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Craig yr EglwysCeredigion, WALES
Climbs 41 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 480m a.s.l – Faces S
Although the various buttresses/ tiers are rather broken and separated by some vegetated and broken rock, all the routes are worthwhile. The crag has a pleasant and open aspect, receiving all of the available sunshine from mid-morning and onwards. It dries quite quickly after rain, does not suffer from any significant seepage and the friction is excellent. Climbing is possible here throughout the year and the crag is a good option for dry/ sunny winter days.
Doug Kerr's excellent Craig yr Eglwys mini-guide is available to download from here: http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/shop/books/guidebook-downloads/
This crag, and others in the area, will be fully featured in the Elenydd section of the forthcoming Climbers' Club Mid Wales guide book. For copyright reasons, more detailed information regarding Craig yr Eglwys and other crags and climbing in the area will not be added until publication of the new guide.
Approach from Aberystwyth/Llangurig:
Leave the A44 at Ponterwyd following the sign for Nant y Moch reservoir. Follow this road for 3.6 miles to a right turn (away from the Dam) along the eastern edge of the reservoir to reach Maesnant, OS reference SN 774881. At this point the tarmac road turns into an unsurfaced, very rocky track which is totally unsuitable for cars. Park here, taking care not to block the gates. It is also possible to reach this point from Talybont on the A487 (the Machynlleth to Aberystwyth road).
Pass through the right hand gate and follow the rough track for 1 mile. Then, just beyond a ruined farmhouse on the left, leave the track, cross a stream and head upriver into the Hengwm valley past a small plantation of conifers on the right. The bouldering area and Craig yr Eglwys are now visible in the distance. Follow the vague path along the south bank of the Afon Hengwm for 1 mile to reach the ruined farmhouse of Hengwmannedd with the bouldering area just beyond at SN 797893. This approach takes 45 minutes from the car. The second section of path is invariably boggy and wellington boots are recommended to keep both feet and spirits dry. An alternative and sometimes drier approach is to follow the bridleway path on the north side of the Afon Hengwm, accessed by means of a footbridge near the small conifer plantation. This alternative approach necessitates re-crossing the Afon Hengwm near to Hengwnannedd ruin. This may be difficult (or impossible) if the river is in a medium or higher flow.
Craig yr Eglwys is easily reached from the bouldering area by crossing the Afon Gwerin before striking directly up the hillside/scree to the section of crag of your choice. Allow approximately 20 minutes from the bouldering area.
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