Climbs 20
Rocktype Pillow lava
Altitude 248m a.s.l
Faces S

Craig y Tonnau Crag of the Waves © moelfras

Crag features

A pleasant small crag, with unusual rock. Its South aspect, low altitude and shelter from the forest can make climbing viable here when the mountain crags are impossible-the same features make it ideal for midges however, avoid the crag on still days!

Many of the routes are overgraded in the CC guide, in particular Dentist's Slab is easy V Diff (perhaps only Diff), and Brewer's Troupe is Very Severe 4c. Some of the Severes (especially Robbin's Nest) would only get V Diff on other crags in the guidebook.

The less-than-vertical, well featured rock makes this a climb-anywhere crag, leading to quite a few claims for new routes (here and elsewhere). Do not be disappointed if yours does not appear here, especially if it was climbed after 2005.

Approach notes

Situated in a private forest; the owner encourages public access. The descent to the crag from the ridge at the west end is getting eroded and can be muddy, an easier-angled approach can be made from the east end of the crag-easier to find when leaving! Move out of the power line firebreak here

and go across to here

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Meirionnydd (2002)
Beware the 2013 Rockfax descriptions of this crag! To start with, the parking is described as about 100m after driving through the farm, but it's more like 800m. This had us parking (wrongly) by a white house on the hill and crossing boggy ground to reach the fire break. Continue past this house to a much better parking spot. Rockfax will also have you following the entire boggy fire break to get to the crag - ignore this and follow the good track all the way up until level with the crag, then break off left through the forest for 50m or so. We've constructed a cairn by the side of the track to show where to turn off. Finally, some of the route descriptions and lines on the topo are wrong - see individual route pages.
cdpuk - 07/Apr/15
Fun little crag, though the walk-in is pretty overgrown. Good grippy rock with lots of holds, but gear's pretty sparse.
MatthewV - 28/Jul/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Dentist's SlabS 75
2Mucky PuppyVD 11
3Robbin's NestS 4a *186
4Brewer's TroupeVS 4c *114
5Robbin's ReliantS 4a *57
6Central CrackVD *231
7Robbin's Right HandS *117
8Dinner TimeE1 5a 4
9Badger PowerS 4
10Diane's ApprovalVD **202
11Sunday LunchHS 4b *76
12Spring Lightning
VD 30
13Robbin' a Bank
S 15
14Shooting from the Hype
VS 4c 9
15RaspberryVS 4b 2

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