Walk from Ao Nang across the "monkey trail" towards the beach with the posh resort. Walk along the beach to the end nearest Tonsai/Ao Nang tower. Follow a VERY rough trail inland alongside the resort boundary, until it's possible to head up right towards the rock. Then follow the rock to the right, hacking through the jungle as you go and ascending a fixed rope, until you come to a clearer area and see bolts.
Don't trespass in the resort unless you're staying there! Sign in at the hut at the Ao Nang end of the beach. Tell the guards you're going climbing. You do have a right to climb here as the beach is not private and the monkey trail is on national park land. Best not to push it though, so if asked to leave do so. (As at April 2013)
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