Neilston Quarry

Climbs 38 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
An OK wee crag on summer's evening for bouldering, top roping or leading. Willie's Route (S) is good but a tad bold at the top for those new to leading. Punk Rock (HVS 5a) is a good technical route taking a steep pillar past an in- situ engineering nut. Fornication (VS) has a fair bit of loose rock so beware. Strawberry Crack is good but short. ['God of Stretheyre' 3/05]

Access notes
Take the M8 heading to Kilmarnock, come off at J22 and follow the road to Barrhead and then into Neilston. Follow the back road out of Neilston heading away from Glasgow; you will see the pad on your left hand side.

Guidebooks

Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 LEFT BUTTRESS  
2Left and LeftS 4
3Right-Angled CornerD 61
4Corner and GrooveD 81
5Flake RouteVD *143
6Pinkerton's CornerS 284
7Corner AreteS 164
8Kristeen's CrackVD *247
9Ally's GashHS 4b *8
10Polish DirectHS 101
 RIGHT BUTTRESS  
12Girdle Traversef5+ 1
13Juggy CrackVD 77
14Strawberry DirectE2 6a *40
15Strawberry CrackS **381
16Spiney BoulderVD 67
17Easy GullyD 84
18B.N.IS 87
19Broken AreteVD 132
20Y-CrackVD 118
21Stephen SlabHS *80
22Crack CornerVD *185
23Polish HangoverVS 4c *120
24Polish Punk RockHVS 4c *19
25Intrusion LineVD 152
26Punk RockHVS 5a **171
27AddendumE1 5b 2
28Curving CrackHVS 5a *159
29TwistedE3 5c **17
30Daves mildly moist crackS 4a *3
31Willie's RouteS **268
32Willie's Route VariationE2 6a 49
33FornicationVS 4c 138
34hyper realityVS 4b 89
35Grassy CrackS 87
36Jigsaw JiveVD 61
37Whitehorse RibS 4b 34
38Grot GullyM 14
39Peg LegHVS 5b 43
40The Finf4 2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
We went here just last week,, forgot to pick up our shoes so not too much climbing was done but we did some scrambling and set up some anchors. Pretty solid and fun abseiling, looking forward to going with shoes next time. 50m rope is needed though. Good placed for protection placements, one full set of nuts would probably do to be honest but I always like to have spares.
Alexgj - 25/Apr/14
photo of rockfall now uploaded to gallery for this crag
Brownie - 02/Apr/13
Large block fallen off line of Grassy Crack on quarry floor
Brownie - 01/Apr/13
Neilston Quarry is excellent for beginners, i take my 10 and 7 year old boys here who dont face much difficulty, there is harder climbs, usually top or bottom roped, leading can be difficult due to limited protection
kevinmuirhead - 14/Feb/12
Nice topo @ http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Neilston_Quarry
mountainmachine - 06/Jun/10
I learned to lead here, and moved to Sheffield because of it! Remains a great spot for beginners, and those with a good eye will find climbing up to 6c.
Kinley - 26/Jun/05
You can get a train direct to Neilston from Glasgow Central (twice an hour). Ask for directions to "the pad" but walk 100m beyond the sign and entrance for the pad's country walk to reach the crag. Leading is tricky due to little protection lower down and bouldering requires a creative approach. Some small boulder problems to the high right and low left of the crag. Local shop about 10 mins walk (on the road to the quarry). Sunny from about 2 onwards (if it's not raining that is)
Weebl - 25/May/05
quite a broken quarry with a lot of grassy areas. if it was about 6 times the size the gullys would make great winter routes - there is a lot of grass! the lower grade climbing is easy but i didnt think the protection was that great. a lot of the cracks were full of turf. good for beginners - i did my first leads here. a couple of stakes at the top provide quick belays. the ground below the crag gets waterlogged.
alrobertson - 26/Apr/04
nice photos get leading
hty - 15/Aug/03
I've been to Neilston Quarry once before, it is ideal for beginers as there are some easy routes which are not high and can be top roped. However, experienced climbers should not expect a big day out climbing here as there is not much of a challenge here & the routes are limited, although it is good for training & it is in a nice enclosed space!
Jay Jay - 23/Jan/03