Le Saussois

Climbs 224 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 132m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A magnificent sprawling crag composed of limestone buttresses and bays spread along the side of the Yonne. The lazy river unspoilt village of Merry Sur Yonne provides a stunning backdrop for your hard redpoints. Although the crag is south-west facing, shade moves around the sheltered bays through the day and there is normally somewhere cool to climb, although the long routes on the main buttresses are better left for morning / evenings in summer. The crag was has been rebolted at some stage in its life; on many routes rusty old ring-bolts add a touch of historical interest while you're clipping the more reassuring glue-ins!

At one time Le Saussois was a very popular crag; home to the classic Chimpanzodrome - once the hardest route in france. The crowds have moved elsewhere leaving behind a legacy of test-pieces up to F8c+, a few unclimbed proects, and a wealth of quality single and multi-pitch outings starting from more accessible F3s.

Grades here feel fairly stiff, the style of climbing encompasses short power routes on steep pocketed rock, longer routes on the buttresses often have cruxy sections passing bulges and thin balancy climbing between.

The gendarme area has been rebolted and is a lot safer then the jingo wobbly guide mentions, very good routes but a little polished.

Merry Sur Yonne is only an hour and a half drive from Fontainebleau so a worthwhile day or two out if you suffer from bouldering fatigue...

Access notes
The crag is all within a minute's walk of easy parking along the D100. A beautiful bridge spans the Yonne making the crag five accessible on foot from the campsite visible across the river at Merry Sur Yonne. Several other local campsites available at Mailly le Chateau etc.

