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These details were last updated on 21/Aug/2010

Le Saussois

Bourgogne, FRANCE

Climbs 224 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 132m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A magnificent sprawling crag composed of limestone buttresses and bays spread along the side of the Yonne. The lazy river unspoilt village of Merry Sur Yonne provides a stunning backdrop for your hard redpoints. Although the crag is south-west facing, shade moves around the sheltered bays through the day and there is normally somewhere cool to climb, although the long routes on the main buttresses are better left for morning / evenings in summer. The crag was has been rebolted at some stage in its life; on many routes rusty old ring-bolts add a touch of historical interest while you're clipping the more reassuring glue-ins!

At one time Le Saussois was a very popular crag; home to the classic Chimpanzodrome - once the hardest route in france. The crowds have moved elsewhere leaving behind a legacy of test-pieces up to F8c+, a few unclimbed proects, and a wealth of quality single and multi-pitch outings starting from more accessible F3s.

Grades here feel fairly stiff, the style of climbing encompasses short power routes on steep pocketed rock, longer routes on the buttresses often have cruxy sections passing bulges and thin balancy climbing between.

The gendarme area has been rebolted and is a lot safer then the jingo wobbly guide mentions, very good routes but a little polished.

Merry Sur Yonne is only an hour and a half drive from Fontainebleau so a worthwhile day or two out if you suffer from bouldering fatigue...

Access notes
The crag is all within a minute's walk of easy parking along the D100. A beautiful bridge spans the Yonne making the crag five accessible on foot from the campsite visible across the river at Merry Sur Yonne. Several other local campsites available at Mailly le Chateau etc.

