Boltsheugh

Climbs 90 – Rocktype Schist – Altitude ? – Faces E

Crag features
***WARNING - BOLTS HAVE RECENTLY FAILED COMPLETELY ON THE ROUTES 'LAUREL' AND 'HARDY' AND LOOK SUSPECT ON OTHERS. PLEASE BE VERY CAREFUL CLIMBING THE SPORT ROUTES AT PRESENT UNLESS YOU'VE INSPECTED AND ARE COMPETENT TO JUDGE THE CONDITION OF THE REMAINING BOLTS 21/6/13 ***

The original Aberdeen sport climbing crag has since had some trad routes added on walls to the north and south of the bolts.

The sports climbs tend to be short and vicious. The trad climbs tend to be on adventurous rock.

Access notes
Mostly non-tidal, though the routes at the south end of the headland are affected

Guidebooks
7aMax Scottish Sport - A Selected Guide (2012), North East Outcrops (2003),
Out of print: North East Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 BOLTSHEUGH LOWER NORTH 
2BashfulVS 5a
3Snow WhiteHVS 5c
4BloodthirstyE2 6b *
5Anaemic GrooveS
6Waiting for a DeliveryD
7Appeal for SanityVS 4b
8A Wafer Thin Croisant for SezVS 4c
9Just Another Quaint RouteE1 5a
 BOLTSHEUGH UPPER - RIGHT SIDE 
11Deadheads7b *
12Aches in Provence6b+ *
13Aches in Provence (sit start)6c
14Crossroads6a+
15Little Creatures6c
16Traverse of the Cods7a
17The Enemy WithinHVS 5b **
18Traffic Light AreteS 4a
 BOLTSHEUGH UPPER - LEFT SIDE 
20The Dregs6a
21Automatic6c+
22The Dark Side6c+ *
23Mo6a+
24Welly Boot CrackVS 4c
25Eany5c
26Meaney5c
 BOLTSHEUGH LOWER SOUTH 
28Much Ado About NothingE3 5b
29Green Puddle CornerS
30Blow OutE1 5b
31Three RoofsE3 5c *
32Ramp OnVD
33Trouble Monkey7a+ *
34Trouble Monkey variation6b+ **
35Cheeky Madam6b+ *
36Snap, Crackle and DropHVS 4c
37Five by FiveE2 5c
38Drop ZoneHVS 4c
39Runny NoseHVS 5a
40Wrist SlasherS
41Laurel6a *
42Hardy6a+ *
43The League of Whingers6b+ *
44Rankin's Rain Games6b **
45Morrison's Missed Adventure7a **
46Amateur Head JammingE1 5a
47Out Back6b
48Down Under6c **
49Go West6b+ *
50GullywasherD
51Fight the Good FightVS 4b
52Fear ItselfE1 5a
53Nail in the CoffinE3 5c
54Lie To MeE1 5c
55Scraping the BarrelE3 6a *
 BOULDERING - UPPER 
57The Traversef7A **
58The Wallf5
59Sin Aretef6B
60The Corner Crackf6A
61Aretef6A *
62Johnny's Danglerf6C **
63Johnny's Extended Danglerf6B+ **
64Deadheads Directf7B ***
65Deadheads Direct Directf7B
66Raise Your Harpoonf7A+ **
67The Overhangf6A *
68The Overhang Dynof6A
69Overhang Eliminatef6C+ **
70Two Cuts Above (Eliminate)f6C
71The Enemy Withinf4 *
72The Lipf6B+ *
 BOULDERING - LOWER 
 FLOESTONE WALL 
75The Floestone Wallf7A *
76Slap The Bitch Upf6C
77Flattiesf6B+
78Slopey Slapperf6C+
79Porty manf7A+
 CAVE WALL 
81Top breakf5
82Break 2f5+ 6a
83Break 3f6B
84Low breakf6C
85The Cave Traversef5+ *
86Ali's Eliminatef7A+ **
87Pocket, Slopey Crimpf6C
88The Knowledgef7C **
89Sidepullf6C+
90The Man from Ellonf7B **
91Crimpf6C
92Crimp with sidepullf6B+
93The Shieldf7A
94The Throwf6B
 ELIMINATE WALL 
96Easy Eliminatef6A+
97Crimpsf6B+
98Two Peachesf7A *
99Quartz Eliminatef7B+ **
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Looks like a crucial crimp from Deadheads has come off (small left hand crimp in crack on headwall) - Problem is now significantly harder
Hamfunk - 06/Sep/14
Climbed at Boltsheugh Lower last night. 1 bolt broke on me (Hardy) and there is another loose one (Laurel??) I have the evidence of the broken one!!
eddiealaszewski - 20/Jun/13
After the weekend storms, the boulder jumble at the right-side (north) of the Upper section has been re-jumbled. Some serious lumps of rocks here, all seem to be stable, but shows the incredible power in the waves, especially as it is quite high up. The approach path has also taken a beating, still quite safe but some parts are noticably undercut, "be careful out there".
GrahamJ - 19/Dec/12