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These details were last updated on 19/Jun/2014

Ynys Lochtyn

Ceredigion, WALES

Climbs 94 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
A recently developed venue to be featured in the upcoming CC Mid Wales guide book. A free Interim guide by Doug Kerr is available for download here:

An excellent location with a glorious outlook over cardigan bay. In fine weather expect to see plenty of dolphins and seals.

The jewel in the crown is undoubtedly Beaj Iskis HVS 5a***. Other great climbs include: The Day the Balloon Went Up S 4a**, Fate Loves the Fearless HVS 5a**, Round and Round Went the Great Big Wheel E2 5b***, Gorilla Warfare E3 5c**, Little Miss Sunshine E4 5c**, among many others.

Access notes
Access to the island is via the path on the headland descending to sea level. This is shown in the interim guide. Care should be taken on this path if at all wet, as it will be tremendously slippery. The stake for abseiling into the gap between the island and headland has been removed. This will be replaced in the near future.

*** The island is owned by the National Trust, and NOT open access land. Permission is given by the NT to climb here providing nesting birds and seals are left undisturbed, irrespective of whether restrictions are in place or not. There is a current restriction on the east side of the island due to nesting birds. No climbs are here, so please adhere to this. Please kindly respect these conditions in order to ensure continued access to the island and also for the welfare of the wildlife. ***

Weather forecast

 Today  Tue  Wed  Thu  Fri 

2.8mm rain
Mainly cloudy
17 °C
22 kph

0.5mm rain
17 °C
18 kph

0.0mm rain
16 °C
15 kph

0.5mm rain
Mainly cloudy
18 °C
14 kph

1.8mm rain
17 °C
15 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
2Lochtyn The Lava TreeVS 4b  
4Insect InsideVS 4c  
5Lucky BagVS 5a  
6Under FireE2 5b 2
7Shooting PainsVS 4b 4
9Piano TunaVD 1
10Black CaviarHS 4b *1
11Salmon en RouteHVS 5a ** 
12Tuna Hash (Mr Tickle finish)E3 6a *4
13Tuna HashE1 5b * 
14Fish FingersE1 5b * 
15Salt Water CureS 4a  
16Creative WhitingS 4a 1
17Fate Loves the FearlessHVS 5a **3
18Lemon SoulHVS 5b *1
19Can You Tell What it is Yet?VS 4c *1
20Paint it, BlackVS 4b 1
21Black SnapperE2 5b ** 
22Big GunsE3 5c **1
23Little Miss SunshineE4 5c **1
24Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless ClimbE4 6a ** 
25Lochtyn SyndromeVS 5a *3
26Dawnsio Ar y DibynHS 4a  
27Born of a Broken ManS 4a  
29About TimeHS 4b  
30Full TimeS 4a  
31The Last TimeHS 4b 1
32Come in, Your Time is UpVD 4a 2
33Time on My HandsS 4a 3
34Time of Your LifeHS 4b 3
35Out of Time (left hand finish)E2 5b *1
36Out of TimeE2 5c *1
38Dyddiau MelynVD  
39Storm in a Sea CupVD  
40Sgyl 'N' CrosbonsD  
41Cae MelynVD  
42Disruptive ElementsHS 4a  
43Spirit in MotionS 4a  
44High FinanceS 4a  
45Room at the BottomD  
46Cwyn y GwyntD  
48Heavy the Beat of Weary WavesS 4a *5
49Heavy the Beat of Weary Waves (direct start)S 4a *1
50The Icing on the CakeHVD 2
51Heulwen CwartsE1 5a * 
52Something Nasty in the VaultVS 4c 4
 Climb nameGradex
54HiraethuVD *2
55We Know our OnionsS 4a 2
56Boots, Boots, BootsVD  
57West Coast LifeVD 1
58All is Safely Gathered inS 3c *4
59The Day the Balloon Went UpS 4a **7
60Round and Round Went the Great Big WheelE2 5b ***4
61Beaj IskisHVS 5a ***4
63FaeroesE1 5b * 
64FastnetE1 5a  
65MalinE2 5c  
66Ocean WildVS 4c  
68The Deep EndVD *1
69Alone in the DeepS  
70Into the DeepVD 1
71Deep Dark OceanHS 4b *1
72In Too DeepVS 4c 2
73Lost in the DeepHVS 5a  
74Deep BlueE1 5b *2
75Asleep in the DeepVS 4b *1
76Deeply DippyVS 4c *3
77Menace from the DeepVS 5a *7
78How Deep is Your Love (left-hand start)E1 5b **1
79How Deep is Your LoveE1 5c **1
80Skipper's PermissionHVS 5a * 
81Flight of the Concrete PuffinsE3 6a * 
82SealVS 4c *5
83Call of the Concrete PuffinsHS 4b *5
84CrabS *8
85Keep Young and BeautifulHVS 5a 5
86When you've Got to GoHS 4b 3
87You, Me and JDHS 4a 7
88The TestHVS 4c *5
89SaudadeS 4a 2
90BrandedE1 5a 1
91Sons of the SeaE1 5a * 
92The Deadly AttachmentE2 5b *2
93Man HuntHVS 5a *1
94War DanceE2 5c *1
95Gorilla WarfareE3 5c **5
96New Dads ArmyE4 5c 2
97DolphinVD 5
99All White on the Night5a *2
100Whitey4a *2
101Whiteout3+ *2
102Blanco Rib3 3
103Segregation2+ 2
104UV and Me4c 2
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The link for the interim guide has changed. The PDF is now available from:
Doug Kerr - 18/Mar/14