A pleasant small crag, with unusual rock. Its South aspect, low altitude and shelter from the forest can make climbing viable here when the mountain crags are impossible-the same features make it ideal for midges however, avoid the crag on still days!
Many of the routes are overgraded in the CC guide, in particular Dentist's Slab is easy V Diff (perhaps only Diff), and Brewer's Troupe is Very Severe 4c. Some of the Severes (especially Robbin's Nest) would only get V Diff on other crags in the guidebook.
The less-than-vertical, well featured rock makes this a climb-anywhere crag, leading to quite a few claims for new routes (here and elsewhere). Do not be disappointed if yours does not appear here, especially if it was climbed after 2005.
Situated in a private forest; the owner encourages public access. The descent to the crag from the ridge at the west end is getting eroded and can be muddy, an easier-angled approach can be made from the east end of the crag-easier to find when leaving! Move out of the power line firebreak here
and go across to here
|3||Robbin's Nest||S 4a *||176|
|4||Brewer's Troupe||VS 4c *||104|
|5||Robbin's Reliant||S 4a *||50|
|6||Central Crack||VD *||217|
|7||Robbin's Right Hand||S *||108|
|8||Dinner Time||E1 5a||4|
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|Beware the 2013 Rockfax descriptions of this crag! To start with, the parking is described as about 100m after driving through the farm, but it's more like 800m. This had us parking (wrongly) by a white house on the hill and crossing boggy ground to reach the fire break. Continue past this house to a much better parking spot. Rockfax will also have you following the entire boggy fire break to get to the crag - ignore this and follow the good track all the way up until level with the crag, then break off left through the forest for 50m or so. We've constructed a cairn by the side of the track to show where to turn off. Finally, some of the route descriptions and lines on the topo are wrong - see individual route pages.|
cdpuk - 07/Apr/15
|Fun little crag, though the walk-in is pretty overgrown. Good grippy rock with lots of holds, but gear's pretty sparse.|
MatthewV - 28/Jul/14