Climbs 96
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Faces W

Robdog pulling round from the Crux on Seal © deejmonkey

Crag features

A recently developed venue to be featured in a new Mid Wales guidebook.
An excellent location with a glorious outlook over cardigan bay. In fine weather expect to see plenty of dolphins and seals.

The jewel in the crown is undoubtedly Beaj Iskis HVS 5a***. Other great climbs include: The Day the Balloon Went Up S 4a**, Fate Loves the Fearless HVS 5a**, Round and Round Went the Great Big Wheel E2 5b***, Gorilla Warfare E3 5c**, Little Miss Sunshine E4 5c**, among many others.

Approach notes

Access to the island is via the path on the headland descending to sea level. This is shown in the interim guide. Care should be taken on this path if at all wet, as it will be tremendously slippery. There is also a stake on the end of the headland overlooking the gap between this and the island for an abseil.

*** The island is owned by the National Trust, and is NOT open access land. The island is also an SSSI.

East face of Lochtyn

Access Advice

Restrictions apply from  1 March - 31 July. Reason - Nesting Birds

 

  1. Ynys Lochtyn: No climbing on thecliffs south of the Topple Blocks Area on the east side of the island between March 1st to July 31st inclusive due to nesting birds. Additionally, climbers are strongly advised to avoid climbing in the Topple Blocks Area itself during this period if their presence causes any unnecessary disturbance to nesting birds on the seasonally restricted cliffs 100 metres to the south.
  2. Pentrwyn Lochtyn: No climbing on thecliffs between the Ynys Lochtyn low tide scramble descent path and Traeth yr Ynys on the East side of the headland between March 1st to July 31st inclusive due to nesting choughs. (To date, this area has not been developed for climbing due to loose rock and cliff instability and for this reason, future development is extremely unlikely. This seasonal restriction is therefore for precautionary purposes only.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

Stunning crag. Great setting, adventurous feel and brilliant rock. When climbing there we saw bottlenose dolphins and a killer whale!
RyanOsborne - 25/May/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Lava Tree Wall 
2Lochtyn The Lava Tree
-
VS 4b 1
 Topple Blocks 
4Insect Inside
-
VS 4c 1
5Lucky Bag
-
VS 5a 1
6Under Fire
-
E2 5b 3
7Shooting Pains
-
VS 4b 6
 Stormborn Walls 
9Piano Tuna
-
VD 2
10Black Caviar
-
HS 4b *1
11Salmon en Route
-
HVS 5a **1
12Tuna Hash (Mr Tickle finish)E3 6a *4
13Tuna Hash
-
E1 5b * 
14Fish Fingers
-
E1 5b * 
15Salt Water Cure
-
S 4a  
16Creative Whiting
-
S 4a 2
17Fate Loves the FearlessHVS 5a **3
18Lemon Soul
-
HVS 5b *1
19Can You Tell What it is Yet?
-
VS 4c *2
20Paint it, Black
-
VS 4b 1
21Black Snapper
-
E2 5b ** 
22Big Guns
-
E3 5c **1
23Little Miss Sunshine
-
E4 5c **3
24Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Climb
-
E4 6a **1
25Lochtyn Syndrome
-
VS 4c *7
26Dawnsio Ar y Dibyn
-
HS 4a 1
27Born of a Broken Man
-
S 4a  
 Undercover Wall 
29About Time
-
HS 4b 2
30Full Time
-
S 4a 3
31The Last Time
-
HS 4b 9
32Come in, Your Time is Up
-
VD 4a 6
33Time on My Hands
-
S 4a 7
34Time of Your Life
-
HS 4b 10
35Out of Time (left hand finish)
-
E1 5a *1
36Out of Time
-
E2 5b *5
37Crack in TimeVS 4b 1
 Yellow Wall 
39Dyddiau Melyn
-
VD  
40Storm in a Sea Cup
-
VD  
41Sgyl 'N' Crosbons
-
D  
42Cae Melyn
-
VD  
43Disruptive Elements
-
HS 4a  
44Spirit in Motion
-
S 4a  
45High Finance
-
S 4a  
46Room at the Bottom
-
D  
47Cwyn y Gwynt
-
D  
 Quartz Wall 
49Heavy the Beat of Weary Waves
-
S 4a *9
50Heavy the Beat of Weary Waves (direct start)
-
S 4a *1
51The Icing on the Cake
-
HVD 2
52Heulwen Cwarts
-
E1 5a *1
53Something Nasty in the Vault
-
VS 4c 5
 Recessed Wall 
55Hiraethu
-
VD *2
56We Know our Onions
-
S 4a 2
57Boots, Boots, Boots
-
VD  
58West Coast Life
-
VD 1
59All is Safely Gathered in
-
S 3c *5
60The Day the Balloon Went Up
-
S 4a **11
61Round and Round Went the Great Big Wheel
-
E2 5b ***6
62Beaj IskisHVS 5a ***7
 Ocean Wall 
64Faeroes
-
E1 5b * 
65Fastnet
-
E1 5a  
66Malin
-
E2 5c  
67Ocean Wild
-
VS 4c  
 Hidden Wall 
69The Deep End
-
VD *4
70Alone in the Deep
-
S  
71Into the Deep
-
VD 3
72Deep Dark Ocean
-
HS 4b *6
73In Too Deep
-
VS 4c 4
74Lost in the Deep
-
HVS 5a 3
75Deep Blue
-
E1 5b *2
76Asleep in the Deep
-
VS 4b *3
77Deeply Dippy
-
VS 4c *5
78Menace from the Deep
-
VS 5a *13
79How Deep is Your Love (left-hand start)
-
E1 5b **2
80How Deep is Your Love
-
E1 5c **2
81Skipper's Permission
-
HVS 5a *1
82Flight of the Concrete Puffins
-
E3 6a *1
83Seal
-
VS 4c *11
84Call of the Concrete Puffins
-
HS 4b *9
85Crab
-
S *23
86Keep Young and Beautiful
-
HVS 5a 7
87When you've Got to Go
-
HS 4b 9
88You, Me and JD
-
HS 4a 11
89The Test
-
HVS 4c *13
90Saudade
-
S 4a 5
91Branded
-
E1 5a 7
92Sons of the Sea
-
E1 5a *2
93The Deadly Attachment
-
E1 5a 5
94Man Hunt
-
HVS 5a *5
95War Dance
-
E2 5c *6
96Gorilla WarfareE3 5c **9
97New Dads Army
-
E4 5c 4
98Dolphin
-
VD 11
 DWS Wall 
100All White on the Night5a *2
101Whitey4a *2
102Whiteout3+ *2
103Blanco Rib3 3
104Segregation2+ 2
105UV and Me4c 2

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