Less of a dome, more of a series of overlapping steep slabs and grooves, this roadside crag offers interesting technical climbing in the low extremes, and some pleasant easier routes on attractive wavy rock.
Being only 15 minutes drive from Fort William, it's actually quicker to get to than many Polldubh crags, and deserves more attention. There is new route potential for someone with a wirebrush and some boldness.
The main belay is a good large nut / cam slot in the top of the dome, above a wee scramble up slabs - it is recommended to tie a doubled-up spare rope to this, and drop one end towards the road and one end towards the gully, to provide easier belaying/abseiling.
Park in the layby just past the Railway Buttress layby, next to a new metal barrier. Walk up the road 150m, hop across the stream, cross the railway, and straight up to the crag. 5 mins.
The tempting public transport option of getting the Mallaig train and pulling the emergency stop cord beneath the crag should be avoided - the crag is in full view of the train and you'd certainly get fined.
|4||Ramp and Crack||E3 5c *||1|
|5||Clementine||E5 6a **|
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|Ramp And Crack, Clementine Variant, Manic Laughter and Overhang And Groove all climbed July 2014. ML and OAG previously cleaned by Andy Nisbet early 2014.|
Fiend - 25/Jul/14
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