Climbs 50
Rocktype Andesite
Altitude 1398m a.s.l
Faces all
Halfway up the Voie Normale, Dent de la Rancune. © Malbogies
Crag features
Andesite pillar in the Sancy mountain range - spectacular views. Overhanging and slab climbs.
Route lengths : up to 90m
Route grades : French 4c to 8a
Exceptional atmosphere. Rated as one of the hardest mountain pillars in France (??), the voie normale is graded French 6a, the other routes being at least 6b. In situ bolts, but spaced in a way requiring commitment from the leader. Winter ice climbing also possible when in condition.
The site is protected under the national parks authority regulations, so chipping, route modification and any new equipment placements are subject to prior authorization.
WARNING : as a mountain rockface, the rock may seem compact, but does have a tendency to break off when warming up after the winter, so wearing a helmet at the bottom of the crag is advised.
Approach notes
From the A75, either from Clermont Ferrand or Issoire, drive to Besse en Chandesse and then the Vallée de Chaudefour (this valley is a popular tourist spot located ENE of the Puy de Sancy). Park at the Buron de Chaudefour (tourist centre), payment of 6€ required. Both La Dent de la Rancune and its sister crag, La Crete du Coq, are visible as one walks up the valley. Walk in from the car park to base of crag - 45 minutes with a steep section from the main path to the base of the crag. Start by following the main path through a forested section into the valley from the car park for approximately 1.5km, when you come out of the forest there are two paths to the right starting at the same point just before a large single tree. Take the path that heads up diagonally towards the crag. Follow this for approximately 500m until it reaches the forested section bellow the crag and continue along the path up a steep section to the right side of the south face. There are a couple of alternate paths up which all lead to the crag.
WARNING : Access can be restricted in the spring months up to June due to nesting peregrine falcons. Ask beforehand at the tourist centre as to which areas are concerned.
No Access Issues
Access can be restricted in the spring months up to June due to nesting peregrine falcons. Ask beforehand at the tourist centre as to which areas are concerned.Long approach on steep ground.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
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