Climbs 93
Rocktype Greenstone

Faces S

Phil Beddow on the first pich of Martell Slab © henry castle

Crag features

The only greenstone crag on the Cornish south coast. Protection and belays are generally good. Many routes are in the lower grades, with both single and multi-pitch routes up to 160ft. Don't miss the classic Martell Slab (VS 4c).

Beware the random (but mercifully rare) 70-decibel blasts from the lighthouse.

 

Approach notes

Park at Lamorna Cove (SW 450238). Warning: £7 parking fee!!  Follow the coast path west for about a mile to reach some steps leading down to a lighthouse; the main crag lies just west of this. The convenient approach down the lighthouse steps is not allowed: the legitimate (and rather more tortuous) western approach is described in the CC guidebook.

Western Buttresses are well above the sea. It is distinctly tidal at the base of the Main Face, which is accessible approximately three hours either side of low tide (in calm conditions). It is also tidal, but somewhat less so, in the Sentry Box area. Seaward Craglets are non-tidal. Only the first 5 routes in Lighthouse Zawn are tidal but the other routes can be affected by waves. The Eastern Walls area is mostly non-tidal.

 

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
First visit here. Nice crag, reminds me of Pembroke range west in terms of rock-type/terrain. Climbs are great and despite the cracks its all pretty solid. Tried to follow the descent in the old CC book on the far left but had to abseil the last bit (new maillon, June 2015, with newish looking sling). Big put off was the car park charge - £7.00 all day was pretty steep! But if you want seclusion then this is your crag!
partz - 21/Jun/15
The grades and descriptions for the new mini-routes on the Seaward Craglets and in Lighthouse Zawn are mostly correct, but there are one or two errors. For example, Sunshine (in the Zawn) is a pleasant VD, not VS. I will try to get all remaining mistakes corrected.
bpmclimb - 15/May/14
The new stuff from Brian Mullen and others here is pretty short, but really worthwhile. If you want a low stress, non-tidal day out in a gorgeous, sunny and quiet setting, then you could do a whole lot worse. Like a mini Cornish version of Reiff. Good stuff.
Tom Last - 22/Nov/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Western Buttresses 
2Sitting TenantVD  
3A Cornish SummerE2 5b 5
4Whose Army?HVS 4c 2
5RobynHS 4b 2
6SiE1 5b 3
7A Honey in the MeadowHVS 5b  
8Sitting ComfortablyVD  
9Taking It Easy
-
HS 4b 5
10A Bunny on the RoofHVS 5a 1
 Main Face 
12Bedrock ChimneyVD  
13Pericles you bastardVS 4c 1
14Knight's MoveVS 4c 1
15Knight's PillarVS 4c 2
16CheckmateHVS 5a  
17Just Du ItVS 4c 1
18PericlesHVS 5a *10
19LysanderE1 5b 3
20Western NationalD 4
21Commando Special
-
VS 4c *14
22Rook's FollyHVS 5a  
23Crow's Nest OrdinaryHS 4b *32
24Gully Route
-
S 4a 10
25Crow's Nest Direct
-
HVS 5b *4
26Martell SlabVS 4c ***99
27Martell Slab SuperdirectE1 5a  
28Martell Slab DirectE1 5a  
29Martell Slab Direct FinishE1 5a  
30Martell GrooveHVS 4c  
31The Tram LineE2 5c  
32Lamorna Wall
-
E2 5c *5
33Martell Slab/Lamorna Wall connectorHVS 5a  
34The Water MarginE4 6b  
35Lamorna Wall Left-hand VariationHVS 5a  
36The Veil
-
E1 5a 3
37Eric's RouteVD 10
38The Rabbit Run
-
VD  
39Fat PandaS 4a 8
40The Ramble
-
VD 6
41Willie's Way
-
HVS 5a *5
42Bus Route
-
VD 3
43Flaky WallVS 4c 2
44Raven's Nest DirectE1 5b  
45Marine Parade
-
VD 3
 Dorna Wall 
47Final TouchHVS 5a 2
48The Sentry BoxS *9
49Somewhere Two Cats are WaitingHVS 5a  
50Pregnant PauseS *3
51SmirklesHVS 4c 3
52Dorna
-
HS 4b 10
53Head HunterHVS 5a 6
54Andy's RouteHVS 4c 5
55Andy's directE1 5b 3
 Seaward Craglets 
57LazyD 4
58GrumbleVS 5a 2
59MeanHVS 5b 3
60AirfixHVS 5b 3
61BusyVS 5a 6
62FunnyS 4a 5
63BounceHVS 5a 2
64WorryE2 5c 2
65SkinnyVD 5
66ChatterboxS 4a 7
67CheerfulVS 4c 4
68MischiefE2 5b 5
69BumpE1 5b 6
70HappyS 4a 7
71NoseyE1 5c 2
72TickleVS 4c 4
73CoolE2 5b 2
74DizzyHVS 5a 2
75JellyE2 5c 3
76SneezeVS 4c 7
77UppityS 4a 7
78RushHS 4a 2
 Lighthouse Zawn 
80NeatHVS 5a 3
81StubbornE1 5b 3
82FickleHVS 5a 3
83TidyE1 5b 3
84MagicVD 1
85SplendidVD 1
86ShyVS 4b 1
87CarefulS 1
88CuriousVD 1
89ContraryVD 1
90LuckyE1 5b 3
91PrimS 1
92SunshineVD 4
93ScatterbrainVD 2
 Eastern Walls 
95Crouching Tiger, Hidden LimpetVS 4b 2
96Limpets Don't CryHVS 5a *2
97The Silence of the LimpetsVS 4b 2
98Reservoir LimpetsS 2
99The Inner LimpetS 2

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