Creag an Dubh Loch

Climbs 100 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 750m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
This huge, imposing cliff stretches for over 3/4 of a mile and gives excellent mid/upper grade routes, of up to 900 feet.

Can take several days to dry out after rain, tends to be wet until June even in a good Summer.

Best time to vist: early Summer or September to avoid midges, July/August for warmth.

Must do : Black Mamba - 11 pitch VS

The Naked Ape - E5

Voyage of the Beagle - E4

Winter routes are demanding and of high quality - tend to need a good, hard freeze.

Must dos : Central Gully (I), Theseus Groove (III), Hanging Garden Route (V,4), Labyrinth Direct (VII,6).

Access notes
Restrictions during stalking season (Sept-Jan)

Check at Glen Muick Ranger Station

Best method of approach is to cycle along N. Loch Muick side, leave bikes near Sheiling at Glas Allt. Allow 2.5 hrs to walk all the way.

Guidebooks
Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), Scottish Rock - South (2008), The Cairngorms (2007), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Cairngorms Vol. 2 (1998), Scottish Winter Climbs (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Valentine's ButtressI/II 2
 SOUTH-EAST BUTTRESS  
3Souls on FireIV 5 * 
4Dark SoulsIV 4 *2
5South East ButtressM 3
6South East ButtressII * 
7South East GullyI **15
 BROAD TERRACE WALL  
9The Snow DesertV 6 2
10Eye of AllahE3 5b, 5c **2
11Alice SpringsE2 5c ***8
12The BedouinE4 6a **1
13The Last OasisVS 4c *1
14The Last OasisVI 6 ** 
15Take the ThroneVII 6 ***2
16The Sword of DamoclesE2 5b ***3
17The Sword of DamoclesVIII 9 ***2
18DevolutionE6 6b **1
19Range WarE4 6a ** 
20Range War (winter variation)X 10 ***1
21FloddenE6 6b *** 
22CullodenE2 5c * 
23CullodenIX 9 ***1
24Defence of the RealmVII 7 ***2
25The StingVII 6 **3
 HANGING GARDEN  
27The AqueductV 4  
28Bower ButtressV 5 3
29YetiV 4 1
30Hanging Garden Route (Left Fork)V 4 10
31Labyrinth Left-handV 5  
32Labyrinth DirectVII 6 11
 CENTRAL SLABS  
34Labyrinth EdgeIV 5 1
35Dinosaur/Pink ElephantHVS 5a **12
36The White ElephantVII 6 **1
37Blue MaxE1 5b **25
38CyclopsHVS 5a ***39
39Slithy ToveE3 6a *2
40Black MambaVS 4c **49
41Theseus GroovesII  
42BuddhaE7 6c **2
43Central Gully ButtressII 4
44Central GullyI ***30
 CENTRAL GULLY WALL  
46Treeline GrooveIV 5 *2
47Sabre CutIV 5  
48The ShetlanderE6 6c ** 
49The Wicker ManE3 6a **7
50Vertigo WallVI 7 ***12
51Vertigo WallVS 4c * 
52The VapouriserVIII 8 ***1
53GorillaE6 6b ** 
54BombadilloE4 6a **2
55The IsraeliteE4 6a ** 
56GoliathHVS 5a **46
57The GiantE3 6a **11
58The GiantV ***2
59The Naked ApeE5 6b ***10
60The Origin of SpeciesE6 6b *** 
61The Ascent Of ManE5 6b ***2
62Perilous JourneyE6 6b **1
63Hybrid VigourE6 6c *** 
64CannibalE6 6b ***2
65Voyage of the BeagleE5 6a ***13
66CougarE3 5c ***34
67VampireE2 5b **7
68RaptorE2 5b * 
69PredatorHVS 5a * 
70The MousetrapVS 4c ***90
71Dubh Loch MonsterE1 5c **12
72Black DiamondE4 6a 3
73King RatE1 5c ***58
74Waterkelpie WallE1 5c * 
75GulliverE2 5b 2
76CaymanE2 5c *3
 BUFF SLABS  
78The Holiday BoysE3 5c * 
79NakedE4 5c **1
80BuffyE6 6b ** 
81StarkE3 5c * 
82BareE5 6a * 
83Sous les ToitsE2 5c * 
84Forte DecliviteE5 6b * 
 FALSE GULLY WALL  
86MasqueE2 5c ** 
87The SnakeE4 6a ** 
88Fer de LanceE6 6b *** 
89The Improbability DriveE6 6c *** 
90SlartibartfastE5 6b ***1
91An SpearagE6 6c ** 
92Sans FerE4 6b **3
93Iron in the SoulE4 6a ** 
94Sans Fer / Iron in the SoulE4 6b ***3
95FalsefaceE2 5c *2
96The GatheringE3 6a * 
97The QuickeningE4 6b * 
 NORTH-WEST BUTTRESS  
99North West GullyII **17
100JezebelE3 6b * 
101BaalE5 6a ** 
102Late Night FinalHS *3
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Cycled in from the car park at the Spittal of Glen Muik to just past Glas Allt Shiel. Definately the way to do it. Great trip. Great crag.
climberuk - 20/Sep/09