Creag an Dubh Loch

Climbs 100 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 750m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
This huge, imposing cliff stretches for over 3/4 of a mile and gives excellent mid/upper grade routes, of up to 900 feet.

Can take several days to dry out after rain, tends to be wet until June even in a good Summer.

Best time to vist: early Summer or September to avoid midges, July/August for warmth.

Must do : Black Mamba - 11 pitch VS

The Naked Ape - E5

Voyage of the Beagle - E4

Winter routes are demanding and of high quality - tend to need a good, hard freeze.

Must dos : Central Gully (I), Theseus Groove (III), Hanging Garden Route (V,4), Labyrinth Direct (VII,6).

Access notes
Restrictions during stalking season (Sept-Jan)

Check at Glen Muick Ranger Station

Best method of approach is to cycle along N. Loch Muick side, leave bikes near Sheiling at Glas Allt. Allow 2.5 hrs to walk all the way.

Guidebooks
Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), Scottish Rock - South (2008), The Cairngorms (2007), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Cairngorms Vol. 2 (1998), Scottish Winter Climbs (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Valentine's ButtressI/II
 SOUTH-EAST BUTTRESS 
3Souls on FireIV 5 *
4Dark SoulsIV 4 *
5South East ButtressM
6South East GullyI **
 BROAD TERRACE WALL 
8The Snow DesertV 6
9Eye of AllahE3 5b, 5c **
10Alice SpringsE2 5c ***
11The BedouinE4 6a **
12The Last OasisVS 4c *
13The Last OasisVI 6 **
14Take the ThroneVII 6 ***
15The Sword of DamoclesE2 5b ***
16The Sword of DamoclesVIII 9 ***
17DevolutionE6 6b **
18Range WarE4 6a **
19FloddenE6 6b ***
20CullodenE2 5c *
21CullodenIX 9 ***
22Defence of the RealmVII 7 ***
23The StingVII 6 **
 HANGING GARDEN 
25The AqueductV 4
26Bower ButtressV 5
27YetiV 4
28Hanging Garden Route (Left Fork)V 4
29Labyrinth Left-handV 5
30Labyrinth DirectVII 6
 CENTRAL SLABS 
32Labyrinth EdgeIV 5
33Dinosaur/Pink ElephantHVS 5a **
34The White ElephantVII 6 **
35Blue MaxE1 5b **
36CyclopsHVS 5a ***
37Black MambaVS 4c **
38Theseus GroovesII
39BuddhaE7 6c **
40Central Gully ButtressII
41Central GullyI ***
 CENTRAL GULLY WALL 
43Treeline GrooveIV 5 *
44Sabre CutIV 5
45The ShetlanderE6 6c **
46The Wicker ManE3 6a **
47Vertigo WallVI 7 ***
48Vertigo WallVS 4c *
49The VapouriserVIII 8 ***
50GorillaE6 6b **
51BombadilloE4 6a **
52The IsraeliteE4 6a **
53GoliathHVS 5a **
54The GiantE3 6a **
55The GiantV ***
56The Naked ApeE5 6b ***
57The Origin of SpeciesE6 6b ***
58The Ascent Of ManE5 6b ***
59Perilous JourneyE6 6b **
60Hybrid VigourE6 6c ***
61CannibalE6 6b ***
62Voyage of the BeagleE5 6a ***
63CougarE3 5c ***
64VampireE2 5b **
65RaptorE2 5b *
66PredatorHVS 5a *
67The MousetrapVS 4c ***
68Dubh Loch MonsterE1 5c **
69Black DiamondE4 6a
70King RatE1 5c ***
71Waterkelpie WallE1 5c *
72GulliverE2 5b
73CaymanE2 5c *
 BUFF SLABS 
75The Holiday BoysE3 5c *
76NakedE4 5c **
77BuffyE6 6b **
78StarkE3 5c *
79BareE5 6a *
80Sous les ToitsE2 5c *
81Forte DecliviteE5 6b *
 FALSE GULLY WALL 
83MasqueE2 5c **
84The SnakeE4 6a **
85Fer de LanceE6 6b ***
86The Improbability DriveE6 6c ***
87SlartibartfastE5 6b ***
88An SpearagE6 6c **
89Sans FerE4 6b **
90Iron in the SoulE4 6a **
91Sans Fer / Iron in the SoulE4 6b ***
92FalsefaceE2 5c *
93The GatheringE3 6a *
94The QuickeningE4 6b *
 NORTH-WEST BUTTRESS 
96North West GullyII **
97JezebelE3 6b *
98BaalE5 6a **
99Late Night FinalHS *
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Cycled in from the car park at the Spittal of Glen Muik to just past Glas Allt Shiel. Definately the way to do it. Great trip. Great crag.
climberuk - 20/Sep/09