UKC

Climbs 114
Rocktype Greywacke

Faces SE

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End of a good winters day. Robbie Miller rappelling down Limestone Blues Cliff Meikle Ross, Galloway, Scotland © Matt crawford

Crag features

8 cliff areas within an 800 metre stretch of coastline give adventurous climbing mostly in the middle grades. Variable rock quality in places, care to be taken at the top of routes especially.

Some of the best climbing is concentrated in Little Zawn where the rock is particularly solid. Mellow Yellow, Pinking Shear and Bloody Crack are all very good. Other good routes include Side Track, Curving Arete, Rez Route, Mental Block and K.9. If you are feeling particularly strong, Corridors of Power (E3 5c) give good steep climbing on surprisingly solid rock and Sunshine Superman (E4 6a) give a good fight through slabs and overlaps.

Approach notes

Avoid Limehouse Blues Cliff between May to August due to nesting birds, other cliffs relatively bird-free.

Barn is no longer there, a lodge is going to be built, and the approach is now the inland path to all crags
michael burrows - 05/Sep/22
Great crag - quite easy to get to climbs.
Tom Phillips - 28/Jul/16
A fantastic suntrap for end of year climbing In a fantastic position. Rock quality in Little Zawn was actually very good. Walk in through the Cattle - might not want to wear your new trainers!
Stevie989 - 06/Nov/14
Climbed there many years ago one chilly Easter Sunday, in shirtsleeves. It can be a suntrap during the cooler months. Did Limehouse Blues, Galloway Corner, Crack & Corner and Salty Dog - all of which were worthwhile.
Lord of Starkness - 17/Apr/08
If you have to climb one route on Meikle Ross, Mellow Yellow, VS 4c is the one........Fantastic!
Ken MacMillan - 15/Dec/03
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Climbs at this crag

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