Ynys Lochtyn

Climbs 95 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
A recently developed venue to be featured in the upcoming CC Mid Wales guide book. A free Interim guide by Doug Kerr is available for download here:


An excellent location with a glorious outlook over cardigan bay. In fine weather expect to see plenty of dolphins and seals.

The jewel in the crown is undoubtedly Beaj Iskis HVS 5a***. Other great climbs include: The Day the Balloon Went Up S 4a**, Fate Loves the Fearless HVS 5a**, Round and Round Went the Great Big Wheel E2 5b***, Gorilla Warfare E3 5c**, Little Miss Sunshine E4 5c**, among many others.

Access notes
Access to the island is via the path on the headland descending to sea level. This is shown in the interim guide. Care should be taken on this path if at all wet, as it will be tremendously slippery. The stake for abseiling into the gap between the island and headland has been removed. This will be replaced in the near future.

*** The island is owned by the National Trust, and is NOT open access land. The island is a SSSI and currently there are no restrictions on climbing on the west side of the island during the nesting season, (but this may change in the future). However, climbing is only permitted provided nesting birds and other wildlife (eg seals) are left undisturbed. This must always be adhered to, irrespective of the fact that there are no current formal restrictions in place. There is a current voluntary seasonal restriction on the east side of the island due to nesting birds, so please adhere to this. Please kindly respect these conditions in order to ensure continued access to the island and also for the welfare of the wildlife. ***

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Lochtyn The Lava TreeVS 4b  
4Insect InsideVS 4c 1
5Lucky BagVS 5a  
6Under FireE2 5b 3
7Shooting PainsVS 4b 5
9Piano TunaVD 1
10Black CaviarHS 4b *1
11Salmon en RouteHVS 5a ** 
12Tuna Hash (Mr Tickle finish)E3 6a *4
13Tuna HashE1 5b * 
14Fish FingersE1 5b * 
15Salt Water CureS 4a  
16Creative WhitingS 4a 1
17Fate Loves the FearlessHVS 5a **3
18Lemon SoulHVS 5b *1
19Can You Tell What it is Yet?VS 4c *1
20Paint it, BlackVS 4b 1
21Black SnapperE2 5b ** 
22Big GunsE3 5c **1
23Little Miss SunshineE4 5c **1
24Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless ClimbE4 6a ** 
25Lochtyn SyndromeVS 4c *6
26Dawnsio Ar y DibynHS 4a 1
27Born of a Broken ManS 4a  
29About TimeHS 4b  
30Full TimeS 4a 1
31The Last TimeHS 4b 6
32Come in, Your Time is UpVD 4a 5
33Time on My HandsS 4a 5
34Time of Your LifeHS 4b 7
35Out of Time (left hand finish)E1 5a *1
36Out of TimeE2 5b *5
37Crack in TimeVS 4b 1
39Dyddiau MelynVD  
40Storm in a Sea CupVD  
41Sgyl 'N' CrosbonsD  
42Cae MelynVD  
43Disruptive ElementsHS 4a  
44Spirit in MotionS 4a  
45High FinanceS 4a  
46Room at the BottomD  
47Cwyn y GwyntD  
49Heavy the Beat of Weary WavesS 4a *6
50Heavy the Beat of Weary Waves (direct start)S 4a *1
51The Icing on the CakeHVD 2
52Heulwen CwartsE1 5a * 
53Something Nasty in the VaultVS 4c 5
55HiraethuVD *2
56We Know our OnionsS 4a 2
57Boots, Boots, BootsVD  
58West Coast LifeVD 1
59All is Safely Gathered inS 3c *4
60The Day the Balloon Went UpS 4a **8
61Round and Round Went the Great Big WheelE2 5b ***4
62Beaj IskisHVS 5a ***5
64FaeroesE1 5b * 
65FastnetE1 5a  
66MalinE2 5c  
67Ocean WildVS 4c  
69The Deep EndVD *2
70Alone in the DeepS  
71Into the DeepVD 2
72Deep Dark OceanHS 4b *2
73In Too DeepVS 4c 3
74Lost in the DeepHVS 5a 1
75Deep BlueE1 5b *2
76Asleep in the DeepVS 4b *1
77Deeply DippyVS 4c *3
78Menace from the DeepVS 5a *9
79How Deep is Your Love (left-hand start)E1 5b **1
80How Deep is Your LoveE1 5c **1
81Skipper's PermissionHVS 5a * 
82Flight of the Concrete PuffinsE3 6a * 
83SealVS 4c *8
84Call of the Concrete PuffinsHS 4b *5
85CrabS *14
86Keep Young and BeautifulHVS 5a 7
87When you've Got to GoHS 4b 6
88You, Me and JDHS 4a 9
89The TestHVS 4c *11
90SaudadeS 4a 3
91BrandedE1 5a 6
92Sons of the SeaE1 5a *2
93The Deadly AttachmentE1 5a 5
94Man HuntHVS 5a *3
95War DanceE2 5c *5
96Gorilla WarfareE3 5c **7
97New Dads ArmyE4 5c 3
98DolphinVD 6
100All White on the Night5a *2
101Whitey4a *2
102Whiteout3+ *2
103Blanco Rib3 3
104Segregation2+ 2
105UV and Me4c 2
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The link for the interim guide has changed. The PDF is now available from: http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/shop/books/guidebook-downloads/
Doug Kerr - 18/Mar/14