Climbs 75
Rocktype Greenstone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Phil Beddow on the first pich of Martell Slab © henry castle

Crag features

Greenstone, not granite - the only one on the Cornish south coast. Good protection and belays. Most routes in the sub-E1 grades, with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 160ft. Your ticklist should include Martell Slab (VS 4b).

Approach notes

Tidal at the base of the Main Face and Sentry Box; accessible three hours either side of low tide.

Beware the random but uncommon 70-decibel blasts from the nearby lighthouse.

Park at Lamorna Cove (SW 450238) and follow the coastal path for a mile W. The cliff is just W of the lighthouse.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
First visit here. Nice crag, reminds me of Pembroke range west in terms of rock-type/terrain. Climbs are great and despite the cracks its all pretty solid. Tried to follow the descent in the old CC book on the far left but had to abseil the last bit (new maillon, June 2015, with newish looking sling). Big put off was the car park charge - £7.00 all day was pretty steep! But if you want seclusion then this is your crag!
partz - 21/Jun/15
The grades and descriptions for the new mini-routes on the Seaward Craglets and in Lighthouse Zawn are mostly correct, but there are one or two errors. For example, Sunshine (in the Zawn) is a pleasant VD, not VS. I will try to get all remaining mistakes corrected.
bpmclimb - 15/May/14
The new stuff from Brian Mullen and others here is pretty short, but really worthwhile. If you want a low stress, non-tidal day out in a gorgeous, sunny and quiet setting, then you could do a whole lot worse. Like a mini Cornish version of Reiff. Good stuff.
Tom Last - 22/Nov/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Martell SlabVS 4c ***73
2The Ramble
VD 6
HVS 5a *6
4Commando Special
VS 4c *12
5Crow's Nest OrdinaryHS 4b *32
6Crow's Nest Direct
HVS 5b *4
7The Rabbit Run
8Willie's Way
HVS 5a *5
9Pericles you bastardVS 4c 1
E1 5b 3
11gully route
S 10
E1 5a 4
HS 4b 9
14Andy's RouteHVS 4c 5
15The Veil
E1 5a 3
16Lamorna Wall
E2 5c *5
17Knight's Pillar
VS 4c 2
18Bus Route
VD 3
19Pregnant PauseS *3
20Taking It Easy
HS 4b 3
21Commando Slab
VS 4c *1
22Fat PandaS 4a 8
23Eric's RouteVD 10
24Western NationalD 4
25The Sentry BoxS *9
26SmirklesHVS 4c 2
27Andy's directE1 5b 2
28RobynHS 4b 1
29SiE1 5b 2
30LazyVD 2
31GrumbleVS 5a 2
32MeanHVS 5b 3
33BusyVS 5a 4
34FunnyS 4a 3
35BounceHVS 5a 1
36WorryE2 5c 2
37SkinnyVD 2
38ChatterboxS 4a 4
39CheerfulVS 4c 1
40MischiefE2 5b 2
41BumpE1 5b 2
42HappyS 4a 4
43NoseyE1 5c 1
44TickleVS 4c 1
45CoolE2 5b 2
46DizzyHVS 5a 1
47JellyE2 5c 2
48SneezeVS 4c 4
49UppityS 4a 4
50RushHS 4a 1
51NeatVS 5a 2
52MagicVD 1
53SplendidVD 1
54ShyVS 4b 1
55CarefulS 1
56CuriousM 1
57ContraryVD 1
58LuckyE1 5c 2
59PrimS 1
60SunshineVS 3
61ScatterbrainVD 1
62FenugreekVS 5a *1
63Whose Army?HVS 4c 1
64StubbornE1 5b 2
65FickleHVS 5a 2
66TidyE1 5b 2
67A Cornish SummerE2 5b 2
68A Bunny on the RoofHVS 5a 1
69Marine Parade
VD 3
70AirfixHVS 5b 1
71Just Du It
VS 4c 1
72Knights Move *
VS 4c 1
73Flaky Wall *
VS 4c 2
74Head Hunter *
E1 5a 2
75Final Touch *HVS 5a 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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