Guidebooks
Le Saussois Le Parc

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 SECTEUR CATHLYNN 
2Chercheur D'Or7b+
3GHM6c+
4Cathlynn7b
5PKF7b+
6It's Belle Patisserie7a+
7Grimponaute7c+
8Le Singe Roux7c
9Menescalifourhon6b+
10Hajine7a
11Le Toit D'Hajine7b
12Le Toit7b+
13GTM7c
14Bundao7b+
15Bundina7b
16Insoumission8c
17Tonton Lulu / Tigre Bleu8c+
 SECTEUR PERTE ET FRACAS 
19Perte et Fracas7c
20Perte et Fracas (Variante 1)8a
21Sandinista8a+
22Un Os Mal Ronge7a
23Un Cafard D'Encre Noir6b+
24La Torture Persistante6c+
25Y'a Plus D'Amour Dans Les Poignees7c
26Deconnecticut6a+
27Un Doudou Peut En Cacher Un Autre5c
 SECTEUR GENDARME 
29Tricosteril5c **
30La Bagarre5a
31La Vielle Au Doigt Gourmand6c+
32Super Loco6a+ ***
33La Super Loco Direct6b
34La Locomotive6a ***
35Verite Cachee6c+
36L'Arete Integrale4c *
37LArete Du Grand Gendarme4a
38LArete Par La Dalle3+
 SECTEUR PRESIDENT 
40Papi Mougeot6b+
41Ca Ne Mange Pas De Pain7a+
42Raideur Digeste5a
43Excalibur6b+
44La Voie Oubliee4c
45Terminator7c+
46This is not a love song8a
47President7c
48President Direct7c+
49Chopinette7b
50Il Suffit De Passer Le Pont6c+
51La Speleo6a
52La Voie Des Trous6b
53La Voie Des Trous Direct7a ***
54You're Under Control7b+
 SECTEUR GRENOUILLE 
56Le Train Sifflera Trois Fois6c
57La Revance Des Cons Vaincus6b+
58Ayo6c
59La Grenouille5a
60Cricri5a
61Crapaud Volant6a
62La Voie Des Feuillets6c
63La Voie Des Feuillets (Variante)7a
64Rubik's Cule6a+
65La Ouest7a
66Les Bras De Morphee7b
67Mono Mania7c+
 SECTEUR NID D'AIGLE 
69La Sans Nom6c+
70La Sans Nom Direct6c+
71La Cinquieme Republique7c+
72La Cinquieme Republique (Variante)8a
73La Diagonale6b
74Depart Original5a
75L'I Des Vieux6a+
76Le Livre Ouvert5c
77Eclectite6b+
78La Der6b+
79La Rech5c
80Couloir Moreau4a
81L'Enfance De L'art5a
82L'Enfant de Coeur5c ***
 SECTEUR GROTTE 
84Z4a
85La Spirale6c+
86L'I5c
87Virage6c+
88Merci D'Avoir Taille7c
89Le Toit Blotti6c+
90Direct De La Der6c+
 SECTEUR TRICOU 
92Le Spigolo Rabu6b+
93L'Eau Fraiche6c+
94Le Heron Bleu7c+
95L'Amitie6b+
96Direct De L'Amitie7a
97Exces De Zele7a+
98Jungle7b
99L'Amour7a
100Nirvana6c
101La Dalle Blanche6a
102La Tricou5c
103Tricou Droite6a
104Le Penchant Fatal6b
105Cassandre7a
 SECTEUR FADA 
107La Croumire5c
108Le Tube6c
109La Croumire Directe6a+
110Dalle De Balle6c+
111Roi Dame Valet7c
112La Fada6a+
113Mange Le Mou6a *
 SECTEUR CHIMPANZODROME 
115Poupoute5a
116La Marion6a+
117La Fonction Cree L'Orgasme7a
118Mille Milions De Mille Sabords / Confession8b
119Chimpanzodrome7c+ **
120Degueulo8a+
121Le Bidule8a+
122Adieu Les Patisseries7c
123La Dudule7a+
124La Fissure Impossible7a
 SECTEUR REVANCHE 
126Octocratie8a
127Perit Baigneur6b+
128Pepette Show6c
129Golden Boys7c+
130Ouragan8a
131The Au Miel8c
132Revanche8b+
133Sacrilege8a+
134Swing7c+
135Vitamine6b+
 SECTEUR JARDINS 
137Ca Glisse Par Les Deux Trous7a+
138Et On Tuera Les Affreux7b
139Le Genie6c+
140L'Abstracteur De Quitescence7c
141La Maestria7c
142Super Ange8a
143La Traversee Paragot6c
144Le Jardin Suspendu6b+
145Super-jardin6b+
 SECTEUR ANGE 
147Le Toit Du Fix7b
148Entree Gris Clair Et Gris Fonce6c
149La Magic Line8b+
150L'Ange Par Satanas7c
151Purification Ethique8b+
152Cangaceiro7b+
153Salsa Caliente7b
154La Cocktail7a
155L'Ampleur Du Malaise7c
156Capririnhia7a
157La Super Echelle7a
158L'Hyper Echelle7b+
159La Toto7b
160Negre Blanc7b
161Fausse Sortie7b
 SECTEUR MARTINE 
163Le Pilier De L'Echelle7a
164La Chatte6a
165La Martine6a
166La Je6a
167L'Arete Jaune6b+
168La Mimosa7b+
169Sidamour7a+
170Pilier De La Gedeon6c
171Les Crayons De Couleur7b
172Le Gedeon6a+
173La Super Martine7a
174La Troyenne6c+
 SECTEUR TOUFOU 
176La Sinopompe5c
177La Juta6c+
178Dissidence7a
179La Mantra7a
180La Toufou6c+
181Don Quichotte8a
182La Canard6c+
 SECTEUR LUPI 
184Ventripote7a+
185Lupi Lupe6c
186La Lupi6b+
187La Lupissima6c+
188La Primevere6b+
 SECTEUR FRANCINOU 
190Mambo8a
191Le Pilier Du Pauvre6c
192Detournement De Majeurs6b
193Francinou6c
194Samba Carioca7a+
195Blanche Fesse Et Les Sept Mains7b+
196Les Roses Ont Toutes Des Epines7a+
197Le Rameau6b
198Boubou8a
199Septieme Ciel6c+
200La Pogne6a
201Syphilis6c
202L'Arete De L'Etrave6a
 NOT IN CURRENT GUIDE? 
204|Morgans6a
205Fouette Cocher7b+
206Echelle6b
207Catastrophe6b
208La locomogtive2 ***
209En Veux Tu, En Voila6a
210Bascule6a
211Cabriolet6a
212Diretissime6c
213Popaule6b
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