Guidebooks
Le Saussois Le Parc

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
 SECTEUR CATHLYNN  
2Chercheur D'Or7b+  
3GHM6c+  
4Cathlynn7b  
5PKF7b+  
6It's Belle Patisserie7a+  
7Grimponaute7c+  
8Le Singe Roux7c  
9Menescalifourhon6b+  
10Hajine7a  
11Le Toit D'Hajine7b  
12Le Toit7b+  
13GTM7c  
14Bundao7b+  
15Bundina7b  
16Insoumission8c  
17Tonton Lulu / Tigre Bleu8c+  
 SECTEUR PERTE ET FRACAS  
19Perte et Fracas7c  
20Perte et Fracas (Variante 1)8a  
21Sandinista8a+  
22Un Os Mal Ronge7a  
23Un Cafard D'Encre Noir6b+  
24La Torture Persistante6c+  
25Y'a Plus D'Amour Dans Les Poignees7c  
26Deconnecticut6a+  
27Un Doudou Peut En Cacher Un Autre5c  
 SECTEUR GENDARME  
29Tricosteril5c **3
30La Bagarre5a 2
31La Vielle Au Doigt Gourmand6c+ 2
32Super Loco6a+ ***8
33La Super Loco Direct6b 1
34La Locomotive6a ***5
35Verite Cachee6c+ 1
36L'Arete Integrale4c *1
37LArete Du Grand Gendarme4a 2
38LArete Par La Dalle3+ 2
 SECTEUR PRESIDENT  
40Papi Mougeot6b+  
41Ca Ne Mange Pas De Pain7a+  
42Raideur Digeste5a 3
43Excalibur6b+  
44La Voie Oubliee4c 1
45Terminator7c+  
46This is not a love song8a  
47President7c  
48President Direct7c+  
49Chopinette7b  
50Il Suffit De Passer Le Pont6c+  
51La Speleo6a  
52La Voie Des Trous6b 2
53La Voie Des Trous Direct7a ***3
54You're Under Control7b+  
 SECTEUR GRENOUILLE  
56Le Train Sifflera Trois Fois6c  
57La Revance Des Cons Vaincus6b+  
58Ayo6c  
59La Grenouille5a  
60Cricri5a  
61Crapaud Volant6a 1
62La Voie Des Feuillets6c  
63La Voie Des Feuillets (Variante)7a  
64Rubik's Cule6a+  
65La Ouest7a  
66Les Bras De Morphee7b  
67Mono Mania7c+  
 SECTEUR NID D'AIGLE  
69La Sans Nom6c+  
70La Sans Nom Direct6c+  
71La Cinquieme Republique7c+  
72La Cinquieme Republique (Variante)8a  
73La Diagonale6b  
74Depart Original5a  
75L'I Des Vieux6a+  
76Le Livre Ouvert5c  
77Eclectite6b+  
78La Der6b+ 1
79La Rech5c 4
80Couloir Moreau4a 2
81L'Enfance De L'art5a  
82L'Enfant de Coeur5c ***4
 SECTEUR GROTTE  
84Z4a  
85La Spirale6c+  
86L'I5c 3
87Virage6c+  
88Merci D'Avoir Taille7c  
89Le Toit Blotti6c+  
90Direct De La Der6c+  
 SECTEUR TRICOU  
92Le Spigolo Rabu6b+  
93L'Eau Fraiche6c+  
94Le Heron Bleu7c+  
95L'Amitie6b+  
96Direct De L'Amitie7a  
97Exces De Zele7a+  
98Jungle7b  
99L'Amour7a  
100Nirvana6c  
101La Dalle Blanche6a  
102La Tricou5c 3
103Tricou Droite6a 3
104Le Penchant Fatal6b 2
105Cassandre7a  
 SECTEUR FADA  
107La Croumire5c  
 Climb nameGradex
108Le Tube6c 1
109La Croumire Directe6a+ 1
110Dalle De Balle6c+  
111Roi Dame Valet7c  
112La Fada6a+ 4
113Mange Le Mou6a *2
 SECTEUR CHIMPANZODROME  
115Poupoute5a  
116La Marion6a+  
117La Fonction Cree L'Orgasme7a  
118Mille Milions De Mille Sabords / Confession8b  
119Chimpanzodrome7c+ **1
120Degueulo8a+  
121Le Bidule8a+  
122Adieu Les Patisseries7c  
123La Dudule7a+  
124La Fissure Impossible7a  
 SECTEUR REVANCHE  
126Octocratie8a  
127Perit Baigneur6b+  
128Pepette Show6c  
129Golden Boys7c+ 1
130Ouragan8a  
131The Au Miel8c  
132Revanche8b+  
133Sacrilege8a+  
134Swing7c+  
135Vitamine6b+  
 SECTEUR JARDINS  
137Ca Glisse Par Les Deux Trous7a+  
138Et On Tuera Les Affreux7b  
139Le Genie6c+  
140L'Abstracteur De Quitescence7c  
141La Maestria7c  
142Super Ange8a  
143La Traversee Paragot6c  
144Le Jardin Suspendu6b+  
145Super-jardin6b+ 1
 SECTEUR ANGE  
147Le Toit Du Fix7b  
148Entree Gris Clair Et Gris Fonce6c  
149La Magic Line8b+  
150L'Ange Par Satanas7c 1
151Purification Ethique8b+  
152Cangaceiro7b+  
153Salsa Caliente7b  
154La Cocktail7a  
155L'Ampleur Du Malaise7c  
156Capririnhia7a  
157La Super Echelle7a  
158L'Hyper Echelle7b+  
159La Toto7b  
160Negre Blanc7b  
161Fausse Sortie7b  
 SECTEUR MARTINE  
163Le Pilier De L'Echelle7a  
164La Chatte6a 1
165La Martine6a 2
166La Je6a 1
167L'Arete Jaune6b+ 1
168La Mimosa7b+  
169Sidamour7a+  
170Pilier De La Gedeon6c  
171Les Crayons De Couleur7b  
172Le Gedeon6a+ 1
173La Super Martine7a  
174La Troyenne6c+  
 SECTEUR TOUFOU  
176La Sinopompe5c  
177La Juta6c+  
178Dissidence7a  
179La Mantra7a  
180La Toufou6c+  
181Don Quichotte8a  
182La Canard6c+  
 SECTEUR LUPI  
184Ventripote7a+  
185Lupi Lupe6c  
186La Lupi6b+  
187La Lupissima6c+  
188La Primevere6b+  
 SECTEUR FRANCINOU  
190Mambo8a  
191Le Pilier Du Pauvre6c  
192Detournement De Majeurs6b  
193Francinou6c  
194Samba Carioca7a+  
195Blanche Fesse Et Les Sept Mains7b+  
196Les Roses Ont Toutes Des Epines7a+  
197Le Rameau6b  
198Boubou8a  
199Septieme Ciel6c+  
200La Pogne6a  
201Syphilis6c  
202L'Arete De L'Etrave6a  
 NOT IN CURRENT GUIDE?  
204|Morgans6a 1
205Fouette Cocher7b+ 1
206Echelle6b 3
207Catastrophe6b 3
208La locomogtive2 *** 
209En Veux Tu, En Voila6a 1
210Bascule6a 1
211Cabriolet6a 1
212Diretissime6c 2
213Popaule6b 2
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