Boltsheugh

Climbs 93 – Rocktype Schist – Altitude ? – Faces E

Crag features

Both Laurel and Hardy are now rebolted. Tim Rankin has added 3 short new routes to the buttress of fine rock  between between Down Under and Morrison's Missed Adventure. From left to right the grades are 6c, 7a and 6b. It is worth noting that the routes lefty of Laurel and Hardy have not been rebolted but were much younger routes.

 

***WARNING - BOLTS HAVE RECENTLY FAILED COMPLETELY ON THE ROUTES 'LAUREL' AND 'HARDY' AND LOOK SUSPECT ON OTHERS. PLEASE BE VERY CAREFUL CLIMBING THE SPORT ROUTES AT PRESENT UNLESS YOU'VE INSPECTED AND ARE COMPETENT TO JUDGE THE CONDITION OF THE REMAINING BOLTS 21/6/13 ***


The original Aberdeen sport climbing crag has since had some trad routes added on walls to the north and south of the bolts.


The sports climbs tend to be short and vicious. The trad climbs tend to be on adventurous rock.

 

Approach notes

Mostly non-tidal, though the routes at the south end of the headland are affected

Guidebooks
7aMax Scottish Sport - A Guide to Climbs from 2-7a+ (2015), North East Outcrops (2003),
Out of print: 7aMax Scottish Sport - A Selected Guide (2012), North East Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 BOLTSHEUGH LOWER NORTH  
2BashfulVS 5a 2
3Snow WhiteHVS 5c 1
4BloodthirstyE2 6b * 
5Anaemic GrooveS 2
6Waiting for a DeliveryD 2
7Appeal for SanityVS 4b 2
8A Wafer Thin Croisant for SezVS 4c 1
9Just Another Quaint RouteE1 5a 1
 BOLTSHEUGH UPPER - RIGHT SIDE  
11Deadheads7b *21
12Aches in Provence6b+ *44
13Aches in Provence (sit start)6c 40
14Crossroads6a+ 57
15Little Creatures6c 34
16Traverse of the Cods7a 20
17The Enemy WithinHVS 5b **86
18Traffic Light AreteS 4a 10
 BOLTSHEUGH UPPER - LEFT SIDE  
20The Dregs6a 37
21Automatic6c+ 24
22The Dark Side6c+ *47
23Mo6a+ 70
24Welly Boot CrackVS 4c 8
25Eany5c 84
26Meaney5c 87
 BOLTSHEUGH LOWER SOUTH  
28Much Ado About NothingE3 5b 1
29Green Puddle CornerS 24
30Blow OutE1 5b 12
31Three RoofsE3 5c *1
32Ramp OnVD 9
33Trouble Monkey7a+ *13
34Trouble Monkey variation6b+ **21
35Cheeky Madam6b+ *29
36Snap, Crackle and DropHVS 4c 3
37Five by FiveE2 5c 12
38Drop ZoneHVS 4c 4
39Runny NoseHVS 5a 2
40Wrist SlasherS 6
41Laurel6a *40
42Hardy6a+ *26
43The League of Whingers6b+ *23
44Rankin's Rain Games6b **24
45Morrison's Missed Adventure7a **14
46Amateur Head JammingE1 5a 3
47Bum Steer6b  
48Dinnky-di7a  
49Dunny Rat6c  
50Out Back6b 3
51Down Under6c **3
52Go West6b+ *2
53GullywasherD 2
54Fight the Good FightVS 4b 5
55Fear ItselfE1 5a 6
56Nail in the CoffinE3 5c 3
57Lie To MeE1 5c 1
58Scraping the BarrelE3 6a *1
 BOULDERING - UPPER  
60The Traversef7A **46
61The Wallf5 52
62Sin Aretef6B 4
63The Corner Crackf6A 42
64Aretef6A *66
65Johnny's Danglerf6C **69
66Johnny's Extended Danglerf6B+ **5
67Deadheads Directf7B ***26
68Deadheads Direct Directf7B 3
69Raise Your Harpoonf7A+ **5
70The Overhangf6A *49
71The Overhang Dynof6A 11
72Overhang Eliminatef6C+ **20
73Two Cuts Above (Eliminate)f6C 4
74The Enemy Withinf4 *11
75The Lipf6B+ *7
 BOULDERING - LOWER  
 FLOESTONE WALL  
78The Floestone Wallf7A *4
79Slap The Bitch Upf6C 4
80Flattiesf6B+ 8
81Slopey Slapperf6C+ 6
82Porty manf7A+  
 CAVE WALL  
84Top breakf5 5
85Break 2f5+ 6a 3
86Break 3f6B 2
87Low breakf6C 1
88The Cave Traversef5+ *4
89Ali's Eliminatef7A+ **3
90Pocket, Slopey Crimpf6C 9
91The Knowledgef7C **1
92Sidepullf6C+ 9
93The Man from Ellonf7B **1
94Crimpf6C 7
95Crimp with sidepullf6B+ 3
96The Shieldf7A 3
97The Throwf6B 10
 ELIMINATE WALL  
99Easy Eliminatef6A+ 15
100Crimpsf6B+ 10
101Two Peachesf7A *21
102Quartz Eliminatef7B+ **2
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Stuart S

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Looks like a crucial crimp from Deadheads has come off (small left hand crimp in crack on headwall) - Problem is now significantly harder
Hamfunk - 06/Sep/14
Climbed at Boltsheugh Lower last night. 1 bolt broke on me (Hardy) and there is another loose one (Laurel??) I have the evidence of the broken one!!
eddiealaszewski - 20/Jun/13
After the weekend storms, the boulder jumble at the right-side (north) of the Upper section has been re-jumbled. Some serious lumps of rocks here, all seem to be stable, but shows the incredible power in the waves, especially as it is quite high up. The approach path has also taken a beating, still quite safe but some parts are noticably undercut, "be careful out there".
GrahamJ - 19/Dec/12