Mauchline Gorge

Climbs 24 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
A "Lost World" place with attitude! A tree lined gorge above the River Ayr with good rock including overhangs.

Approach notes
The whole area is an SSSI so do not damage the rock or the plants; "leave only footprints, take only photos [and memories]" as they say.

Take the A76 out of Mauchline and then the second right. If you see the blue bridge, you've gone too far.

Take this right to a wall (possibly an old bridge), parking here, take the path to the crags.

Guidebooks

Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 BOULDER CRAG  
2Stinky PinkyV3 6
3Stinky pinky dynoV1 5
4Crack JamV4 *5
5Stink PocketV2 *11
6Pump ItV4 3
7Trust in EtherV2 4
8Up the MuffV3 **8
9Shut up and dynoV3 **5
10Dead Dog DynoV4 2
 MAIN QUARRY  
12Bowman's CornerS 4a 2
13Mossy WallE2 5a 2
14Purism PersonifiedE2 5c 3
15Gardener's CornerVS 4b *9
16Board WalkE2 5b 2
17Y BotherE3 5c 10
18Bye EckE4 6a 1
19Green MachineVS 4b 4
20Dredge BogVS 4b 2
21Monstrously HorribleVD 1
22Lightning CrackE2 6a 2
23Cup and RingV **1
 RIVER BUTTRESS  
25AyrheidE2 5c 1
26Bridge Over Troubled WaterE4 5c *3
27Morgan *f6B *2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Old Tyke

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Go in the winter! It can be muddy, but the icicles in the gorge are amazing and the friction is great.
scatface - 12/Feb/09
its gud but its 2 mucky!!!!!!!
alannah cee - 10/Apr/06
Great area to learn to climb but some care needed - much of the rock is mossy and the sandstone overhang by the river(which is a spectacular abseil - just over a rope length!)is pretty tough going on the fingertips.
john - 25/Oct/04
A big abseiling venue, Mauchline Gorge does not have much to offer the climber due to the filthy nature of the rock and routes. Good place to take a chick though.
Jonnie - 27/Sep/03