Climbs 75 – Rocktype Greenstone – Altitude Tidal – Faces S

Crag features
Greenstone, not granite - the only one on the Cornish south coast. Good protection and belays. Most routes in the sub-E1 grades, with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 160ft. Your ticklist should include Martell Slab (VS 4b).

Access notes
Tidal at the base of the Main Face and Sentry Box; accessible three hours either side of low tide.

Beware the random but uncommon 70-decibel blasts from the nearby lighthouse.

Park at Lamorna Cove (SW 450238) and follow the coastal path for a mile W. The cliff is just W of the lighthouse.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), West Cornwall & Supplement (2000),
Out of print: Chair Ladder and the South Coast (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Martell SlabVS 4c ***64
2The RambleVD 6
3PericlesHVS 5a *6
4Commando SpecialVS 4c *7
5Crow's Nest OrdinaryHS 4b *28
6Crow's Nest DirectHVS 5b *4
7The Rabbit RunVD  
8Willie's WayHVS 5a *4
9Pericles you bastardVS 4c 1
10LysanderE1 5b 3
11gully routeS 8
12HeadhunterE1 5a 4
13DornaHS 4b 7
14Andy's RouteHVS 4c 5
15The VeilE1 5a 3
16Lamorna WallE2 5c *3
17Knight's PillarVS 4c 2
18Bus RouteVD 2
19Pregnant PauseS *3
20Taking It EasyHS 4b 3
21Commando SlabVS 4c * 
22Fat PandaS 4a 2
23Eric's RouteVD 2
24Western NationalD 3
25The Sentry BoxS *5
26SmirklesHVS 4c 2
27Andy's directE1 5b 2
28RobynHS 4b 1
29SiE1 5b 2
30LazyVD 2
31GrumbleVS 5a 2
32MeanHVS 5b 3
33BusyVS 5a 4
34FunnyS 4a 3
35BounceHVS 5a 1
36WorryE2 5c 2
37SkinnyVD 2
38ChatterboxS 4a 3
39CheerfulVS 4c 1
40MischiefE2 5b 2
41BumpE1 5b 2
42HappyS 4a 4
43NoseyE1 5c 1
44TickleVS 4c 1
45CoolE2 5b 2
46DizzyHVS 5a 1
47JellyE2 5c 2
48SneezeVS 4c 4
49UppityS 4a 4
50RushHS 4a 1
51NeatVS 5a 2
52MagicVD 1
53SplendidVD 1
54ShyVS 4b 1
55CarefulS 1
56CuriousM 1
57ContraryVD 1
58LuckyE1 5c 2
59PrimS 1
60SunshineVS 3
61ScatterbrainVD 1
62FenugreekVS 5a *1
63Whose Army?HVS 4c 1
64StubbornE1 5b 2
65FickleHVS 5a 2
66TidyE1 5b 2
67A Cornish SummerE2 5b 2
68A Bunny on the RoofHVS 5a 1
69Marine ParadeVD 3
70AirfixHVS 5b 1
71Just Du ItVS 4c 1
72Knights Move *VS 4c 1
73Flaky Wall *VS 4c 1
74Head Hunter *E1 5a 2
75Final Touch *HVS 5a 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer fly or die

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The grades and descriptions for the new mini-routes on the Seaward Craglets and in Lighthouse Zawn are mostly correct, but there are one or two errors. For example, Sunshine (in the Zawn) is a pleasant VD, not VS. I will try to get all remaining mistakes corrected.
bpmclimb - 15/May/14
The new stuff from Brian Mullen and others here is pretty short, but really worthwhile. If you want a low stress, non-tidal day out in a gorgeous, sunny and quiet setting, then you could do a whole lot worse. Like a mini Cornish version of Reiff. Good stuff.
Tom Last - 22/Nov/13