Creag an Dubh Loch

Climbs 100 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 750m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
This huge, imposing cliff stretches for over 3/4 of a mile and gives excellent mid/upper grade routes, of up to 900 feet.

Can take several days to dry out after rain, tends to be wet until June even in a good Summer.

Best time to vist: early Summer or September to avoid midges, July/August for warmth.

Must do : Black Mamba - 11 pitch VS

The Naked Ape - E5

Voyage of the Beagle - E4

Winter routes are demanding and of high quality - tend to need a good, hard freeze.

Must dos : Central Gully (I), Theseus Groove (III), Hanging Garden Route (V,4), Labyrinth Direct (VII,6).

Access notes
Restrictions during stalking season (Sept-Jan)

Check at Glen Muick Ranger Station

Best method of approach is to cycle along N. Loch Muick side, leave bikes near Sheiling at Glas Allt. Allow 2.5 hrs to walk all the way.

Scottish Rock - South (2008), Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), The Cairngorms (2007), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Cairngorms Vol. 2 (1998), Scottish Winter Climbs (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Valentine's ButtressI/II
3Souls on FireIV 5 *
4Dark SoulsIV 4 *
5South East ButtressM
6South East GullyI **
8The Snow DesertV 6
9Eye of AllahE3 5b, 5c **
10Alice SpringsE2 5c ***
11The BedouinE4 6a **
12The Last OasisVS 4c *
13The Last OasisVI 6 **
14Take the ThroneVII 6 ***
15The Sword of DamoclesE2 5b ***
16The Sword of DamoclesVIII 9 ***
17DevolutionE6 6b **
18Range WarE4 6a **
19FloddenE6 6b ***
20CullodenE2 5c *
21Defence of the RealmVII 7 ***
22The StingVII 6 **
24The AqueductV 4
25Bower ButtressV 5
26YetiV 4
27Hanging Garden Route (Left Fork)V 4
28Labyrinth Left-handV 5
29Labyrinth DirectVII 6
31Labyrinth EdgeIV 5
32Dinosaur/Pink ElephantHVS 5a **
33The White ElephantVII 6 **
34Blue MaxE1 5b **
35CyclopsHVS 5a ***
36Black MambaVS 4c **
37Theseus GroovesII
38BuddhaE7 6c **
39Central Gully ButtressII
40Central GullyI ***
42Treeline GrooveIV 5 *
43Sabre CutIV 5
44The ShetlanderE6 6c **
45The Wicker ManE3 6a **
46Vertigo WallVI 7 ***
47Vertigo WallVS 4c *
48The VapouriserVIII 8 ***
49GorillaE6 6b **
50BombadilloE4 6a **
51The IsraeliteE4 6a **
52GoliathHVS 5a **
53The GiantE3 6a **
54The GiantV ***
55The Naked ApeE5 6b ***
56The Origin of SpeciesE6 6b ***
57The Ascent Of ManE5 6b ***
58Perilous JourneyE6 6b **
59Hybrid VigourE6 6c ***
60CannibalE6 6b ***
61Voyage of the BeagleE5 6a ***
62Cougar E3 5c ***
63VampireE2 5b **
64RaptorE2 5b *
65PredatorHVS 5a *
66The MousetrapVS 4c ***
67Dubh Loch MonsterE1 5c **
68Black DiamondE4 6a
69King RatE1 5c ***
70Waterkelpie WallE1 5c *
71GulliverE2 5b
72CaymanE2 5c *
74The Holiday BoysE3 5c *
75NakedE4 5c **
76BuffyE6 6b **
77StarkE3 5c *
78BareE5 6a *
79Sous les ToitsE2 5c *
80Forte DecliviteE5 6b *
82MasqueE2 5c **
83The SnakeE4 6a **
84Fer de LanceE6 6b ***
85The Improbability DriveE6 6c ***
86SlartibartfastE5 6b ***
87An SpearagE6 6c **
88Sans FerE4 6b **
89Iron in the SoulE4 6a **
90Sans Fer / Iron in the SoulE4 6b ***
91FalsefaceE2 5c *
92The GatheringE3 6a *
93The QuickeningE4 6b *
95North West GullyII **
96JezebelE3 6b *
97BaalE5 6a **
98Late Night FinalHS *
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer gforce

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Cycled in from the car park at the Spittal of Glen Muik to just past Glas Allt Shiel. Definately the way to do it. Great trip. Great crag.
climberuk - 20/Sep/09
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These details were last updated on 11/Feb/2013

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