Climbs 58
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 326m a.s.l
Faces NE

Stephen Horne climbing the superb and sustained Dimension Hit (7a) on the shady north-facing wall of Grau des Ruc. © Alan James

Crag features

This set of crags is situated up the Lluc road from Selva and Les Perxes. The main attraction is the superb north-facing wall of Grau des Ruc which offers some brilliant steep climbs in the 6c to 8a and above range. It does have an awkward approach but the effort is more than rewarded when you get to the crag. Additionally there are two other less interesting sectors; one roadside wall which looks good but it only partially developed and suffers from bust road noise; and one very steep cave with a few hard routes only. Technically these last two crags are known as S. de la Bella Donna but we have combined them all here into one listing since the parking spot is the same.

The crags mostly face north or northeast and give plenty of shade when it is hot. The sun lingers longer on Bella Donna Aparcamiento and Grau des Ruc Dreta. There may be some seepage after rain but this is unlikely to be too bad. Grau des Ruc and Es Salt will give dry climbing in the rain.

Approach notes

The crags are reached by following the Ma-2130 from Inca towards Lluc. Drive through Selva and follow the road through Caimari and past the Les Perxes crags. Continue for around 6km to a large cutting on a bend (this is around 200m after the 12km post on the roadside). Park just after the cutting underneath Bella Donna - Aparcamiento.

Es Salt - Walk back towards the cutting and find a steep via ferrata on the left. Go down this and follow a very vague path dowards and around to the cave.

Grau des Ruc - Walk back down the road through the cutting and turn immediately left after the cutting where there is a small cairn visible. Follow these cairns carefully steeply downwards over sharp rock for 15 mins until a steep down climb with ropes and metal rungs leads to the large crag.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Mallorca

The main guidebook to the climbing on the island for the last 20 years has been published by Rockfax and this new 2016 edition adds to this legacy with another blockbusting volume for the sun-seeking climber. The sport climbing is being written by Alan James and Mark Glaister, and the deep water soloing section is being written by Daimon Beail.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Bella Donna Aparcamiento 
2Project Sabor salido?  
3Coliflor women6c ** 
4Realidad paralela7b ** 
5Pasos de rellero7c+ * 
6Es salt7b * 
7Baixem una estrella6b *** 
8Decota decotador7c * 
9Tulipan7a * 
10Quint6a  
 Es Salt 
12Superferret7a+ ** 
13Kilometre 137b+ * 
14De malas a peor7b+ ** 
15Hotel glamour8b *** 
16El fari aparca8a+ *** 
17Papi chulo7c *** 
18Santa Bush7b ** 
19Poda d'altura7a+  
 Sector Esquerra 
21Porcona6c * 
22El fingidor d'orgasmes6c **1
23Las grupis6c+ ** 
24Na curta7a ** 
25Aixi es maten7a+ *** 
26Aixi Direct?  
27Decision Hit7a+ ***2
28Gold Single Traverse8a ** 
29Precision milimetrica7c ***1
30Vida facil7c+ * 
31Agresio fisica7c ** 
32Tira que ve peix7b+ ** 
33R.line7a+ * 
34Bingo7c * 
35Siracusa mon amour6c+ * 
36Zaratrusta7c+ *** 
37Ariestocrata8a+ ** 
38Qui tub retub8a+ *** 
39Ingravito?  
40Calladita estas mas guapa8a *** 
41Efecto mariposa8a *** 
42El justciero7c *** 
43Moscos fora7c *** 
44Te mataras7c ** 
45Es grau des ruc7b+ *** 
46Skiasical7c+ * 
47Coquito ergo sum8a * 
48Remate final7b+ * 
49Tramontana7b ** 
 Sector Dreta 
51El somriure de la bruixa7a+ * 
52Capiacua7a+ ** 
53Let's deux7a+ ** 
54No country for plafoneros7b ** 
55Tia aina7c+ ** 
56Project Colateral?  
57Sobrasada power8a * 
58A golpe de gas7c * 
59Perdiuota6c+ *** 
60Escalfament7b *** 
61Rallito7b ** 
62Tongo mongui7a ** 
 Routes Added from Rockfax Book 

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Alan James - UKC and UKH