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View larger mapGrid Ref NO 234825 (OS Landranger #44)

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These details were last updated on 11/Feb/2013

Creag an Dubh Loch

Aberdeenshire, SCOTLAND

Climbs 100 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 750m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
This huge, imposing cliff stretches for over 3/4 of a mile and gives excellent mid/upper grade routes, of up to 900 feet.

Can take several days to dry out after rain, tends to be wet until June even in a good Summer.

Best time to vist: early Summer or September to avoid midges, July/August for warmth.

Must do : Black Mamba - 11 pitch VS

The Naked Ape - E5

Voyage of the Beagle - E4

Winter routes are demanding and of high quality - tend to need a good, hard freeze.

Must dos : Central Gully (I), Theseus Groove (III), Hanging Garden Route (V,4), Labyrinth Direct (VII,6).

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

0.0mm rain
Sun
9 °C
38 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
7 °C
21 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
8 °C
16 kph

0.5mm rain
Sunny periods
11 °C
29 kph

4.9mm rain
Sun
9 °C
19 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Cairngorms & MonadhliathMet Office: East Highlands

Guidebooks
Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), Scottish Rock - South (2008), The Cairngorms (2007), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Cairngorms Vol. 2 (1998), Scottish Winter Climbs (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Valentine's ButtressI/II 2
 SOUTH-EAST BUTTRESS  
3Souls on FireIV 5 * 
4Dark SoulsIV 4 *2
5South East ButtressM 3
6South East GullyI **14
 BROAD TERRACE WALL  
8The Snow DesertV 6 2
9Eye of AllahE3 5b, 5c ** 
10Alice SpringsE2 5c ***8
11The BedouinE4 6a **1
12The Last OasisVS 4c *1
13The Last OasisVI 6 ** 
14Take the ThroneVII 6 ***2
15The Sword of DamoclesE2 5b ***3
16The Sword of DamoclesVIII 9 ***2
17DevolutionE6 6b **1
18Range WarE4 6a ** 
19FloddenE6 6b *** 
20CullodenE2 5c * 
21Defence of the RealmVII 7 ***2
22The StingVII 6 **3
 HANGING GARDEN  
24The AqueductV 4  
25Bower ButtressV 5 3
26YetiV 4 1
27Hanging Garden Route (Left Fork)V 4 10
28Labyrinth Left-handV 5  
29Labyrinth DirectVII 6 9
 CENTRAL SLABS  
31Labyrinth EdgeIV 5 1
32Dinosaur/Pink ElephantHVS 5a **10
33The White ElephantVII 6 **1
34Blue MaxE1 5b **22
35CyclopsHVS 5a ***36
36Black MambaVS 4c **44
37Theseus GroovesII  
38BuddhaE7 6c **2
39Central Gully ButtressII 4
40Central GullyI ***26
 CENTRAL GULLY WALL  
42Treeline GrooveIV 5 *2
43Sabre CutIV 5  
44The ShetlanderE6 6c ** 
45The Wicker ManE3 6a **5
46Vertigo WallVI 7 ***12
47Vertigo WallVS 4c * 
48The VapouriserVIII 8 ***1
 Climb nameGradex
49GorillaE6 6b ** 
50BombadilloE4 6a ** 
51The IsraeliteE4 6a ** 
52GoliathHVS 5a **40
53The GiantE3 6a **11
54The GiantV ***2
55The Naked ApeE5 6b ***6
56The Origin of SpeciesE6 6b *** 
57The Ascent Of ManE5 6b ***2
58Perilous JourneyE6 6b **1
59Hybrid VigourE6 6c *** 
60CannibalE6 6b ***2
61Voyage of the BeagleE5 6a ***10
62Cougar E3 5c ***34
63VampireE2 5b **4
64The MousetrapVS 4c ***77
65Dubh Loch MonsterE1 5c **12
66Black DiamondE4 6a 1
67King RatE1 5c ***47
68GulliverE2 5b 2
69CaymanE2 5c *3
 BUFF SLABS  
71The Holiday BoysE3 5c * 
72NakedE4 5c **1
73BuffyE6 6b ** 
74StarkE3 5c * 
75BareE5 6a * 
76Sous les ToitsE2 5c * 
77Forte DecliviteE5 6b * 
 FALSE GULLY WALL  
79MasqueE2 5c ** 
80The SnakeE4 6a ** 
81Fer de LanceE6 6b *** 
82The Improbability DriveE6 6c *** 
83SlartibartfastE5 6b ***1
84An SpearagE6 6c ** 
85Sans FerE4 6b **3
86Iron in the SoulE4 6a ** 
87Sans Fer / Iron in the SoulE4 6b ***1
88FalsefaceE2 5c *1
89The GatheringE3 6a * 
90The QuickeningE4 6b * 
 NORTH-WEST BUTTRESS  
92North West GullyII **15
93JezebelE3 6b * 
94BaalE5 6a ** 
95Late Night FinalHS *2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Access notes
Restrictions during stalking season (Sept-Jan)

Check at Glen Muick Ranger Station

Best method of approach is to cycle along N. Loch Muick side, leave bikes near Sheiling at Glas Allt. Allow 2.5 hrs to walk all the way.

Classifieds
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Cycled in from the car park at the Spittal of Glen Muik to just past Glas Allt Shiel. Definately the way to do it. Great trip. Great crag.
climberuk - 20/Sep/09