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These details were last updated on 07/Aug/2014

Biblins Cave

Gloucestershire, ENGLAND

Climbs 30 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 107m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A beautiful south west facing limestone cave in the heart of a nature conservation area in the Forest of Dean, that has only recently become unbanned.

Natural England have been great to work with in unbanning the cave for bouldering here, however there are many RULES THAT MUST BE STUCK TO, or the cave will be banned again almost instantly.


1.Bouldering only! No gear, no routes, no bolts, no top roping.

2. No removal of any vegetation no matter how minimal, with no exceptions what so ever. This is a nature conservation site and an SSSI (site of special scientific interest) so although a plant or tree may look ordinary, some of them are the only know locations in the country.

3.Only allowed to climb from May - September each year because of possible hibernating bats. There are no bats currently present in the cave but if you see any please report to crag moderator immediately.

4. Stick to the paths (see access details), no cutting corners or walking off on tangents. Try and avoid stepping on plants or ferns, or snapping twigs off trees.

5. Stick to the cave area and walls either side, as this is the only area unbanned, do not climb in Arthurs Cave which is a tourist attraction about 500m from this cave.

6.General bouldering rules e.g. don't drop litter etc.

Access notes
Only from May - September.

Park as for Doward Campsite car park. DO NOT DRIVE DOWN TO BIBLINS CAMPSITE, PARK AND WALK PAST GREEN BARIER. DO NOT DRIVE PAST GREEN BARRIER. Walk downhill past a low barrier and then straight into the woods. Go down past the quarry on the right, keep going down in till the main path goes off right, and you will see a slightly rocky path in front of you, follow this down until you reach some limestone "steps", scramble down and you will be there.


Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
2Freshly Squeezedf7B+ ***3
3School of Burlf7B *7
4New School Old Schoolf6C+ 17
5School's Out for Summerf7A+ *9
6Pop for the Topf7A ***35
7Rock the Kasbahf7A+ ***18
8Pop for Gaskinsf7B *9
9Rock for Gaskinsf7B+ **6
10Pop for the Bulgef7A+ 7
11Pop For The Bigger Bulgef7B+ 1
13Bulging Topf7A 4
14The Bulgef7A **38
15The Bulge RH Startf7A+ ***17
16The Bulge Footlessf7B 1
 Climb nameGradex
17A Bigger Bulgef7B *4
18Peckitt's Traversef7C ***21
19Tears of the Angelsf7C+ *6
20Angels Extensionf7C+ *3
21Godzilla Sit (project)f8B *** 
22Godzillaf8A+ ***4
23Arch Angelsf8A **4
24Bat Bites Backf7C+ ***4
25Slippery Jem and the Hyenas Denf6A 1
27Dusty Wallf6A+ 5
28Warm Up Wallf5+ *11
29The Giant's Spinef6A **22
30Dustandjugsandrockandreachf6A 6
31Jet Stream Projectf8B ? 1
32Surfing The Wavef6C+ **5
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Beastly Squirrel

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
People have been bivvying and probably lighting fires in the cave for donkeys years.
The Pylon King - 04/Sep/14

Thanks AMorris for letting me know. I am 99% certain it was not a climber with the strict access restrictions. I have heard that people from the campsite have walked up to the cave a light a fire previously. I will contact campsite to ask if this can stop. If this was a climber and you're reading this then please don't do this again as it is a very sensitive area, cheers, James.
Beastly Squirrel - 01/Sep/14

someone has built a fire under the mouth of the cave, resulting in a large ash pile (as if the place needed more dust) and a soot blackened wall. Although there is no indication that it was climbers, it is likely to have been, which given the restrictions on the cave seems like a pretty silly idea. We want to keep this place open for climbing for the foreseeable future and I can't imagine building fires is going to help us keep landowners on side... use your brain guys...
AMorris - 31/Aug/14

Thanks James
brices - 22/Aug/14

1st May - 30th September.
Beastly Squirrel - 19/Aug/14

Can you confirm the access agreement is it till the beginning or end of September. Cheers
brices - 17/Aug/14

Thanks for being so appreciative guys. Just one thing to say is that no one should be driving past the green barrier. Park in Doward campsite and walk to crag past green barrier, please don't drive down to Biblins campsite as there was one very polite man who reported a car getting in the way of children's camping as they didn't read access notes attached. Happy climbing.
Beastly Squirrel - 07/Aug/14

Agree with Joyce, nice one James, can't have been easy getting access sorted, great location with plenty of potential for more! If only I could boulder 8b that line looks amazing!
tombeasley - 19/May/14

James, thanks for sorting the access to this crag and bringing it to our attention. I visited for the first time today and loved it. Very excited about going back!
Joyce - 18/May/14

I'm gunna try and get one made soon but a bit busy atm.
Beastly Squirrel - 08/May/14

Any one have a topo?
EliC - 08/May/14