UKC

Climbs 58
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 326m a.s.l
Faces NE

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Stephen Horne climbing the superb and sustained Dimension Hit (7a) on the shady north-facing wall of Grau des Ruc. © Alan James

Crag features

This set of crags is situated up the Lluc road from Selva and Les Perxes. The main attraction is the superb north-facing wall of Grau des Ruc which offers some brilliant steep climbs in the 6c to 8a and above range. It does have an awkward approach but the effort is more than rewarded when you get to the crag. Additionally there are two other less interesting sectors; one roadside wall which looks good but it only partially developed and suffers from bust road noise; and one very steep cave with a few hard routes only. Technically these last two crags are known as S. de la Bella Donna but we have combined them all here into one listing since the parking spot is the same.

The crags mostly face north or northeast and give plenty of shade when it is hot. The sun lingers longer on Bella Donna Aparcamiento and Grau des Ruc Dreta. There may be some seepage after rain but this is unlikely to be too bad. Grau des Ruc and Es Salt will give dry climbing in the rain.

Approach notes

The crags are reached by following the Ma-2130 from Inca towards Lluc. Drive through Selva and follow the road through Caimari and past the Les Perxes crags. Continue for around 6km to a large cutting on a bend (this is around 200m after the 12km post on the roadside). Park just after the cutting underneath Bella Donna - Aparcamiento.

Es Salt - Walk back towards the cutting and find a steep via ferrata on the left. Go down this and follow a very vague path dowards and around to the cave.

Grau des Ruc - Walk back down the road through the cutting and turn immediately left after the cutting where there is a small cairn visible. Follow these cairns carefully steeply downwards over sharp rock for 15 mins until a steep down climb with ropes and metal rungs leads to the large crag.

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Climbs at this crag

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