Climbs 150
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 510m a.s.l
Faces SE

Tricky little number.......... © richard kirby

Crag features

A great set of crags in a sunny setting tucked away in the hills a few miles away from the hustle and bustle of the coast. There are half a dozen developed cliffs, and a great variety of climbing from short and slabby to steeply overhanging, and even some mini multi-pitch routes too. A good selection of the most popular routes is described, from off-vertical face-climbing on the Chez Pierrot to the popular (and hard!) tufa-wrestling routes of La Grotte.

The grey cliffs are sunny and rapid drying, and high enough to catch a bit of wind. A good winter venue and a possible location on cooler cloudy summer-days too. The caves provide some shelter from the sun and the rain, but seep in winter. 

Approach notes

The easiest approach is from La Turbie, which is just off the A8 motorway, junction 56 for Monaco. In the centre of La Turbie, turn north onto the minor road of the Route du Mont Agel (signed 'Peille') from the D2564 and follow this - narrow in places as it winds up into the hills. After 5.3km there is a left turn onto a wide dirt-track. A further 200m down the dirt track on the right, just round a bend, is the parking for Baus Roux and Chez Pierrot. 

To reach the parking for La Grotte and Sector Memorial Paul Arene, continue along the bendy road for 2.8km. Just past a right turn (the D22 to Ste Agnes), there is a sharp right bend just as the village of Peille comes into view. Just round this, turn left onto a dirt track. The car park is 100m down here. 

Guidebooks

France : Côte d'Azur

Côte d'Azur covers the famous cliffs of Calanques, Sainte Victoire and the Verdon and also includes some of the great venues around Toulon, the sunniest city in France. Plus there is the popular winter venue of Châteauvert, the less well known Esterel and Châteaudouble area. Add in Saint Jeannet and a selection of cliffs in the Nice area and this will become an essential volume for any climber.
More info
More Guidebooks:
L'Escalade dans les Alpes-Maritimes (2010)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 La Grotte 
2Toit de rennes6c * 
3Le pilier de vannes6c+ ***3
4Cent mille pattes7b ***5
5La croisière s'amuse8a *** 
6La discrète7a+ 6
7Suksan vanke7c *1
8La femme adultère7b+ ***5
9Inaal ding dingue dong7c+ **1
10Y'a pas d'arrangement8a ***5
11Y'a pas d'arrangement direct8a+ ***1
12Johnny guitar7b+ *3
13Coup de foudre7b+ ***10
14Paret7c ***5
15"Attention, danger"!8a * 
16Super croix8b+ ** 
17Das Boot8b ** 
18Rue gamma8c *** 
19A bout du souffle8b ***3
20Au bout de la rue8b+ ***1
21Le souffle du vizir8b+ ***1
22Le bazaar8b ** 
23Le grand bazaar8b+ *** 
24Souffle du ragga8b+ *** 
25Au bout de reauleau8b+ *** 
26Sans nom8b+ *** 
27Batman7c+ ***8
28Vizir8a+ ***1
29Saharagga8a+ ***2
30Dr. Batman8a+ ***1
31Dr. Buttman8b ** 
32A l'envers à l'endroit8a+ ***1
33Voyage au bout de la nuit8b ***1
34Le corbeau8a ***3
35Tout reste à faire8a **3
36La violence et le sacré7b ***4
37La guerre du feu7b ***12
38A lucie naon7a+ **4
39Captain Caverne7a+ ***13
40Goupil6c ***14
41La cinquième colonne6c+ *9
42Mathilde6b+ **8
43Vague à l'âme6a * 
44Porque te vas?6a+ **2
45À la place du cœur6b ***2
46Mille Yeux6c ** 
47L'escogriffeur6b+ ** 
48Huit ça suffit6c * 
 Mémorial Paul Arene 
50Sans nom
-
6a+ *** 
51Crucifix7b+ ** 
52La vista7a ***1
53Megawatt7c+ ** 
54Satanas et Diabolo7a+ ** 
55la trajectoire du vide7a+ ** 
56Comme elle vient7b ** 
57Sami7b+  
58Scoubidou...bidou6c+ ** 
59La poussinnette6c+ ** 
60Krispolls6b * 
61Quand y en a marre y'a malabar6b * 
62Cracote6b+ ** 
63Candidat albican6a+ ** 
64Talon aiguille6a+ ***5
65À droite à gauche6a+ ***2
66Woodpecker6b * 
67Tout de même6b ***7
68Quoi de neuf docteur7a ***4
69Mensonge romantique7a ***3
70Vérité romanesque6c+ ***3
71Princesse des étoiles7b ***4
72Mémorial Paul Arene7b ***4
73Marcos7b+ ** 
74Merci les pompiers7a+ ** 
75Gadjo dilo7b ** 
76La fracture7a+ **1
77L'enfant sauvage6c * 
78Radio Tarifa6c ** 
79L'indomptable7a ** 
 Derrière le Bloc 
81Décimètre6a **2
82Amuse gueule5c **2
83Mon'tit piton6b **1
84Faites des pères6b *** 
85Neuf mois pour un rêve6b+ ***1
86Ueffedeu6b ***3
87A cloche marteau6b+ *** 
88Quoi de neuf docteur6b ***1
89Jacky barre team6b ***1
90Vire illimitée6b ***1
91Urga6b ***2
92Le livre de la jungle6b+ *** 
93Le mystère demeure6b *** 
94Tombe du ciel6b ***2
95Carte blanche6b ***4
96The righteous path6b+ ***2
97Roc ébranlé7a ***10
98Joue de lune7b+ ***2
99Une briz pour deux cap6c+ ***5
 Chez Pierrot 
101Chant de florette7b ***2
102Ma Doudou6b+ ***4
103Carottage6b ***3
104Le nyctalope6b ***6
105Axurl beltza6a+ ***2
106Arc-en-ciel6b+ ***2
107Le piege aux 100,000 dards6c ***5
108Epination des mains6a ***12
109Les écailles ont des ailes?6a ***12
110Ça va peillonner5c ***12
111Gad'a pan6b ***1
112Rock a bloc6a+ ** 
113Pour le meilleur et le pire6c+ **1
114Foupouda7c *** 
115Hemeralope6c+ ***2
116Hanna bee6b+ ***2
117Strike6c ***1
118Mistral sanglant5c **2
 Baus Roux 
120Le guêpier5c *1
121La Grande Muraille6a+ * 
122Diou lou faguet6a+ ** 
123Pro cre action6a **3
124Merguez party5c **5
125Les p'tits charognards6a ***5
126Voyage éclair6c+ ***1
127M comme puce6b+ ***2
128Besoin de toi5c ***3
129Scorde5c ***3
130Passage à l'acte5c ***4
131Vengo6a+ **1
132Mon amie la rose6a+ ***3
133Corbaco baskets6a ***2
134Birdy6a+ ***3
135Pipistrelle5a *5
136Le renard et la belette6a+ *** 
137Pitte fourmigue5c ***5
138Shark6a+ **5
139Danse entre les clous6a **2
140Monsieur Bulot6a+ **3
141Une souris verte5a **3
142Apolitique6a **1
143Cul sec6b+ ***2
144Wasa6a ***1
145La paille en queue7a **3
146La porte du nirvana6c+ ***3
147Confiture de bouse6c ***2
148Dante edo igo6c ***1
 La Bombe 
150Octobre rouge7a+ ** 
151Poppa chubby8a+ **2
152Nirvana7a ***3
153Scorpio7b+ **1
154Le petit mulot7b+ ** 
155Petite puce7a+ ** 
156Skating Joe7a ** 

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