Creag an Dubh Loch

Climbs 100 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 750m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
This huge, imposing cliff stretches for over 3/4 of a mile and gives excellent mid/upper grade routes, of up to 900 feet.

Can take several days to dry out after rain, tends to be wet until June even in a good Summer.

Best time to vist: early Summer or September to avoid midges, July/August for warmth.

Must do : Black Mamba - 11 pitch VS

The Naked Ape - E5

Voyage of the Beagle - E4

Winter routes are demanding and of high quality - tend to need a good, hard freeze.

Must dos : Central Gully (I), Theseus Groove (III), Hanging Garden Route (V,4), Labyrinth Direct (VII,6).

Access notes
Restrictions during stalking season (Sept-Jan)

Check at Glen Muick Ranger Station

Best method of approach is to cycle along N. Loch Muick side, leave bikes near Sheiling at Glas Allt. Allow 2.5 hrs to walk all the way.

Guidebooks
Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), Scottish Rock - South (2008), The Cairngorms (2007), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Cairngorms Vol. 2 (1998), Scottish Winter Climbs (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Valentine's ButtressI/II 2
 SOUTH-EAST BUTTRESS  
3Souls on FireIV 5 * 
4Dark SoulsIV 4 *2
5South East ButtressM 3
6South East ButtressII * 
7South East GullyI **15
 BROAD TERRACE WALL  
9The Snow DesertV 6 2
10Eye of AllahE3 5b, 5c **2
11Alice SpringsE2 5c ***8
12The BedouinE4 6a **1
13The Last OasisVS 4c *1
14The Last OasisVI 6 ** 
15Take the ThroneVII 6 ***2
16The Sword of DamoclesE2 5b ***3
17The Sword of DamoclesVIII 9 ***2
18DevolutionE6 6b **1
19Range WarE4 6a ** 
20Range War (winter variation)X 10 ***1
21FloddenE6 6b *** 
22CullodenE2 5c * 
23CullodenIX 9 ***1
24Defence of the RealmVII 7 ***2
25The StingVII 6 **3
 HANGING GARDEN  
27The AqueductV 4  
28Bower ButtressV 5 3
29YetiV 4 1
30Hanging Garden Route (Left Fork)V 4 10
31Labyrinth Left-handV 5  
32Labyrinth DirectVII 6 11
 CENTRAL SLABS  
34Labyrinth EdgeIV 5 1
35Dinosaur/Pink ElephantHVS 5a **12
36The White ElephantVII 6 **1
37Blue MaxE1 5b **24
38CyclopsHVS 5a ***39
39Black MambaVS 4c **48
40Theseus GroovesII  
41BuddhaE7 6c **2
42Central Gully ButtressII 4
43Central GullyI ***30
 CENTRAL GULLY WALL  
45Treeline GrooveIV 5 *2
46Sabre CutIV 5  
47The ShetlanderE6 6c ** 
48The Wicker ManE3 6a **5
49Vertigo WallVI 7 ***12
50Vertigo WallVS 4c * 
51The VapouriserVIII 8 ***1
52GorillaE6 6b ** 
53BombadilloE4 6a **2
54The IsraeliteE4 6a ** 
55GoliathHVS 5a **44
56The GiantE3 6a **11
57The GiantV ***2
58The Naked ApeE5 6b ***6
59The Origin of SpeciesE6 6b *** 
60The Ascent Of ManE5 6b ***2
61Perilous JourneyE6 6b **1
62Hybrid VigourE6 6c *** 
63CannibalE6 6b ***2
64Voyage of the BeagleE5 6a ***10
65 CougarE3 5c ***34
66VampireE2 5b **6
67RaptorE2 5b * 
68PredatorHVS 5a * 
69The MousetrapVS 4c ***86
70Dubh Loch MonsterE1 5c **12
71Black DiamondE4 6a 3
72King RatE1 5c ***56
73Waterkelpie WallE1 5c * 
74GulliverE2 5b 2
75CaymanE2 5c *3
 BUFF SLABS  
77The Holiday BoysE3 5c * 
78NakedE4 5c **1
79BuffyE6 6b ** 
80StarkE3 5c * 
81BareE5 6a * 
82Sous les ToitsE2 5c * 
83Forte DecliviteE5 6b * 
 FALSE GULLY WALL  
85MasqueE2 5c ** 
86The SnakeE4 6a ** 
87Fer de LanceE6 6b *** 
88The Improbability DriveE6 6c *** 
89SlartibartfastE5 6b ***1
90An SpearagE6 6c ** 
91Sans FerE4 6b **3
92Iron in the SoulE4 6a ** 
93Sans Fer / Iron in the SoulE4 6b ***1
94FalsefaceE2 5c *1
95The GatheringE3 6a * 
96The QuickeningE4 6b * 
 NORTH-WEST BUTTRESS  
98North West GullyII **16
99JezebelE3 6b * 
100BaalE5 6a ** 
101Late Night FinalHS *2
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Cycled in from the car park at the Spittal of Glen Muik to just past Glas Allt Shiel. Definately the way to do it. Great trip. Great crag.
climberuk - 20/Sep/09