Climbs 24
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces S

Mauchline winter adventure new climb © AlexanderBuglass

Crag features

A "Lost World" place with attitude! A tree lined gorge above the River Ayr with good rock including overhangs.

Approach notes

The whole area is an SSSI so do not damage the rock or the plants; "leave only footprints, take only photos [and memories]" as they say.

Take the A76 out of Mauchline and then the second right. If you see the blue bridge, you've gone too far.

Take this right to a wall (possibly an old bridge), parking here, take the path to the crags.


Go in the winter! It can be muddy, but the icicles in the gorge are amazing and the friction is great.
scatface - 12/Feb/09
its gud but its 2 mucky!!!!!!!
alannah cee - 10/Apr/06
Great area to learn to climb but some care needed - much of the rock is mossy and the sandstone overhang by the river(which is a spectacular abseil - just over a rope length!)is pretty tough going on the fingertips.
john - 25/Oct/04
A big abseiling venue, Mauchline Gorge does not have much to offer the climber due to the filthy nature of the rock and routes. Good place to take a chick though.
Jonnie - 27/Sep/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Boulder Crag 
2Stinky Pinkyf6A 6
3Stinky pinky dynof5 5
4Crack Jamf6B *5
5Stink Pocketf5+ *11
6Pump Itf6B 3
7Trust in Etherf5+ 4
8Up the Mufff6A **8
9Shut up and dynof6A **5
10Dead Dog Dynof6B 2
 Main Quarry 
12Bowman's CornerS 4a 2
13Mossy WallE2 5a 2
14Purism PersonifiedE2 5c 3
15Gardener's CornerVS 4b *9
16Board WalkE2 5b 2
17Y BotherE3 5c 10
18Bye EckE4 6a 1
19Green MachineVS 4b 4
20Dredge BogVS 4b 2
21Monstrously HorribleVD 1
22Lightning CrackE2 6a 2
23Cup and RingV **1
 River Buttress 
E2 5c 1
26Bridge Over Troubled WaterE4 5c *3
27Morgan *f6B *2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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