Climbs 180
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 510m a.s.l
Faces SE

Tricky little number.......... © richard kirby

Crag features

A great set of crags in a sunny setting tucked away in the hills a few miles away from the hustle and bustle of the coast. There are half a dozen developed cliffs, and a great variety of climbing from short and slabby to steeply overhanging, and even some mini multi-pitch routes too. A good selection of the most popular routes is described, from off-vertical face-climbing on the Chez Pierrot to the popular (and hard!) tufa-wrestling routes of La Grotte.

The grey cliffs are sunny and rapid drying, and high enough to catch a bit of wind. A good winter venue and a possible location on cooler cloudy summer-days too. The caves provide some shelter from the sun and the rain, but seep in winter. 

Approach notes

The easiest approach is from La Turbie, which is just off the A8 motorway, junction 56 for Monaco. In the centre of La Turbie, turn north onto Route du Mont Agel (signed 'Peille') from the D2564 and follow this uphill (narrow in places) going left at the first hairpin bend (instead of going straight towards the golf course). For Derriere le Bloc, Chez Pierrot, Chez Grand Bernard, Baus Roux and La Bombe: turn left after 5.3km (where the road is very straight and there is a sign for "Dechetterie" - which means "Rubbish Tip"). Either park here on the left or continue downhill and round the bend (Tip on the right) and park on the righjt.From the south end of the car park, follow the footpath downhill for about 10 mins. About 100m after crossing the bridge a path on the right leads up towards the crags. You arrive at Chez Pierrot after approximately 15 mins. There is a much shorter path: from the car park walk past the obvious footpath sign and continue past the 1st house. A small path leads through the trees on the right. This takes you down to join the main footpath just above the bridge.

To reach the parking for La Grotte, Memorial Paul Arene and Chez Petit Bernard, continue along the bendy road for another 2.8km. Just past a right turn (the D22 to Ste Agnes), there is a sharp right bend just as the village of Peille comes into view. Just round this, turn left onto a dirt track. The car park is 100m down here. The well worn path path leads steadily uphill for about 15 mins then downhill for another 10 mins to a junction where you must go left for approx 50 m to a gully that leads down between La Grotte and Paul Arene. At the bottom of the gully, Paul Arene is on your left and continue round to the right for La Grotte. For Chez Petit Bernard go left past Paul Arene.

