Phil Beddow on the first pich of Martell Slab © henry castle
The only greenstone crag on the Cornish south coast. Protection and belays are generally good. Many routes are in the lower grades, with both single and multi-pitch routes up to 160ft. Don't miss the classic Martell Slab (VS 4c).
Beware the random (but mercifully rare) 70-decibel blasts from the lighthouse.
Park at Lamorna Cove (SW 450238). Warning: £7 parking fee!! Follow the coast path west for about a mile to reach some steps leading down to a lighthouse; the main crag lies just west of this. The convenient approach down the lighthouse steps is not allowed: the legitimate (and rather more tortuous) western approach is described in the CC guidebook.
Western Buttresses are well above the sea. It is distinctly tidal at the base of the Main Face, which is accessible approximately three hours either side of low tide (in calm conditions). It is also tidal, but somewhat less so, in the Sentry Box area. Seaward Craglets are non-tidal. Only the first 5 routes in Lighthouse Zawn are tidal but the other routes can be affected by waves. The Eastern Walls area is mostly non-tidal.
|First visit here. Nice crag, reminds me of Pembroke range west in terms of rock-type/terrain. Climbs are great and despite the cracks its all pretty solid. Tried to follow the descent in the old CC book on the far left but had to abseil the last bit (new maillon, June 2015, with newish looking sling). Big put off was the car park charge - £7.00 all day was pretty steep! But if you want seclusion then this is your crag!|
partz - 21/Jun/15
|The grades and descriptions for the new mini-routes on the Seaward Craglets and in Lighthouse Zawn are mostly correct, but there are one or two errors. For example, Sunshine (in the Zawn) is a pleasant VD, not VS. I will try to get all remaining mistakes corrected.|
bpmclimb - 15/May/14
|The new stuff from Brian Mullen and others here is pretty short, but really worthwhile. If you want a low stress, non-tidal day out in a gorgeous, sunny and quiet setting, then you could do a whole lot worse. Like a mini Cornish version of Reiff. Good stuff.|
Tom Last - 22/Nov/13