Altitude 510m a.s.l
Tricky little number.......... © richard kirby
A great set of crags in a sunny setting tucked away in the hills a few miles away from the hustle and bustle of the coast. There are half a dozen developed cliffs, and a great variety of climbing from short and slabby to steeply overhanging, and even some mini multi-pitch routes too. A good selection of the most popular routes is described, from off-vertical face-climbing on the Chez Pierrot to the popular (and hard!) tufa-wrestling routes of La Grotte.
The grey cliffs are sunny and rapid drying, and high enough to catch a bit of wind. A good winter venue and a possible location on cooler cloudy summer-days too. The caves provide some shelter from the sun and the rain, but seep in winter.
The easiest approach is from La Turbie, which is just off the A8 motorway, junction 56 for Monaco. In the centre of La Turbie, turn north onto the minor road of the Route du Mont Agel (signed 'Peille') from the D2564 and follow this - narrow in places as it winds up into the hills. After 5.3km there is a left turn onto a wide dirt-track. A further 200m down the dirt track on the right, just round a bend, is the parking for Baus Roux and Chez Pierrot.
To reach the parking for La Grotte and Sector Memorial Paul Arene, continue along the bendy road for 2.8km. Just past a right turn (the D22 to Ste Agnes), there is a sharp right bend just as the village of Peille comes into view. Just round this, turn left onto a dirt track. The car park is 100m down here.
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