Climbs 75 – Rocktype Greenstone – Altitude Tidal – Faces S

Crag features
Greenstone, not granite - the only one on the Cornish south coast. Good protection and belays. Most routes in the sub-E1 grades, with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 160ft. Your ticklist should include Martell Slab (VS 4b).

Access notes
Tidal at the base of the Main Face and Sentry Box; accessible three hours either side of low tide.

Beware the random but uncommon 70-decibel blasts from the nearby lighthouse.

Park at Lamorna Cove (SW 450238) and follow the coastal path for a mile W. The cliff is just W of the lighthouse.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), West Cornwall & Supplement (2000),
Out of print: Chair Ladder and the South Coast (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Martell SlabVS 4c ***
2The RambleVD
3PericlesHVS 5a *
4Commando SpecialVS 4c *
5Crow's Nest OrdinaryHS 4b *
6Crow's Nest DirectHVS 5b *
7The Rabbit RunVD
8Willie's WayHVS 5a *
9Pericles you bastardVS 4c
10LysanderE1 5b
11gully routeS
12HeadhunterE1 5a
13DornaHS 4b
14Andy's RouteHVS 4c
15The VeilE1 5a
16Lamorna WallE2 5c *
17Knight's PillarVS 4c
18Bus RouteVD
19Pregnant PauseS *
20Taking It EasyHS 4b
21Commando SlabVS 4c *
22Fat PandaS 4a
23Eric's RouteVD
24Western NationalD
25The Sentry BoxS *
26SmirklesHVS 4c
27Andy's directE1 5b
28RobynHS 4b
29SiE1 5b
31GrumbleVS 5a
32MeanHVS 5b
33BusyVS 5a
34FunnyS 4a
35BounceHVS 5a
36WorryE2 5c
38ChatterboxS 4a
39CheerfulVS 4c
40MischiefE2 5b
41BumpE1 5b
42HappyS 4a
43NoseyE1 5c
44TickleVS 4c
45CoolE2 5b
46DizzyHVS 5a
47JellyE2 5c
48SneezeVS 4c
49UppityS 4a
50RushHS 4a
51NeatVS 5a
54ShyVS 4b
58LuckyE1 5c
62FenugreekVS 5a *
63Whose Army?HVS 4c
64StubbornE1 5b
65FickleHVS 5a
66TidyE1 5b
67A Cornish SummerE2 5b
68A Bunny on the RoofHVS 5a
69Marine ParadeVD
70AirfixHVS 5b
71Just Du ItVS 4c
72Knights Move *VS 4c
73Flaky Wall *VS 4c
74Head Hunter *E1 5a
75Final Touch *HVS 5a
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer fly or die

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The grades and descriptions for the new mini-routes on the Seaward Craglets and in Lighthouse Zawn are mostly correct, but there are one or two errors. For example, Sunshine (in the Zawn) is a pleasant VD, not VS. I will try to get all remaining mistakes corrected.
bpmclimb - 15/May/14
The new stuff from Brian Mullen and others here is pretty short, but really worthwhile. If you want a low stress, non-tidal day out in a gorgeous, sunny and quiet setting, then you could do a whole lot worse. Like a mini Cornish version of Reiff. Good stuff.
Tom Last - 22/Nov/13