Falcon Crack first ascent © Alex Riley
Rhinog Fawr South Faces is a collective name for a large number of compact crags dotted on the lower south face of Rhinog Fawr, with lots of established climbing, esoteric bouldering and new routing potential.
Falcon Crack is located on a small outcrop called Carreg y Gwalch, much further up the hillside in comparison to the other routes.
This area is not featured in the current guide (Meirionnydd 2002).
Park at the Cwm Nantcol roadhead near Maes Y Garnedd farm (£2 parking fee to be paid at the farm). Follow the Bwlch Drws Ardudwy path and turn off left and determinedly bushwhack through bogs, heather, bilberries and bracken to reach a steep scree/boulderfield. Follow this (not easy) until the larger crags are reached.
*** Voluntary Bird Ban: STRICTLY NO CLIMBING ON CARREG Y GWALCH DURING THE PEREGRINE BREEDING/ NESTING SEASON - normally 1st Feb. - 31st July. Outside these dates, please apply common sense if birds are present and appear seriously alarmed by your presence. If you suspect that there is a peregrine nesting on the crag, then please climb elsewhere.
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