Climbs 27
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 278m a.s.l
Faces SE

Reuben concentrating © Sankey

Crag features

An awesome crag overlooking the Amber Valley. Home to one of the best E2's on Grit, a product of the late, great Tom Proctor. John 'The Boss' Allen has also visited this brilliant rock leaving one of the most photogenic lines in the valley, 'Jelly Ache' a well protected E3 arête.

Lately, the bouldering here has really taken off and there is at least a few hours worth here. Should you run out of challenges there are plenty more at Turning Stone Edge - just 2mins north, enjoy!!!

Approach notes

Park off the road directly opposite a distinctive round copse of trees. Follow the track to the copse, then around it to a wood. Follow the edge of the field to the right and continue into the woods until you reach the path that runs parallel to the edge.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Cock End 
2Terry Got Fingeredf6A 3
3Cock JockeyV0+ 3
4Cock EndV4 1
5Cock End EliminateV6  
6Split Tipf6A 8
 Cocking Tor 
8CircumcisionE1 5b *5
9Paul's Small WallE5 6b *2
10Both Sides NowE4 6a **3
11Jelly Tot Left
-
V3 *12
12Jelly Totf6A+ **19
13JellyacheE3 5c **11
14Jelly StartV1 *15
15Cyclops' EyeE2 5c *42
16Short Corner
-
HVD 4a 7
17Stridesquef6B 2
 The Prow 
19Crack 'n' Slope
-
V1 *10
20Sun Worship
-
V2 *6
21Pagen CrossV4 ***25
22Wicker Man
-
V6 *16
 Monomantel 
24Rockbilly Rehab
-
V4 *10
25Monomantel
-
V6 *7
26Gravy Boatsmen
-
V4 *11
27Gravy Boatsman DirectV5 1
28The Radjy Man
-
V5 3
 Salad Fingers 
30Salad Fingers
-
V8 * 
31Hubert Cumberdale
-
V3 * 
32Jeremy Fisher
-
V4  

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