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Craigpark QuarryMidlothian, SCOTLAND
Climbs 11 – Rocktype UNKNOWN – Altitude 86m a.s.l – Faces SE
A little overview for potential new routers:
Distant buttress - I haven't investigated this as it looks as though most of it will be buried when the place is backfilled if the architectural plans are anything to go by.
Raven Buttress - This has some areas of good clean rock but there is a lot of looser stuff lying around at the moment. Top outs are not a problem here as the area above has been planted with trees so belays are plentiful. A few hours with a rockhammer could give at least 20 routes in the lower grades.
Bay Area - Very sheltered little alcove with some nice compact walls but the top metre of the crag consists entirely of cheese - a candidate either for bolt belays or low grade sport routes if ever you saw one. One sport route so far.
The Watchtower - the obvious buttress - rock is compact and clean but a few loose turfy lumps could do with shifting on abseil before an ascent. Top out here is less of a problem and there are good tree belays above.
The Avenue - round the corner from the watchtower is a steep slab with trees at it's base. The slabs behind the trees are very compact - one excellent slab route here so far, but the bay area cheese makes a reappearance for the top metre. 2 tricky slab lines bolted (both closed projects) so far. Also potential here for around 3-4 more tricky little slabby sport routes.
Pipe Wall - the more open wall, very obvious from ratho when the leaves are off the trees. An old pipeline runs down the right hand side. another nice compact crimpy slab with a cheeseband at the top - 3 bolt lines so far with potential for 3-4 new lines.
Climbs at this crag
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