Rocca Penna

Climbs 27 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 649m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Sunny crag of high quality golden granite, with climbs up to 4 pitches. The main area was originally an alpine training area, so all the routes were originally climbed with pitons and trad. Around 2004 the main area was fully bolted, but the crackline features remain perfectly protectable. The 'area trad' to the left remains unbolted, with 11 single pitch routes, but largely the rock is not of such good quality.

Gets very hot in the summer, so good for a cloudy day, although the mountain wind keeps the top cool.

Descent is generally by abseil (double 60m ropes)

Access notes
Park in Borgone Susa (or take the train to there). Follow via Florio across the railway uphill then take a right onto Via Chiantusello. After a set of hairpin bends park by a barrier (3 parking spaces marked) and walk up the lane directly uphill, then the marked trail to the crag. 20 mins.

Guidebooks
Passaggio a Nord Ovest (2005)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 SECTOR TRAD 
2Il Segreto Di PulcinellaE2 5c
3Fat FingersE3 6a
4IsiE1 5b **
5IvyHS
6Via Degli OppressiE1 5a
7New Trad GenerationE3 5b
8Occhio Alla Penna!S
9Universi ParalleliE1 5a
10Nuova OsessioneE2 5b
11L'ImprovvazioneE1 5a
12Micro-MegaE4 6a
 MAIN BUTTRESS 
14Primo DiedroF5+
15UrsusF6c+
16Secondo DiedroF6a+
17Terzo diedroF6a
18Dica 33F6b
19Cristalli di RocciaF6c
20Diedro della DulferF6a ***
21AmigosF7a+
22Via CentraleF6b+
23Cactus SmeraldiniF6c
24Tin TinF6c+
25OdeonF6c ***
26Ammutinati del BountyF6c+
27Via Del TopoF6b+
28VandaloF7a+
29Spigolo VarenoF5+
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