Mostly climbing from ledges just above the sea.the Rock is characterised by many good corner cracks separated by narrow prow areas usually no more than a few metres wide.
There is the NT car park for Dunseverick Castle. From here take the coastal path East around toward Port Braddan for 5 minutes passing a short quarried area on the right. 50m after a gap in the fence, a sea stack a few metres detached from the cliff on the left can be seen. This is the beginning of the harder section of cliff that runs for 50m Eastwards before turning into the small bay. For this West Crag access is by abseil down between the stack and the mainland. To get to the East Crag descend into the little amphitheatre.
|2||Hook the Nook||HS 4b||2|
|3||Molten Music||HS 4a||1|
|4||Breezy Lava||VS 4b||1|
|5||Seagull Seize||HS 4b||1|
|7||Causeway||VS 4b *||3|
|8||Crafty Yachting||S 4a *||3|
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|I enjoy climbing here but be warned the tops can be friable. There is an online comprehensive guide on the Colmcille Climbers website.|
Alfie Conn - 02/Mar/13