UKC

Climbs 30
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 25m a.s.l
Faces S

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Edge of Ultra bultra, side-on © Matt Evans SE

Crag features

A unique style for Stockholm, this quartzite/granite crag has arette, face and bold overhangs more akin to hard limestone climbs. The crag is on Ekerö, an island west of Stockholm city with 15-30m high routes along a 70m wide cliff face on compact rock with technical and demanding routes.  Well bolted with a reonnovation on Kalles Kaviar and Black Widow, as well as a new route Trippad Direkt (2019). Grading realistically starts at 6b up to the 8 register.

This area has one of Stockholm's finest 7a climbs "Snövit" (Snow White) and routes are generally considered to be stiffly graded.

The island is beautiful in the summer time and this location has a fantastic beach (at "Busviken") for catching the evening sun where you can barbeque / swim / launch kayaks. Note that these beach areas are public access, and shouldn't be confused with part of the crag which is on private ground (you have to go up and walk around to the beach). 

Because of the location and technical style you will often find you are the only climber here. Bliss!

Best time of year is Spring and Autumn as south facing means it warms up signifficantly in the summer time.

Good topos here:

27crags.com/crags/alvnas

 

https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/sweden/alvnas

Approach notes

Public Transport - Tube to Bromma (green line) then bus 305 to Älvnäs then follow walking directions. 

Car - From Bromma tube, take Ekerövägen towards Drottningholm. Continue to Ekerö, left at the roundabout. After 2 km, right at the roundabout signed for Älvnäs (´opposite a large sports ground on your left) on to Älvnäsvägen. After 2,5 km of winding road, park by the bus stop for the 305 bus (opposite Talgoxevägen 1).

Walking - Walk up Talgoxevägen following the road up to the highest point. A rough path starts by the sandbox, going slight right facing the water takes you down the cliff to the water. Walk with the water on your right through the vegetation until you come to the edge of the wood which marks the center of the cliff face.

Alt. lower from the top. From the sandbox go around the boundary of the house to the left around until you are just under a vegetated cobble stone wall. Drop down and a few meters on you should be able to find the highest anchor point.

Restricted Access

Half of the climb (AFTER Snövit to the right) is on private ground. The owner has consented to allow climbers to use the area but please DO NOT go near their jetty and try to keep off their lawn. If the owner is within sight either stick to the climbing area in the wood, or ask permission before climbing.

They have had reports of climbers swimming / BBQing on their property which is clearly not OK. Be especially careful with litter and gear.

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