Ynys Lochtyn

Climbs 96 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
A recently developed venue to be featured in a new Mid Wales guidebook.

An excellent location with a glorious outlook over cardigan bay. In fine weather expect to see plenty of dolphins and seals.

The jewel in the crown is undoubtedly Beaj Iskis HVS 5a***. Other great climbs include: The Day the Balloon Went Up S 4a**, Fate Loves the Fearless HVS 5a**, Round and Round Went the Great Big Wheel E2 5b***, Gorilla Warfare E3 5c**, Little Miss Sunshine E4 5c**, among many others.

Access notes
Access to the island is via the path on the headland descending to sea level. This is shown in the interim guide. Care should be taken on this path if at all wet, as it will be tremendously slippery. There is also a stake on the end of the headland overlooking the gap between this and the island for an abseil.

*** The island is owned by the National Trust, and is NOT open access land. The island is also an SSSI.

East face of Lochtyn – Due to nesting sea birds, there is a seasonal restriction on all routes on the east face March 1st to July 31st inclusive. There are only a handful of routes on this side of the island in the 'Topple Blocks' area.

In addition, advice to be given that if climbers believe they are in the vicinity of any cliff nesting birds then they are to desist from climbing within 50m of the nest.

Seals – none of the climbing is near to, or adjacent to any caves or bays used by seals, however the generic advice issued to climbers should be followed “If there is a seal pup within a small enclosed bay where you would be climbing within sight of the pup –choose another crag. For large bays or beaches maintain as great a distance as possible – there are no generally accepted distances but for activities such as climbing then a minimum distance of 100m seems sensible”.

Vegetation – no vegetation clearance or removing of turf whatsoever.

Please kindly respect these conditions in order to ensure continued access to the island and also for the welfare of the wildlife. ***

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Lochtyn The Lava TreeVS 4b 1
4Insect InsideVS 4c 1
5Lucky BagVS 5a 1
6Under FireE2 5b 3
7Shooting PainsVS 4b 6
9Piano TunaVD 2
10Black CaviarHS 4b *1
11Salmon en RouteHVS 5a **1
12Tuna Hash (Mr Tickle finish)E3 6a *4
13Tuna HashE1 5b * 
14Fish FingersE1 5b * 
15Salt Water CureS 4a  
16Creative WhitingS 4a 2
17Fate Loves the FearlessHVS 5a **3
18Lemon SoulHVS 5b *1
19Can You Tell What it is Yet?VS 4c *2
20Paint it, BlackVS 4b 1
21Black SnapperE2 5b ** 
22Big GunsE3 5c **1
23Little Miss SunshineE4 5c **2
24Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless ClimbE4 6a **1
25Lochtyn SyndromeVS 4c *7
26Dawnsio Ar y DibynHS 4a 1
27Born of a Broken ManS 4a  
29About TimeHS 4b 2
30Full TimeS 4a 3
31The Last TimeHS 4b 9
32Come in, Your Time is UpVD 4a 6
33Time on My HandsS 4a 7
34Time of Your LifeHS 4b 9
35Out of Time (left hand finish)E1 5a *1
36Out of TimeE2 5b *5
37Crack in TimeVS 4b 1
39Dyddiau MelynVD  
40Storm in a Sea CupVD  
41Sgyl 'N' CrosbonsD  
42Cae MelynVD  
43Disruptive ElementsHS 4a  
44Spirit in MotionS 4a  
45High FinanceS 4a  
46Room at the BottomD  
47Cwyn y GwyntD  
49Heavy the Beat of Weary WavesS 4a *8
50Heavy the Beat of Weary Waves (direct start)S 4a *1
51The Icing on the CakeHVD 2
52Heulwen CwartsE1 5a *1
53Something Nasty in the VaultVS 4c 5
55HiraethuVD *2
56We Know our OnionsS 4a 2
57Boots, Boots, BootsVD  
58West Coast LifeVD 1
59All is Safely Gathered inS 3c *5
60The Day the Balloon Went UpS 4a **9
61Round and Round Went the Great Big WheelE2 5b ***4
62Beaj IskisHVS 5a ***6
64FaeroesE1 5b * 
65FastnetE1 5a  
66MalinE2 5c  
67Ocean WildVS 4c  
69The Deep EndVD *2
70Alone in the DeepS  
71Into the DeepVD 2
72Deep Dark OceanHS 4b *3
73In Too DeepVS 4c 3
74Lost in the DeepHVS 5a 1
75Deep BlueE1 5b *2
76Asleep in the DeepVS 4b *1
77Deeply DippyVS 4c *4
78Menace from the DeepVS 5a *12
79How Deep is Your Love (left-hand start)E1 5b **2
80How Deep is Your LoveE1 5c **2
81Skipper's PermissionHVS 5a *1
82Flight of the Concrete PuffinsE3 6a *1
83SealVS 4c *10
84Call of the Concrete PuffinsHS 4b *8
85CrabS *18
86Keep Young and BeautifulHVS 5a 7
87When you've Got to GoHS 4b 6
88You, Me and JDHS 4a 9
89The TestHVS 4c *11
90SaudadeS 4a 3
91BrandedE1 5a 6
92Sons of the SeaE1 5a *2
93The Deadly AttachmentE1 5a 5
94Man HuntHVS 5a *4
95War DanceE2 5c *6
96Gorilla WarfareE3 5c **8
97New Dads ArmyE4 5c 4
98DolphinVD 9
100All White on the Night5a *2
101Whitey4a *2
102Whiteout3+ *2
103Blanco Rib3 3
104Segregation2+ 2
105UV and Me4c 2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Stunning crag. Great setting, adventurous feel and brilliant rock. When climbing there we saw bottlenose dolphins and a killer whale!
RyanOsborne - 25/May/15