Biblins Cave

Climbs 30 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 107m a.s.l – Faces SW

Access notes
This crag is currently banned, until the Bat hibernation season ends, on May 2014.

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 LEFT WALL 
2Freshly Squeezedf7B+ ***
3School of Burlf7B *
4New School Old Schoolf6C+
5School's Out for Summerf7A+ *
6Pop for the Topf7A ***
7Rock the Kasbahf7A+ ***
8Pop for Gaskinsf7A+ *
9Rock for Gaskinsf7B **
10Pop for the Bulgef7A+
11Pop For The Bigger Bulgef7B+
 CAVE ROOF 
13Bulging Topf7A
14The Bulgef7A **
15The Bulge RH Startf7A+ ***
16The Bulge Footlessf7B
17A Bigger Bulgef7B *
18Peckitt's Traversef7C ***
19Tears of the Angelsf7C+ *
20Angels Extensionf7C+ *
21Godzilla Sit (project)f8B ***
22Godzillaf8A+ ***
23Arch Angelsf8A **
24Bit Bites Againf7C *
25Bat Bites Backf7C+ ***
26Slippery Jem and the Hyenas Denf6A
 RIGHT WALL 
28Dusty Wallf6A+
29Warm Up Wallf5+ *
30The Giant's Spinef6A **
31Dustandjugsandrockandreachf6A
32Jet Stream Projectf8B ?
33Surfing The Wavef6C **
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Beastly Squirrel

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Had a corking few sessions here now. Roll on next May. It's fab having a decent crimpy cave to play in all summer! The only problem is that I've got to try to remember my beta for all the problems I've been working but not done.
Joyce - 01/Oct/14
I noticed 2 bats at the back of the cave today so the crag is being banned 2 days early. Hope this doesn't effect anyone's plans. Please don't climb here until it is unbanned (possibly next may). Thanks everyone for an awesome season.
Beastly Squirrel - 28/Sep/14
People have been bivvying and probably lighting fires in the cave for donkeys years.
The Pylon King - 04/Sep/14
Thanks AMorris for letting me know. I am 99% certain it was not a climber with the strict access restrictions. I have heard that people from the campsite have walked up to the cave a light a fire previously. I will contact campsite to ask if this can stop. If this was a climber and you're reading this then please don't do this again as it is a very sensitive area, cheers, James.
Beastly Squirrel - 01/Sep/14
someone has built a fire under the mouth of the cave, resulting in a large ash pile (as if the place needed more dust) and a soot blackened wall. Although there is no indication that it was climbers, it is likely to have been, which given the restrictions on the cave seems like a pretty silly idea. We want to keep this place open for climbing for the foreseeable future and I can't imagine building fires is going to help us keep landowners on side... use your brain guys...
AMorris - 31/Aug/14
Thanks James
brices - 22/Aug/14
1st May - 30th September.
Beastly Squirrel - 19/Aug/14
Can you confirm the access agreement is it till the beginning or end of September. Cheers
brices - 17/Aug/14
Thanks for being so appreciative guys. Just one thing to say is that no one should be driving past the green barrier. Park in Doward campsite and walk to crag past green barrier, please don't drive down to Biblins campsite as there was one very polite man who reported a car getting in the way of children's camping as they didn't read access notes attached. Happy climbing.
Beastly Squirrel - 07/Aug/14
Agree with Joyce, nice one James, can't have been easy getting access sorted, great location with plenty of potential for more! If only I could boulder 8b that line looks amazing!
tombeasley - 19/May/14
James, thanks for sorting the access to this crag and bringing it to our attention. I visited for the first time today and loved it. Very excited about going back!
Joyce - 18/May/14
I'm gunna try and get one made soon but a bit busy atm.
Beastly Squirrel - 08/May/14
Any one have a topo?
EliC - 08/May/14
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 28/Sep/2014
ads.ukclimbing.com

Photo Gallery

Directory

Find Listings near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Cardiff, CARDIFF
Dedicated centre.
"2,000 square meters of climbing walls. Over 100 lead climbing lines. Dedicated bouldering area, including bouldering cave. Instruction and climbing activities for all ages and..."
bouldersuk.com