Creag an Dubh Loch

Climbs 100 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 750m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
This huge, imposing cliff stretches for over 3/4 of a mile and gives excellent mid/upper grade routes, of up to 900 feet.

Can take several days to dry out after rain, tends to be wet until June even in a good Summer.

Best time to vist: early Summer or September to avoid midges, July/August for warmth.

Must do : Black Mamba - 11 pitch VS

The Naked Ape - E5

Voyage of the Beagle - E4

Winter routes are demanding and of high quality - tend to need a good, hard freeze.

Must dos : Central Gully (I), Theseus Groove (III), Hanging Garden Route (V,4), Labyrinth Direct (VII,6).

Access notes
Restrictions during stalking season (Sept-Jan)

Check at Glen Muick Ranger Station

Best method of approach is to cycle along N. Loch Muick side, leave bikes near Sheiling at Glas Allt. Allow 2.5 hrs to walk all the way.

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - South (2008), Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), The Cairngorms (2007), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Cairngorms Vol. 2 (1998), Scottish Winter Climbs (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Valentine's ButtressI/II 2
 SOUTH-EAST BUTTRESS  
3Souls on FireIV 5 * 
4Dark SoulsIV 4 *2
5South East ButtressM 3
6South East GullyI **15
 BROAD TERRACE WALL  
8The Snow DesertV 6 2
9Eye of AllahE3 5b, 5c **2
10Alice SpringsE2 5c ***8
11The BedouinE4 6a **1
12The Last OasisVS 4c *1
13The Last OasisVI 6 ** 
14Take the ThroneVII 6 ***2
15The Sword of DamoclesE2 5b ***3
16The Sword of DamoclesVIII 9 ***2
17DevolutionE6 6b **1
18Range WarE4 6a ** 
19Range War (winter variation)X 10 ***1
20FloddenE6 6b *** 
21CullodenE2 5c * 
22CullodenIX 9 ***1
23Defence of the RealmVII 7 ***2
24The StingVII 6 **3
 HANGING GARDEN  
26The AqueductV 4  
27Bower ButtressV 5 3
28YetiV 4 1
29Hanging Garden Route (Left Fork)V 4 10
30Labyrinth Left-handV 5  
31Labyrinth DirectVII 6 9
 CENTRAL SLABS  
33Labyrinth EdgeIV 5 1
34Dinosaur/Pink ElephantHVS 5a **12
35The White ElephantVII 6 **1
36Blue MaxE1 5b **24
37CyclopsHVS 5a ***39
38Black MambaVS 4c **48
39Theseus GroovesII  
40BuddhaE7 6c **2
41Central Gully ButtressII 4
42Central GullyI ***28
 CENTRAL GULLY WALL  
44Treeline GrooveIV 5 *2
45Sabre CutIV 5  
46The ShetlanderE6 6c ** 
47The Wicker ManE3 6a **5
48Vertigo WallVI 7 ***12
49Vertigo WallVS 4c * 
50The VapouriserVIII 8 ***1
51GorillaE6 6b ** 
52BombadilloE4 6a **1
53The IsraeliteE4 6a ** 
54GoliathHVS 5a **43
55The GiantE3 6a **11
56The GiantV ***2
57The Naked ApeE5 6b ***6
58The Origin of SpeciesE6 6b *** 
59The Ascent Of ManE5 6b ***2
60Perilous JourneyE6 6b **1
61Hybrid VigourE6 6c *** 
62CannibalE6 6b ***2
63Voyage of the BeagleE5 6a ***10
64CougarE3 5c ***34
65VampireE2 5b **6
66RaptorE2 5b * 
67PredatorHVS 5a * 
68The MousetrapVS 4c ***84
69Dubh Loch MonsterE1 5c **12
70Black DiamondE4 6a 3
71King RatE1 5c ***55
72Waterkelpie WallE1 5c * 
73GulliverE2 5b 2
74CaymanE2 5c *3
 BUFF SLABS  
76The Holiday BoysE3 5c * 
77NakedE4 5c **1
78BuffyE6 6b ** 
79StarkE3 5c * 
80BareE5 6a * 
81Sous les ToitsE2 5c * 
82Forte DecliviteE5 6b * 
 FALSE GULLY WALL  
84MasqueE2 5c ** 
85The SnakeE4 6a ** 
86Fer de LanceE6 6b *** 
87The Improbability DriveE6 6c *** 
88SlartibartfastE5 6b ***1
89An SpearagE6 6c ** 
90Sans FerE4 6b **3
91Iron in the SoulE4 6a ** 
92Sans Fer / Iron in the SoulE4 6b ***1
93FalsefaceE2 5c *1
94The GatheringE3 6a * 
95The QuickeningE4 6b * 
 NORTH-WEST BUTTRESS  
97North West GullyII **15
98JezebelE3 6b * 
99BaalE5 6a ** 
100Late Night FinalHS *2
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Cycled in from the car park at the Spittal of Glen Muik to just past Glas Allt Shiel. Definately the way to do it. Great trip. Great crag.
climberuk - 20/Sep/09