Excellent area - great rock, fair selection of routes, quiet and far from any road. Exactly the scenery you wanted out of China - the approach starting at a traditional Chinese farm village, then on trails weaving through rice paddies to a distant rock pillar, one of the thousands dotting the unspoiled landscape all around you.
Best by taxi to a small village (tell the driver "Twin Gate") where you're dropped off at the village school. Then a 15 min walk through rice fields.
Alternatively, hire bikes in Yangshuo, and cycle along the north side of the Yu Long River, and either ford across, or seek out the guy with the huge old rusty metal boat to take you across, to just upstream of the crag. Cycling via The Banyan Tree Park/Crag is another option, although easy to get lost this way.
Yangshuo Rock Climbs
|3||Ta Ma De||6c|
|5||No Goats, No Glory||7c+||1|
|7||Da Pi Gu||5a **||14|
|8||Three Point Five||6b+||6|
|9||Xin Jiang Black||6a||10|
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