Climbs 101
Rocktype Schist

Faces E

Dan soloing © Dan Richardson

Crag features

Update Sept 16.  Upper Boltsheugh now fully rebolted by Tim Rankin, with some bolts repositioned to improve safety and a couple of new lines added (left of Enemy Within and adjacent to Crossroads).

 

Both Laurel and Hardy are now rebolted. Tim Rankin has added 3 short new routes to the buttress of fine rock  between between Down Under and Morrison's Missed Adventure. From left to right the grades are 6c, 7a and 6b. It is worth noting that the routes lefty of Laurel and Hardy have not been rebolted but were much younger routes.



The original Aberdeen sport climbing crag has since had some trad routes added on walls to the north and south of the bolts.

The sports climbs tend to be short and vicious. The trad climbs tend to be on adventurous rock.

 

Approach notes

Mostly non-tidal, though the routes at the south end of the headland are affected

Looks like a crucial crimp from Deadheads has come off (small left hand crimp in crack on headwall) - Problem is now significantly harder
Hamfunk - 06/Sep/14
Climbed at Boltsheugh Lower last night. 1 bolt broke on me (Hardy) and there is another loose one (Laurel??) I have the evidence of the broken one!!
eddiealaszewski - 20/Jun/13
After the weekend storms, the boulder jumble at the right-side (north) of the Upper section has been re-jumbled. Some serious lumps of rocks here, all seem to be stable, but shows the incredible power in the waves, especially as it is quite high up. The approach path has also taken a beating, still quite safe but some parts are noticably undercut, "be careful out there".
GrahamJ - 19/Dec/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Boltsheugh Lower North 
2Bashful
-
VS 5a 2
3Snow White
-
HVS 5c 1
4Bloodthirsty
-
E2 6b * 
5Anaemic Groove
-
S 2
6Waiting for a Delivery
-
D 2
7Appeal for Sanity
-
VS 4b 2
8A Wafer Thin Croisant for Sez
-
VS 4c 1
9Just Another Quaint Route
-
E1 5a 1
 Boltsheugh Upper - Right Side 
11Deadheads
-
7b *21
12Aches in Provence6b+ *45
13Aches in Provence (sit start)
-
6c 43
14Crossroads
-
6a+ 66
15Little Creatures
-
6c 38
16Traverse of the Cods
-
7a 22
17The Enemy Within
-
HVS 5b **102
18Traffic Light AreteS 4a 11
 Boltsheugh Upper - Left Side 
20The Dregs
-
6a 39
21Automatic
-
6c+ 24
22The Dark Side
-
6c+ *51
23Mo
-
6a+ 77
24Welly Boot Crack
-
VS 4c 9
25Eany
-
5c 92
26Meaney
-
5c 100
 Boltsheugh Lower South 
28Much Ado About NothingE3 5b 1
29Green Puddle Corner
-
S 25
30Blow Out
-
E1 5b 13
31Three RoofsE3 5c *1
32Ramp On
-
VD 10
33Trouble Monkey7a+ *13
34Trouble Monkey variation6b+ **21
35Cheeky Madam
-
6b+ *33
36Snap, Crackle and Drop
-
HVS 4c 3
37Five by Five
-
E2 5c 13
38Drop Zone
-
HVS 4c 4
39Runny Nose
-
HVS 5a 2
40Wrist Slasher
-
S 6
41Laurel
-
6a *50
42Hardy
-
6a+ *32
43The League of Whingers
-
6b+ *28
44Rankin's Rain Games
-
6b **28
45Morrison's Missed Adventure
-
7a **17
46Amateur Head Jamming
-
E1 5a 2
47Bum Steer6b 1
48Dinnky-di7a 1
49Dunny Rat6c 2
50Out Back
-
6b 3
51Down Under
-
6c **3
52Go West
-
6b+ *4
53Gullywasher
-
D 3
54Fight the Good Fight
-
VS 4b 6
55Fear Itself
-
E1 5a 6
56Nail in the Coffin
-
E3 5c 4
57Lie To Me
-
E1 5c 2
 Peedie Inlet 
59Scraping the BarrelE3 6a *1
60Pedie Traverse
-
VS 4b *1
61Peerie Corner5a *1
62Nert Wa6a *1
63Muckle Span6b+ **1
64Slykees and Weet Feeties6b *1
65Muckle Span/Slykees and Weet Feeties Link7a **1
66A Bit Nippit
-
6a  
 Bouldering - Upper 
68The Traverse
-
f7A **52
69The Wall
-
f5 63
70Sin Aretef6B 6
71The Corner Crack
-
f6A 49
72Arete
-
f6A *79
73Johnny's Dangler
-
f6C **76
74Johnny's Extended Danglerf6B+ **5
75Deadheads Direct
-
f7B ***27
76Deadheads Direct Directf7B 3
77Raise Your Harpoonf7A+ **5
78The Overhang
-
f6A *57
79The Overhang Dynof6A 12
80Overhang Eliminatef6C+ **21
81Two Cuts Above (Eliminate)f6C 4
82The Enemy Within
-
f4 *13
83The Lip
-
f6B+ *10
 Bouldering - Lower 
 Floestone Wall 
86The Floestone Wall
-
f7A *5
87Slap The Bitch Upf6C 5
88Flattiesf6B+ 10
89Slopey Slapperf6C+ 6
90Porty manf7A+  
 Cave Wall 
92Top breakf5 9
93Break 2f5+ 7
94Break 3f6B 7
95Low breakf6C 4
96The Cave Traverse
-
f5+ *4
97Ali's Eliminate
-
f7A+ **4
98Pocket, Slopey Crimpf6C 12
99The Knowledgef7C **1
100Sidepullf6C+ 11
101The Man from Ellonf7B **1
102Crimpf6C 10
103Crimp with sidepullf6B+ 5
104The Shieldf7A 3
105The Throwf6B 17
106The Lowdownf6B+ *1
 Eliminate Wall 
108Easy Eliminatef6A+ 16
109Crimpsf6B+ 11
110Two Peachesf7A *24
111Quartz Eliminatef7B+ **2

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