Approximately 15 meters long and 3-4 meters high sandstone with lots of pebble inclusions. Be warned: the rock is quite loose in places and crumbly everywhere. You should make careful judgements about what might stay in place when you pull on it, also with some of the larger blocks. Moreover the problems are all pretty easy, none of them exceeding font 5b in difficulty. Having said that, the setting is pretty nice, sunny and surprisingly remote given its proximity to central Bristol. Good for a picnic with some amusing climbing interludes. The ground beneath the boulders is soft earth, sadly there's a big sharp rock sticking out of the ground right below the (possibly) best and hardest boulder problem - spotter strongly advised. Wait for dry conditions - even if the rock dries quickly, the approach path and the ground below the boulders doesn't.
Best & most eco-friendly approach is a walk-in along the Avon from the Sea Mills train station (Severn Line) - cross a small lateral branch of the river via a tiny pedestrian bridge and walk along Avon's East side (a marked footpath) until you stand right in front of the small boulders. 15 minutes. A shorter approach path starts near the crossing of the Portway and Sylvan Way, making use of a railway tunnel.
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|Walked down footpath at junction of Sylvan Way and Portway.Can cut across railway line. The base of the cliff is covered by some high tides. The rock is a rough conglomerate so now possible to follow trail of blood up routes. Found a couple of the easier routes. Also managed to traverse in from right hand end until the holds and me kept falling off.
There is also a big boulder about 500m further downstream which is very solid but overgrown.
And then there is the deep water soloing to be done on Horseshoe Bend!
Also the area is an SSSI http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horseshoe_Bend,_Shirehampton|
leland stamper - 30/Apr/13