Climbs 38
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces W

Neilston Quarry © Gibson

Crag features

An OK wee crag on summer's evening for bouldering, top roping or leading. Willie's Route (S) is good but a tad bold at the top for those new to leading. Punk Rock (HVS 5a) is a good technical route taking a steep pillar past an in- situ engineering nut. Fornication (VS) has a fair bit of loose rock so beware. Strawberry Crack is good but short. ['God of Stretheyre' 3/05]

Approach notes

Take the M8 heading to Kilmarnock, come off at J22 and follow the road to Barrhead and then into Neilston. Follow the back road out of Neilston heading away from Glasgow; you will see the pad on your left hand side.

Guidebooks

We went here just last week,, forgot to pick up our shoes so not too much climbing was done but we did some scrambling and set up some anchors. Pretty solid and fun abseiling, looking forward to going with shoes next time. 50m rope is needed though. Good placed for protection placements, one full set of nuts would probably do to be honest but I always like to have spares.
Alexgj - 25/Apr/14
photo of rockfall now uploaded to gallery for this crag
Brownie - 02/Apr/13
Large block fallen off line of Grassy Crack on quarry floor
Brownie - 01/Apr/13
Neilston Quarry is excellent for beginners, i take my 10 and 7 year old boys here who dont face much difficulty, there is harder climbs, usually top or bottom roped, leading can be difficult due to limited protection
kevinmuirhead - 14/Feb/12
Nice topo @ http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Neilston_Quarry
mountainmachine - 06/Jun/10
I learned to lead here, and moved to Sheffield because of it! Remains a great spot for beginners, and those with a good eye will find climbing up to 6c.
Kinley - 26/Jun/05
You can get a train direct to Neilston from Glasgow Central (twice an hour). Ask for directions to "the pad" but walk 100m beyond the sign and entrance for the pad's country walk to reach the crag. Leading is tricky due to little protection lower down and bouldering requires a creative approach. Some small boulder problems to the high right and low left of the crag. Local shop about 10 mins walk (on the road to the quarry). Sunny from about 2 onwards (if it's not raining that is)
Weebl - 25/May/05
quite a broken quarry with a lot of grassy areas. if it was about 6 times the size the gullys would make great winter routes - there is a lot of grass! the lower grade climbing is easy but i didnt think the protection was that great. a lot of the cracks were full of turf. good for beginners - i did my first leads here. a couple of stakes at the top provide quick belays. the ground below the crag gets waterlogged.
alrobertson - 26/Apr/04
nice photos get leading
hty - 15/Aug/03
I've been to Neilston Quarry once before, it is ideal for beginers as there are some easy routes which are not high and can be top roped. However, experienced climbers should not expect a big day out climbing here as there is not much of a challenge here & the routes are limited, although it is good for training & it is in a nice enclosed space!
Jay Jay - 23/Jan/03
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Left Buttress 
2Left and LeftS 5
3Right-Angled Corner
-
D 67
4Corner and Groove
-
D 89
5Flake Route
-
VD *153
6Pinkerton's Corner
-
S 328
7Corner Arete
-
S 186
8Kristeen's Crack
-
VD *274
9Ally's GashHS 4b *10
10Polish Direct
-
HS 116
 Right Buttress 
12Girdle Traversef5+ 5
13Juggy Crack
-
VD 90
14Strawberry DirectE2 6a *45
15Strawberry Crack
-
S **436
16Spiney Boulder
-
VD 73
17Easy Gully
-
D 95
18B.N.I
-
S 100
19Broken Arete
-
VD 146
20Y-Crack
-
VD 127
21Stephen Slab
-
HS *93
22Crack Corner
-
VD *203
23Polish Hangover
-
VS 4c *133
24Polish Punk RockHVS 4c *19
25Intrusion Line
-
VD 175
26Punk RockHVS 5a **201
27AddendumE1 5b 2
28Curving Crack
-
HVS 5a *184
29TwistedE3 5c **22
30Daves mildly moist crackS 4a *5
31Willie's Route
-
S **309
32Willie's Route Variation
-
E2 6a 54
33Fornication
-
VS 4c 153
34hyper realityVS 4b 99
35Grassy Crack
-
S 99
36Jigsaw Jive
-
VD 64
37Whitehorse RibS 4b 37
38Grot Gully
-
M 15
39Peg LegHVS 5b 51
40The Finf4 3

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Stevie989