Climbs 113
Rocktype Greywacke

Faces SE

End of a good winters day. Robbie Miller rappelling down Limestone Blues Cliff Meikle Ross, Galloway, Scotland © Matt crawford

Crag features

8 cliff areas within an 800 metre stretch of coastline give adventurous climbing mostly in the middle grades. Variable rock quality in places, care to be taken at the top of routes especially.

Some of the best climbing is concentrated in Little Zawn where the rock is particularly solid. Mellow Yellow, Pinking Shear and Bloody Crack are all very good. Other good routes include Side Track, Curving Arete, Rez Route, Mental Block and K.9. If you are feeling particularly strong, Corridors of Power (E3 5c) give good steep climbing on surprisingly solid rock and Sunshine Superman (E4 6a) give a good fight through slabs and overlaps.

Approach notes

Avoid Limehouse Blues Cliff between May to August due to nesting birds, other cliffs relatively bird-free.

Guidebooks

Great crag - quite easy to get to climbs.
Tom Phillips - 28/Jul/16
A fantastic suntrap for end of year climbing In a fantastic position. Rock quality in Little Zawn was actually very good. Walk in through the Cattle - might not want to wear your new trainers!
Stevie989 - 06/Nov/14
Climbed there many years ago one chilly Easter Sunday, in shirtsleeves. It can be a suntrap during the cooler months. Did Limehouse Blues, Galloway Corner, Crack & Corner and Salty Dog - all of which were worthwhile.
Lord of Starkness - 17/Apr/08
If you have to climb one route on Meikle Ross, Mellow Yellow, VS 4c is the one........Fantastic!
Ken MacMillan - 15/Dec/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Fox Craig 
2Promontory Wall
-
S 4a  
3Corridors of PowerE3 5c **4
4Ken's Groove
-
VS 4b  
5Crack and Corner
-
VS 4b *17
6Dolphin Groove
-
HVS 4c  
7Curving Arete
-
S 4a **28
8Fats WallerE1 5b *4
9GreywackattackVS 4c 1
10Left AreteHS 4b **8
11Rez RouteHS **23
12Alligator Crawl
-
HVS 5a *17
13Twin CracksS 4a **17
14Sharks ToothVD 8
 Crow's Nest Cliff 
16The Battle of OsfrontalisHVS 5a  
 Crab Slab 
18The Arete
-
M  
19Little Fishy
-
D 1
20Crab Eyes
-
HS 4a *1
21Tropic of Cancer
-
S 4a *3
22Mutant Slater
-
HS 4a *4
23Crabbit Auld Man
-
S 4a *4
24Arthropomorphic
-
VS 4b **2
25The Sinking of HMS Screwgate
-
VD 2
26Winkle Up
-
VD  
27Landsickness
-
VS 4c *3
 Limehouse Blues 
29Exit GrooveD 3
30Ancient MarinerE2 5b * 
31Meikle GorbachovVS 4c  
32Pigeon Chimney
-
D  
33Groovey
-
VD  
34Compulsion
-
E1 5b  
35Zugsfang
-
E2 5c  
36White Out
-
S 4a  
37SeadogHVS 5a * 
38ArgusE1 5b * 
39Dogleg
-
HVS 5a **8
40Akela
-
HVS 5a  
41Salty Dog
-
HVS 4c **7
42Accutrac
-
HVS 5a  
43Sorcerer's ApprenticeVS 4b *1
44FinesseE1 5b ** 
45Limpet Arete
-
VD  
46Limehouse Blues
-
HVS 4b, 5a *3
47Blue FingerVS 4c  
48Crack Track
-
HVS 5a * 
49Maple Leaf Rag
-
HVS 5a, 5a *1
50Spectacular BidE6 6b ** 
51Crack Track/Maple Leaf Rag Combination
-
HVS 5a *1
52Galloway Corner
-
HVS 5a *9
53Side TrackHVS 5a **4
54Back TrackE1 5a  
55Rhythm 'n' Blues
-
HVS 5a, 5a ** 
 Little Zawn 
57Steve's Route
-
VS 4b 1
58Spectrum Wall
-
E1 5b  
59Orange Chimney
-
VD *12
60Green Wall
-
HS 4b **54
61Clockwork Orange
-
VD *37
62Pinking Shear
-
HVS 5a ***55
63Mellow Yellow
-
VS 4c ***109
64Sunshine SupermanE4 6a *3
65Stepped CornerHS 4b 14
66Bloody AreteE4 5c **1
67Bloody CrackE1 5b ***54
68Fil d'OrE3 6a *2
69AmnesiaVS 4c  
70HeadcaseVS 4c 1
71A Walk on the Wild SideE1 5b ** 
 Red Slab 
73Chairman's Crack
-
S  
74Scared to Dance
-
E1 5b **18
75Dolce Vita
-
HVS 5a 1
76Born to Boogie
-
E1 5a  
77Shake, Rattle and Roll
-
E1 5a  
78Grand Central Couloir
-
VS 4c  
79Cairn's CreamVS 4c *12
80Bad Medicine Waltz
-
HVS 5a *12
81Mental Block
-
VS 4c ***67
82Demolition Tango
-
VS 4c **30
83Wizard of Oz
-
HS 4b *44
84TinmanS 4a 24
85Coffin Crack
-
S 4a 26
86Dinner Meat
-
VD 6
87Access Ridge
-
VD 8
88Fiona's Folly
-
S  
 Deep Zawn 
90Access Traverse (To Deep Zawn)VD 9
91K.9.
-
HVS 4b, 5a ** 
92Rift RouteS 4a **9
93Eminence Grise
-
HS 4b *1
94A Sop for Cerebrus
-
HS 4b  
95Yellow Dog
-
HVS 4c  
96Dogwalk
-
D  
97Avernal Buttress
-
VD  
 Dry Zawn 
99Route One
-
S 4a * 
100Route Two
-
VS 4c  
101Route Three
-
VD  
102Pinko-Subversive
-
S 4a  
103Manic Nirvana
-
HVS 5a * 
104Bumper Dumoer
-
HVS 5b  
105The Moosetrap
-
VS 4c  
106Poison Ivy
-
D  
107Titan's Corner
-
E1 5a  
108Marie Celeste
-
VS 4b  
109Blistering Barnacles
-
S 4a  
110Barnacle Bill
-
S 4a  
 Old Zawn Slab 
112Nursery End
-
VD  
113Silly Mid-On
-
VD  
114Silly Mid-Off
-
S  
115Grapeshot
-
HS 4b  
116Mid-Wicket
-
HVS 4c * 
117Old Zawn
-
HVS 4c  
118Evens
-
VS 4c  
119The Slips
-
HVS 5a  
120Whale Meat Again
-
S  
121A Wee Cracker
-
VS 4c * 
 Other 
123Meikle Ross TraverseVS 1

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