameGradex
22CatchphraseVD 3
23Call My BluffHVS 5b *1
24Just A MinuteHVS 5a **3
25PointlessHS 4b  
26The Cryptic FactorHVS 5a * 
27Take It Or Leave ItVD 3
28The ShardHVS 4c  
29CountdownE3 5c ** 
30Big BreakVS 4c * 
31Double JeopardyE4 6a * 
32JeopardyE3 5c ** 
33Through The KeyholeVD  
34Ask The FamilyVS 4b 2
36Twenty QuestionsVD  
37The Generation GameVS 4c 1
38Treasure HuntE2 5b *3
39You Bet!S  
40Take Me OutHVS 5b * 
41Winter WipeoutD  
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