Climbs 200
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 453m a.s.l
Faces SE

Jenny B on Graspia (F4c), Marciaga, Italy © Stuart S

Crag features

See for more details and a list of routes

The crag lies about 1 km to the east of the villiage of Marciaga - on the road to Castion Vestige, opposite direction to Garda.

Approach notes

All I remember is you park by a church - the crag is visible from the road. Walk across a golf course and through a lovely grove of trees until a fairly obvious path to the crag. The crag is south facing but the bottom is shaded by trees.

The other thing I remember is that "Nido non ascendre" is not the name of a route - it means "Don't climb - wasps nest". It's the sort of mistake you only make once


Marciaga is the only place I've sport climbed, and the only place in Italy I've climbed, so not a lot of experience to draw on. But, this was a lovely spot - the views from the top of Affi and Rocca di Garda, the lake and mountains across the valley are spectacular, and equal to those of the Riva/Nago-Torbole area. Being in the woods, there's also a fair bit of shade, which can be useful. The rock itself is lovely - steep slabs, fairly grippy for limestone, lots of pockets and a few cracks, not much polished. The grades feel a bit hard to me, though I climbed nothing particularly hard: the grades felt equivalent to the English technical grades, and, combined with sparse bolting, 4c felt like HS/VS. Would have loved to have climbed more, but my second wasn't enjoying it on the second visit, and we realised we were getting covered in very small, fine little spines (from a caterpillar? a bush?) that were very irritating to the skin. Watch out for these and for big wasps (spotted a calabrone nest on Glasnost)! A small set of nuts (e.g. 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8) might be useful/appreciated on some routes. A good day to be had! Finally, the church you park at is not the one in Marciaga itself, but is called "Madonna del Soccorso". The church is on the Kompass map.
C Witter - 21/Aug/16
A lovely little cragg, no routes stand out as classics. Non the less a nice place to while away a sunny afternoon. The trees help shelter the belay and the picnic spots.
Will W - 09/Jan/08
Very pleasant crag, about 5miles from the town of Garda, 10 minute walk-in and whilst it's south facing, the base is covered in trees
Chris the Tall - 05/Jan/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
3Bombaso3+ *1
4Pettit Pilier5c 2
5Angevensi4c 1
6Quelli del 1c3+ 2
7Old Love4a 2
8Tempesta4c 1
9Gavina3 2
10Ciao Efrem Sanguinetto4a 2
11Whisky? No grazie5c 1
12Graspia4c 1
5a 2
15Rombo (Disattrezzata)
4a 1
16W la Mamma (Disattrezzata)
6a 1
17Oasi5a 2
18Mr. Verde (a destra pił difficile)5c 4
5c 2
21Guai in vista
6a+ 1
22Criumiri biondi
4c 1
23Viva le donne
4c 1
25Fata Turchina
4c 2
26Cavallino rosso4c **3
4c 2
28Excalibur6a **2
29Nonna Abelarda
6a+ 1
30Bob rock
4a 2
4c 4
5a 2
33Che Pica5c *3
34Orlando Furioso4a 1
36Criminal4a 1
37Barbagianni4c 2
38113a6a 1
39Gekki4c 3
40Dedicata A Laura4c 2
41Negus *
5a 1
42Niet Pezotski *
4c 1
43Palestrina *4a 1
44Zio Billy *4a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris the Tall