South west facing limestone roof. If any bats are spotted at the cave please report to crag moderator immediately and make sure to read the access details below! And have fun.
Only from May - September.
Park as for Doward Campsite car park. DO NOT DRIVE DOWN TO BIBLINS CAMPSITE, PARK AND WALK PAST GREEN BARIER.
DO NOT DRIVE PAST GREEN BARRIER. (Driving past the green barrier could stop ambulances from reaching Biblins Campsite which is very very bad!)
Walk downhill past a low green barrier and then straight into the woods. Go down past the quarry on the right, keep going down in till the main path goes off right, and you will see a slightly rocky path in front of you, follow this down until you reach some limestone "steps", scramble down and the cave will be on the left.
DO NOT VEAR FROM PATH OR REMOVE ANY VEGITATION!.
Natural England have been great to work with in unbanning the cave for bouldering here, however there are many RULES THAT MUST BE STUCK TO, or the cave will be banned again almost instantly.
1.Bouldering only! No gear, no routes, no bolts, no top roping.
2. No removal of any vegetation no matter how minimal, with no exceptions what so ever. This is a nature conservation site and an SSSI (site of special scientific interest) so although a plant or tree may look ordinary, some of them are the only know locations in the country.
3.Only allowed to climb from May - September each year because of possible hibernating bats. There are no bats currently present in the cave but if you see any please report to crag moderator (James Squire) immediately.
4. Stick to the paths (see access details), no cutting corners or walking off on tangents. Try and avoid stepping on plants or ferns, or snapping twigs off trees.
5. Stick to the cave area and walls either side, as this is the only area unbanned, do not climb in Arthurs Cave which is a tourist attraction about 500m from this cave.
6.General bouldering rules e.g. don't drop litter etc. http://www.climbingworks.com/…/Gr…/10commandments_poster.pdf
|2||Freshly Squeezed||f7B+ ***||4|
|3||School of Burl||f7B *||9|
|4||New School Old School||f6C+||19|
|5||School's Out for Summer||f7A+ *||10|
|6||Pop for the Top||f7A ***||42|
|7||Rock the Kasbah||f7A+ ***||19|
|8||Pop for Gaskins||f7A+ *||11|
|9||Rock for Gaskins||f7B **||8|
|10||Pop for the Bulge||f7A+||10|
|11||Pop For The Bigger Bulge||f7B+||1|
|14||The Bulge||f7A **||46|
|15||The Bulge RH Start||f7A+ ***||23|
|16||The Bulge Footless||f7B||2|
|17||A Bigger Bulge||f7B *||4|
|18||Peckitt's Traverse||f7C ***||26|
|19||Tears of the Angels||f7C+ *||6|
|20||Angels Extension||f7C+ *||3|
|21||Godzilla Sit (project)||f8B ***|
|23||Arch Angels||f8A **||4|
|24||Bit Bites Again||f7C *||1|
|25||Bat Bites Back||f7C+ ***||4|
|26||Slippery Jem and the Hyenas Den||f6A||1|
|29||Warm Up Wall||f5+ *||12|
|30||The Giant's Spine||f6A **||26|
|32||Jet Stream Project||f8B ?||1|
|33||Surfing The Wave||f6C **||8|
|34||Crispy's Roof *||f7C **||1|
|35||Crispy Cream (stand) *||f7B+ *||1|
|36||Crispy Cream *||f7C+||1|
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