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Guidebooks

France : Côte d'Azur

Côte d'Azur covers the famous cliffs of Calanques, Sainte Victoire and the Verdon and also includes some of the great venues around Toulon, the sunniest city in France. Plus there is the popular winter venue of Châteauvert, the less well known Esterel and Châteaudouble area. Add in Saint Jeannet and a selection of cliffs in the Nice area and this will become an essential volume for any climber.
More info
More Guidebooks:
L'Escalade dans les Alpes-Maritimes (2010)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 La Grotte 
2Toit de rennes6c * 
3Le pilier de vannes6c+ ***3
4Cent mille pattes7b ***5
5La croisière s'amuse8a *** 
6La discrète7a+ 6
7Suksan vanke7c *1
8La femme adultère7b+ ***5
9Inaal ding dingue dong7c+ **1
10Y'a pas d'arrangement8a ***5
11Y'a pas d'arrangement direct8a+ ***1
12Johnny guitar7b+ *3
13Coup de foudre7b+ ***10
14Paret7c ***5
15"Attention, danger"!8a * 
16Super croix8b+ ** 
17Das Boot8b ** 
18Rue gamma8c *** 
19A bout du souffle8b ***3
20Au bout de la rue8b+ ***1
21Le souffle du vizir8b+ ***1
22Le bazaar8b ** 
23Le grand bazaar8b+ *** 
24Souffle du ragga8b+ *** 
25Au bout de reauleau8b+ *** 
26Sans nom8b+ *** 
27Batman7c+ ***8
28Vizir8a+ ***1
29Saharagga8a+ ***2
30Dr. Batman8a+ ***1
31Dr. Buttman8b ** 
32A l'envers à l'endroit8a+ ***1
33Voyage au bout de la nuit8b ***1
34Le corbeau8a ***3
35Tout reste à faire8a **3
36La violence et le sacré7b ***4
37La guerre du feu7b ***12
38A lucie naon7a+ **4
39Captain Caverne7a+ ***13
40Goupil6c ***14
41La cinquième colonne6c+ *9
42Mathilde6b+ **8
43Vague à l'âme6a * 
44Porque te vas?6a+ **2
45À la place du cœur6b ***2
46Mille Yeux6c ** 
47L'escogriffeur6b+ ** 
48Huit ça suffit6c * 
 Mémorial Paul Arene 
50Sans nom
-
6a+ *** 
51Crucifix7b+ ** 
52La vista7a ***1
53Megawatt7c+ ** 
54Satanas et Diabolo7a+ ** 
55la trajectoire du vide7a+ ** 
56Comme elle vient7b ** 
57Sami7b+  
58Scoubidou...bidou6c+ ** 
59La poussinnette6c+ ** 
60Krispolls6b * 
61Quand y en a marre y'a malabar6b * 
62Cracote6b+ ** 
63Candidat albican6a+ ** 
64Talon aiguille6a+ ***7
65À droite à gauche6a+ ***4
66Woodpecker6b *1
67Tout de même6b ***8
68Quoi de neuf docteur7a ***5
69Mensonge romantique7a ***4
70Vérité romanesque6c+ ***3
71Princesse des étoiles7b ***4
72Mémorial Paul Arene7b ***4
73Marcos7b+ ** 
74Merci les pompiers7a+ ** 
75Gadjo dilo7b ** 
76La fracture7a+ **1
77L'enfant sauvage6c * 
78Radio Tarifa6c ** 
79L'indomptable7a ** 
 Chez Petit Bernard 
81Enculator
-
7b+  
82Le Rhino C'est Rose
-
6b  
83Cul Sec 2
-
7a  
84Un Elephant Ca Trompe Enormement
-
7c+  
85Il En A Deux Enormes
-
8b  
86Le Coince Fesses
-
6c  
87Le Coince Fesses A Gauche
-
7a+  
88Lache La Puree
-
7a  
89Wonder Marmotte
-
6b+  
90Un BacDe Trop
-
6c  
91Martine N'est Pas Niquaise
-
5c  
 Derrière le Bloc 
93Décimètre6a **4
94Amuse gueule5c **3
95Mon'tit piton6b **1
96Faites des pères6b ***1
97Neuf mois pour un rêve6b+ ***3
98Ueffedeu6b ***3
99A cloche marteau6b+ *** 
100Quoi de neuf docteur6b ***3
101Jacky barre team6b ***3
102Vire illimitée6b ***2
103Urga6b ***3
104Le livre de la jungle6b+ ***1
105Le mystère demeure6b *** 
106Tombe du ciel6b ***2
107Carte blanche6b ***5
108The righteous path6b+ ***3
109Roc ébranlé7a ***11
110Joue de lune7b+ ***4
111Une briz pour deux cap6c+ ***7
 Chez Pierrot 
113Chant de florette7b ***3
114Ma Doudou6b+ ***5
115Carottage6b ***5
116Le nyctalope6b ***9
117Axurl beltza6a+ ***5
118Arc-en-ciel6b+ ***4
119Le piege aux 100,000 dards6c ***7
120Epination des mains6a ***15
121Les écailles ont des ailes?6a ***13
122Ça va peillonner5c ***13
123Gad'a pan6b ***2
124Rock a bloc6a+ **2
125Pour le meilleur et le pire6c+ **2
126Foupouda7c *** 
127Hemeralope6c+ ***3
128Hanna bee6b+ ***3
129Strike6c ***2
130Mistral sanglant5c **2
 Chez Grand Bernard 
13216a  
13326c  
13436a+  
13547a+ ***1
1364 + extension7b ***1
1375
-
7a ***1
1386
-
6b **1
1397
-
6b **1
1407 + extension7b  
1418
-
6c  
1428 + Extension 1
-
7a  
1438 + Extension 2
-
7b+  
1449
-
6c  
1459 + Extension
-
7c  
14610
-
6c **1
14710 + Extension
-
7a+ **1
14811
-
6a  
14911 + Extension
-
7a+  
150126a  
 Baus Roux 
152Le guêpier5c *1
153La Grande Muraille6a+ * 
154Diou lou faguet6a+ ** 
155Pro cre action6a **3
156Merguez party5c **5
157Les p'tits charognards6a ***5
158Voyage éclair6c+ ***1
159M comme puce6b+ ***2
160Besoin de toi5c ***3
161Scorde5c ***3
162Passage à l'acte5c ***4
163Vengo6a+ **1
164Mon amie la rose6a+ ***4
165Corbaco baskets6a ***2
166Birdy6a+ ***3
167Pipistrelle5a *5
168Le renard et la belette6a+ *** 
169Pitte fourmigue5c ***5
170Shark6a+ **5
171Danse entre les clous6a **2
172Monsieur Bulot6a+ **3
173Une souris verte5a **3
174Apolitique6a **1
175Cul sec6b+ ***2
176Wasa6a ***2
177La paille en queue7a **3
178La porte du nirvana6c+ ***4
179Confiture de bouse6c ***2
180Dante edo igo6c ***1
 La Bombe 
182Octobre rouge7a+ ** 
183Poppa chubby8a+ **2
184Nirvana7a ***3
185Scorpio7b+ **1
186Le petit mulot7b+ ** 
187Petite puce7a+ ** 
188Skating Joe7a ** 

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