Climbs 69 – Rocktype Basalt – Altitude 12m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Mostly climbing from ledges just above the sea.the Rock is characterised by many good corner cracks separated by narrow prow areas usually no more than a few metres wide.

Approach notes
There is the NT car park for Dunseverick Castle. From here take the coastal path East around toward Port Braddan for 5 minutes passing a short quarried area on the right. 50m after a gap in the fence, a sea stack a few metres detached from the cliff on the left can be seen. This is the beginning of the harder section of cliff that runs for 50m Eastwards before turning into the small bay. For this West Crag access is by abseil down between the stack and the mainland. To get to the East Crag descend into the little amphitheatre.

Colmcille Climbers online GuideBook

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1CentreVD 1
2Bruces SpiderVS 4c 1
3Right BranchVD *2
4Fissure ManVD 1
5ATMVS 4b 1
6Craic na PhobiaS 4a 1
7Fishermans FriendVD 5b 1
8Second HandVD 4a 1
9Hook the NookHS 4b 2
10Molten MusicHS 4a 2
11Breezy LavaVS 4b 2
12Seagull SeizeHS 4b 1
13GrooverHS 4b 1
14CausewayVS 4b *3
15Crafty YachtingS 4a *3
16Wind UpVD 2
17Battlement StanceVD 1
18CraicslovaVD 2
19Regulation RockHS 1
20Prog RockHVS 5a 2
21Period Ant BitesHVS 5b *1
22Spring Sea TidesS **4
23Summer Ma CoolHVS 5a **1
24Black and TanVS 5a 1
25Second ThoughtsHS 4b 1
26One For the RoadS 2
27Rule BritanniaVS 4b 2
28Motor Bikes are DeathHVS 5b 1
29Dubious DecisionsHVS 5a **1
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I enjoy climbing here but be warned the tops can be friable. There is an online comprehensive guide on the Colmcille Climbers website.
Alfie Conn - 02/Mar/13