Climbs 12
Rocktype Conglomerate
Altitude 13m a.s.l
Faces SW
Crag features
Approximately 15 meters long and 3-4 meters high sandstone with lots of pebble inclusions. Be warned: the rock is quite loose in places and crumbly everywhere. You should make careful judgements about what might stay in place when you pull on it, also with some of the larger blocks. Moreover the problems are all pretty easy, none of them exceeding font 5b in difficulty. Having said that, the setting is pretty nice, sunny and surprisingly remote given its proximity to central Bristol. Good for a picnic with some amusing climbing interludes. The ground beneath the boulders is soft earth, sadly there's a big sharp rock sticking out of the ground right below the (possibly) best and hardest boulder problem - spotter strongly advised. Wait for dry conditions - even if the rock dries quickly, the approach path and the ground below the boulders doesn't.
Approach notes
Best & most eco-friendly approach is a walk-in along the Avon from the Sea Mills train station (Severn Line) - cross a small lateral branch of the river via a tiny pedestrian bridge and walk along Avon's East side (a marked footpath) until you stand right in front of the small boulders. 15 minutes. A shorter approach path starts near the crossing of the Portway and Sylvan Way, making use of a railway tunnel. The crag and its approach are tidal (at spring tides)
| Visited on Bank Holiday Monday, lovely simple walk in with my kids and godson. Crag a bit crumbly and snappy but would tidy up well with more visits. Landings on the RHS excellent but all problems require a down climb or jump off. Put up some eliminates (all SDS) on the easy Wall on the right. Topo photos uploaded and problems named although they’ve probably been done previously. Zoomer - 30/May/19 |
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| Visited on Bank Holiday Monday with my kids and godson. Just went for a walk really (which was very pleasant). Route descriptions pretty poor as is the rock but cleaned up the lines I played on. Good landings on the RHS and great little spot. Climbed the easy eliminates on the RHS and logged and named them. All SDS to give a bit more of a challenge. Took photos and added to the data base. Zoomer - 30/May/19 |
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| Triangle starter and niche starter are very quick dryers. About 50m left there is an easy, blocky slab. Potentially good for eliminate bouldering? Will come back in summer to get the rest of the ticks ChrisClark1 - 23/Dec/18 |
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| If I were to describe the rock in one word it would be "biscuity" James Moyle - 05/May/17 |
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| Walked down footpath at junction of Sylvan Way and Portway.Can cut across railway line. The base of the cliff is covered by some high tides. The rock is a rough conglomerate so now possible to follow trail of blood up routes. Found a couple of the easier routes. Also managed to traverse in from right hand end until the holds and me kept falling off.
There is also a big boulder about 500m further downstream which is very solid but overgrown.
And then there is the deep water soloing to be done on Horseshoe Bend!
Also the area is an SSSI http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horseshoe_Bend,_Shirehampton leland stamper - 30/Apr/13 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.