Biblins Cave

Climbs 33 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 107m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
South west facing limestone roof. If any bats are spotted at the cave please report to crag moderator immediately and make sure to read the access details below! And have fun.

Access notes
Only from May - September.

Access:

Park as for Doward Campsite car park. DO NOT DRIVE DOWN TO BIBLINS CAMPSITE, PARK AND WALK PAST GREEN BARIER.

DO NOT DRIVE PAST GREEN BARRIER. (Driving past the green barrier could stop ambulances from reaching Biblins Campsite which is very very bad!)

Walk downhill past a low green barrier and then straight into the woods. Go down past the quarry on the right, keep going down in till the main path goes off right, and you will see a slightly rocky path in front of you, follow this down until you reach some limestone "steps", scramble down and the cave will be on the left.

DO NOT VEAR FROM PATH OR REMOVE ANY VEGITATION!.

Natural England have been great to work with in unbanning the cave for bouldering here, however there are many RULES THAT MUST BE STUCK TO, or the cave will be banned again almost instantly.

Rules:

1.Bouldering only! No gear, no routes, no bolts, no top roping.

2. No removal of any vegetation no matter how minimal, with no exceptions what so ever. This is a nature conservation site and an SSSI (site of special scientific interest) so although a plant or tree may look ordinary, some of them are the only know locations in the country.

3.Only allowed to climb from May - September each year because of possible hibernating bats. There are no bats currently present in the cave but if you see any please report to crag moderator (James Squire) immediately.

4. Stick to the paths (see access details), no cutting corners or walking off on tangents. Try and avoid stepping on plants or ferns, or snapping twigs off trees.

5. Stick to the cave area and walls either side, as this is the only area unbanned, do not climb in Arthurs Cave which is a tourist attraction about 500m from this cave.

6.General bouldering rules e.g. don't drop litter etc. http://www.climbingworks.com/…/Gr…/10commandments_poster.pdf

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 LEFT WALL  
2Freshly Squeezedf7B+ ***4
3School of Burlf7B *9
4New School Old Schoolf6C+ 19
5School's Out for Summerf7A+ *10
6Pop for the Topf7A ***42
7Rock the Kasbahf7A+ ***19
8Pop for Gaskinsf7A+ *11
9Rock for Gaskinsf7B **8
10Pop for the Bulgef7A+ 10
11Pop For The Bigger Bulgef7B+ 1
 CAVE ROOF  
13Bulging Topf7A 5
14The Bulgef7A **46
15The Bulge RH Startf7A+ ***23
16The Bulge Footlessf7B 2
17A Bigger Bulgef7B *4
18Peckitt's Traversef7C ***26
19Tears of the Angelsf7C+ *6
20Angels Extensionf7C+ *3
21Godzilla Sit (project)f8B *** 
22Godzillaf8A+ ***4
23Arch Angelsf8A **4
24Bit Bites Againf7C *1
25Bat Bites Backf7C+ ***4
26Slippery Jem and the Hyenas Denf6A 1
 RIGHT WALL  
28Dusty Wallf6A+ 5
29Warm Up Wallf5+ *12
30The Giant's Spinef6A **26
31Dustandjugsandrockandreachf6A 7
32Jet Stream Projectf8B ? 1
33Surfing The Wavef6C **8
34Crispy's Roof *f7C **1
35Crispy Cream (stand) *f7B+ *1
36Crispy Cream *f7C+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Beastly Squirrel

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Yes! Sorry for the delay.
Beastly Squirrel - 31/May/15
is it open yet?
peaches69 - 05/May/15
Still banned until further notice!
Beastly Squirrel - 03/May/15
Is the ban lifted yet?
peaches69 - 03/May/15
Had a corking few sessions here now. Roll on next May. It's fab having a decent crimpy cave to play in all summer! The only problem is that I've got to try to remember my beta for all the problems I've been working but not done.
Joyce - 01/Oct/14
I noticed 2 bats at the back of the cave today so the crag is being banned 2 days early. Hope this doesn't effect anyone's plans. Please don't climb here until it is unbanned (possibly next may). Thanks everyone for an awesome season.
Beastly Squirrel - 28/Sep/14
People have been bivvying and probably lighting fires in the cave for donkeys years.
Pylon King Against Capit@lism - 04/Sep/14
Thanks AMorris for letting me know. I am 99% certain it was not a climber with the strict access restrictions. I have heard that people from the campsite have walked up to the cave a light a fire previously. I will contact campsite to ask if this can stop. If this was a climber and you're reading this then please don't do this again as it is a very sensitive area, cheers, James.
Beastly Squirrel - 01/Sep/14
someone has built a fire under the mouth of the cave, resulting in a large ash pile (as if the place needed more dust) and a soot blackened wall. Although there is no indication that it was climbers, it is likely to have been, which given the restrictions on the cave seems like a pretty silly idea. We want to keep this place open for climbing for the foreseeable future and I can't imagine building fires is going to help us keep landowners on side... use your brain guys...
AMorris - 31/Aug/14
Thanks James
brices - 22/Aug/14
1st May - 30th September.
Beastly Squirrel - 19/Aug/14
Can you confirm the access agreement is it till the beginning or end of September. Cheers
brices - 17/Aug/14
Thanks for being so appreciative guys. Just one thing to say is that no one should be driving past the green barrier. Park in Doward campsite and walk to crag past green barrier, please don't drive down to Biblins campsite as there was one very polite man who reported a car getting in the way of children's camping as they didn't read access notes attached. Happy climbing.
Beastly Squirrel - 07/Aug/14
Agree with Joyce, nice one James, can't have been easy getting access sorted, great location with plenty of potential for more! If only I could boulder 8b that line looks amazing!
tombeasley - 19/May/14
James, thanks for sorting the access to this crag and bringing it to our attention. I visited for the first time today and loved it. Very excited about going back!
Joyce - 18/May/14
I'm gunna try and get one made soon but a bit busy atm.
Beastly Squirrel - 08/May/14
Any one have a topo?
EliC - 08/May/14