View larger mapGrid Ref NT 127707 (OS Landranger #65)

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These details were last updated on 13/Jul/2014

Craigpark Quarry

Midlothian, SCOTLAND

Climbs 11 – Rocktype UNKNOWN – Altitude 86m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
Huge undeveloped crag just over the canal from EICA Ratho, lots of loose rock at the moment but also lots of potential for new routing for keen beans. Quarry is currently being landscaped so the vista should hopefully improve.

A little overview for potential new routers:

Distant buttress - I haven't investigated this as it looks as though most of it will be buried when the place is backfilled if the architectural plans are anything to go by.

Raven Buttress - This has some areas of good clean rock but there is a lot of looser stuff lying around at the moment. Top outs are not a problem here as the area above has been planted with trees so belays are plentiful. A few hours with a rockhammer could give at least 20 routes in the lower grades.

Bay Area - Very sheltered little alcove with some nice compact walls but the top metre of the crag consists entirely of cheese - a candidate either for bolt belays or low grade sport routes if ever you saw one. One sport route so far.

The Watchtower - the obvious buttress - rock is compact and clean but a few loose turfy lumps could do with shifting on abseil before an ascent. Top out here is less of a problem and there are good tree belays above.

The Avenue - round the corner from the watchtower is a steep slab with trees at it's base. The slabs behind the trees are very compact - one excellent slab route here so far, but the bay area cheese makes a reappearance for the top metre. 2 tricky slab lines bolted (both closed projects) so far. Also potential here for around 3-4 more tricky little slabby sport routes.

Pipe Wall - the more open wall, very obvious from ratho when the leaves are off the trees. An old pipeline runs down the right hand side. another nice compact crimpy slab with a cheeseband at the top - 3 bolt lines so far with potential for 3-4 new lines.

Access notes
Park at EICA Ratho or hop the fence at the last bus stop on the main road in ratho and follow the good track down past the old weighbridge.

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
3Little MissS 4a *1
4Stacked Block RouteD 1
5AmbleD 1
7Circus Trick6b ***1
9Technical MisterV1 5c 1
 Climb nameGradex
11Park Life6b+ ***2
12Slab LH [closed project]Project  
13Slab RH [closed project]Project  
15Parkin Ride6b **1
16Cakewalk6a+ *1
17The Pie-d Piper6a *1
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