Dungeon of Buchan

Climbs 36 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 450m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
Excellent remote crags in a splendid situation, providing high quality crack and slab climbs. The rock is rough and and sound througout, with very little loose rock. Lack of taffic means moss is common on the climbs but it does not affect the climbing too much.

Access notes
The Silver Flowe bog below the crags is an SSSI and climbers should skirt this to the north near the forest - this is drier anyway.

The 2005 version of Lowland Outcrops says the previous bird ban has been lifted, so access is all year round.

Guidebooks
Lowland Outcrops (2005),
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 DUNGEON BUTTRESS  
2Galloway GroovesVD *4
3Battle AxeHS 4b 2
4Carrick CornerVS 4c **17
5Bruce's StoneE1 5b * 
6Scot's Wha HaeHVS 5b **11
7Incy Wincy SpiderE2 5b ***4
8Parcel Of RoguesE3 6a *** 
9Parcel Of Rogues DirectE3 6a ** 
10Free LandE1 5b * 
11BannockburnE1 5b **2
12English GoldE3 5c * 
13Hammer Of The ScottsE1 5b **2
14Comyn CornerS 4a 1
 SILVER SLAB  
16The ScrieveVS 4c **6
17The Wee SlanterS 4b **2
18Sprauchler's GrooveVS 4b **3
19The Big SmirrS 4a *5
20Pembroke MistS 4b *2
21Stairway To HeatherVS 4c *1
 COORAN BUTTRESS  
23Traitors GaitVS 4c **21
24Snakes And LaddersE1 5b *1
25Cooran Buttress DirectVS 5a *3
26Cooran ButtressHS 4b *2
27Hell Freezes OverIV 5 *** 
28Bickerdike's ButtressVS 4c *1
29Castles In The AirHVS 5a *1
30Monkey PuzzleVS 4c **6
31The Highway ManHVS 5a **5
32Heir ApparentHVS 5b **3
33Heir Apparent Direct FinishE3 5b ***4
34The Colonel's CornerHVS 5b ***14
35CyclopathE1 5b **4
36Cooran ChimneyE1 5b * 
 LION'S HEAD  
38Horns of a DilemnaHVS 5b ** 
39Saddle TrampE2 5b **1
40Aughty StarE1 ** 
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Turn left down the new forest road just before the bothy to its end then follow a feint path through the trees just to the right of the fire break. Cross the stream and head for the large boulder in the middle of the silver flowe then follow a goat track southwest for a bit to skirt round the bottom of the wettest part.
machars - 31/May/12
Mountain biking is recommended to Backhill of Bush bothy, from there you can skirt the trees that go around the north of the bog by a path that is clearly visible from the crag and should have bikeable sections so bikes can be taken closer.
jonnie3430 - 04/Jun/10