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These details were last updated on 11/Feb/2013

Creag an Dubh Loch

Aberdeenshire, SCOTLAND

Climbs 100 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 750m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
This huge, imposing cliff stretches for over 3/4 of a mile and gives excellent mid/upper grade routes, of up to 900 feet.

Can take several days to dry out after rain, tends to be wet until June even in a good Summer.

Best time to vist: early Summer or September to avoid midges, July/August for warmth.

Must do : Black Mamba - 11 pitch VS

The Naked Ape - E5

Voyage of the Beagle - E4

Winter routes are demanding and of high quality - tend to need a good, hard freeze.

Must dos : Central Gully (I), Theseus Groove (III), Hanging Garden Route (V,4), Labyrinth Direct (VII,6).

Weather forecast

 Today  Mon  Tue  Wed  Thu 
     
Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Cairngorms & Monadhliath – Met Office: East Highlands

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - South (2008), Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), The Cairngorms (2007), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Cairngorms Vol. 2 (1998), Scottish Winter Climbs (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Valentine's ButtressI/II 2
 SOUTH-EAST BUTTRESS  
3Souls on FireIV 5 * 
4Dark SoulsIV 4 *2
5South East ButtressM 3
6South East GullyI **13
 BROAD TERRACE WALL  
8Eye of AllahE3 5b, 5c ** 
9Alice SpringsE2 5c ***6
10The BedouinE4 6a ** 
11The Last OasisVI 6 ** 
12Sword Of DamoclesE2 5b *** 
13DevolutionE6 6b **1
14Range WarE4 6a ** 
15FloddenE6 6b *** 
16CullodenE2 5c * 
 HANGING GARDEN  
18The AqueductV 4  
19Bower ButtressV 5 1
20YetiV 4 1
21Hanging Garden Route (Left Fork)V 4 10
22Labyrinth Left-handV 5  
23Labyrinth DirectVII 6 8
 CENTRAL SLABS  
25Labyrinth EdgeIV 5 1
26Dinosaur/Pink ElephantVS 4c **5
27The White ElephantVII 6 **1
28Blue MaxE1 5b **15
29CyclopsHVS 5a ***26
30Black MambaVS 4c **37
31Theseus GroovesII  
32BuddhaE7 6c **2
33Central Gully ButtressII 4
34Central GullyI ***25
 CENTRAL GULLY WALL  
36Treeline GrooveIV 5 *2
37Sabre CutIV 5  
38The ShetlanderE6 6c ** 
39The Wicker ManE3 6a **3
40Vertigo WallVI 7 ***11
41Vertigo Wall (summer)VS 4c * 
42The VapouriserVIII 8 ***1
43GorillaE6 6b ** 
44BombadilloE4 6a ** 
 Climb nameGradex
45The IsraeliteE4 6a ** 
46GoliathHVS 5a **34
47The GiantE3 6a **9
48The Naked ApeE5 6b ***4
49The Origin of SpeciesE6 6b *** 
50The Ascent Of ManE5 6b ***2
51Perilous JourneyE6 6b **1
52Hybrid VigourE6 6c *** 
53CannibalE6 6b ***2
54Voyage of the BeagleE5 6a ***8
55CougarE3 5c ***33
56VampireE2 5b **4
57The MousetrapVS 4c ***67
58Dubh Loch MonsterE1 5c **11
59Black DiamondE4 6a 1
60King RatE1 5c ***37
61GulliverE2 5b 1
62CaymanE2 5c *2
 BUFF SLABS  
64The Holiday BoysE3 5c * 
65NakedE4 5c **1
66BuffyE6 6b ** 
67StarkE3 5c * 
68BareE5 6a * 
69Sous les ToitsE2 5c * 
70Forte DecliviteE5 6b * 
 FALSE GULLY WALL  
72MasqueE2 5c ** 
73The SnakeE4 6a ** 
74Fer de LanceE6 6b *** 
75The Improbability DriveE6 6c *** 
76SlartibartfastE5 6b *** 
77An SpearagE6 6c ** 
78Sans FerE4 6b **3
79Iron in the SoulE4 6a ** 
80Sans Fer / Iron in the SoulE4 6b *** 
81FalsefaceE2 5c *1
82The GatheringE3 6a * 
83The QuickeningE4 6b * 
 NORTH-WEST BUTTRESS  
85North West GullyII **15
86JezebelE3 6b * 
87BaalE5 6a ** 
88Late Night FinalHS *2
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Access notes
Restrictions during stalking season (Sept-Jan)

Check at Glen Muick Ranger Station

Best method of approach is to cycle along N. Loch Muick side, leave bikes near Sheiling at Glas Allt. Allow 2.5 hrs to walk all the way.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Cycled in from the car park at the Spittal of Glen Muik to just past Glas Allt Shiel. Definately the way to do it. Great trip. Great crag.
climberuk ? - 20/Sep/09