Earnsheugh

Climbs 32 – Rocktype Schist – Altitude 40m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Earnsheugh offers some of the most gob-smacking seacliff climbing in Scotland, with loads of exposure on routes that are usually 2 or 3 pitches in length. Sheltered, but tends to weep.

"Must do" routes: Thugosaurus (E5 5b,6a,6a), Prehistoric Monster (E5 5b,6a,5b), Death Cap (E1 5a,5a), Necromancer (E5 5c,6a,5b),

Pterodactyl (E2 5a,5b,4c), Bat's Belfry (E2 5c,5c,5b).

Access notes
Non-tidal, and may be one of the few climbable crags on the coast in high seas.

The base of the crag can be reached by scrambling, but it is more common to abseil.

Guidebooks
North East Outcrops (2003),
Out of print: North East Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Batty BatHVS 5a
2Hissing SidHVS 5a *
3Earnsheugh RidgeE1 5a **
4The Lost WorldHVS 5a *
5Mysterious JourneyE1 5b *
6Tyrannosaurus WrecksE4 6a *
7IchthyosaurusE5 6a *
8Death Rattle RoofsE4 6a **
9CthuluE5 6a *
10Grim SpectreE6 6b *
11ThugosaurusE5 6a ***
12Thugosaurus DirectE5 6a **
13Prehistoric MonsterE5 6a ***
14Grimly FiendishE4 6a *
15Death CapE1 5a ***
16NecromancerE5 6a ***
17Weird SisterE3 5c **
18Cruel MistressE5 6b **
19PterodactylE2 5b ***
20Bats' BelfryE2 5c ***
21Blinkered BatE3 5c *
22CloistersVS 4c **
23Cloisters Direct StartHVS 5a
24Whispers and MoansE2 5b
25Cloisters Right-HandVS 4c *
26Bugs' BoogieE2 5b *
27BuggerooE2 6a *
28Ugly Bugs BallVS 4c **
29Rattus NorvegicusHVS 5a
30Thunderbolt CrackHS
31The Descent RouteVD
32StratosfearE2 5c **
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