Phil Beddow on the first pich of Martell Slab © henry castle
Greenstone, not granite - the only one on the Cornish south coast. Good protection and belays. Most routes in the sub-E1 grades, with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 160ft. Your ticklist should include Martell Slab (VS 4b).
Tidal at the base of the Main Face and Sentry Box; accessible three hours either side of low tide.
Beware the random but uncommon 70-decibel blasts from the nearby lighthouse.
Park at Lamorna Cove (SW 450238) and follow the coastal path for a mile W. The cliff is just W of the lighthouse.
|First visit here. Nice crag, reminds me of Pembroke range west in terms of rock-type/terrain. Climbs are great and despite the cracks its all pretty solid. Tried to follow the descent in the old CC book on the far left but had to abseil the last bit (new maillon, June 2015, with newish looking sling). Big put off was the car park charge - £7.00 all day was pretty steep! But if you want seclusion then this is your crag!|
partz - 21/Jun/15
|The grades and descriptions for the new mini-routes on the Seaward Craglets and in Lighthouse Zawn are mostly correct, but there are one or two errors. For example, Sunshine (in the Zawn) is a pleasant VD, not VS. I will try to get all remaining mistakes corrected.|
bpmclimb - 15/May/14
|The new stuff from Brian Mullen and others here is pretty short, but really worthwhile. If you want a low stress, non-tidal day out in a gorgeous, sunny and quiet setting, then you could do a whole lot worse. Like a mini Cornish version of Reiff. Good stuff.|
Tom Last - 22/Nov/13