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These details were last updated on 28/Sep/2007

Guillemot Ledge

Dorset, ENGLAND

Climbs 53 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude Tidal – Faces S

Crag features
A huge wall with several routes which are the longest at Swanage. Abseil approach to a non-tidal boulder beach. More reasonable finishes than other swanage cliffs. No climbing 1 March to 31 July because of nesting birds on the main West face.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), Dorset Route Database (2000),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Dougal the GreatE6 6c ** 
2Race for the OasisE5 6a *1
3Sons of PioneersE6 6b * 
4Tudor RoseE2 5b ***78
5Facedancin'E3 6a ***23
6OceanidE2 5b **32
7Fly Crazy But FreeE5 6b **4
8WarlordE4 6a ***31
9VikingsE4 6a **14
10CaiaphasE3 5c *3
11Deaf MosaicE6 6c * 
12ValkyrieVS 10
13Be-Bop-DeluxeE2 5b 1
14Valkyrie Buttress DirectHVS 5a *9
15ValhallaHVS 5a 5
16Zo ZoVS 4b *122
17DysentryHVS 4c 3
18Summit RouteHS 4b 5
19No MistakingE3 5c **4
20Mistaken IdentityVS 4c *141
21True IdentityHVS 5a *29
22Lichen WallE1 5b 5
23Outside The WireE1 5b 5
24Exit Chimney Two - The SequelE4 6a * 
25SapphireE1 5b **101
26The SpookE1 5b ***160
27Toiler on the SeaE5 6b *4
 Climb nameGradex
28August AngieE1 5b *35
29NecromancyE4 5c *8
30The HeatE3 5c *9
31The Big HeatE4 6a **8
32Funeral PyreE5 5c * 
33MananaHVS 5a *49
34Tensor IIVS 5a ***340
35StrapiomboHVS 5a **115
36Helen's ReturnE2 5b *4
37LedgendHS 4b *236
38Graffiti Bomber of New York CityE2 5c *4
39Ledgend DirectHVS 5a *146
40Vampire (direct start)E1 5b *12
41VampireHVS 5a *23
42Batt CrackVS 4c **254
43The CreviceVS 4c 6
44Friends from the DeepE3 5c **12
45Yellow Belly WallE5 6b * 
46Yellow WallE1 5b **68
47RobudHVS 5a *19
48CascaraVS 4b 12
49Younger DaysE3 6a *2
50Razor's EdgeHVS 5a *5
51Landslide VictoryE1 5c 3
52MichelleHVS 5a 2
53Isolation wardHVS 5a 1
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Access notes
Guillemot Ledge is approached from Langton Matravers. To reach the parking spot, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers, just outside Swanage town. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The free car park is 300m down here by Langton House. From the parking walk south on a good path past four fields and a spyway barn. After the 4th field, before you drop down to the quarry, turn left (looking out) and follow the ridge track to cross another stile in the next stone wall. Drop diagonally right down a steep hillside to reach the valley bottom then head out towards the cliff edge past a last stone wall. Where the path forks take the middle track via the valley bottom to reach a rickety stile in the cliff-top fence. Cross here to find the lower cliff-top quarry on the left. The main abseil and gearing up ledge lies at the base of the deep gully on the right (looking out) of the stile. Steep rock steps lead down a gully to a small ledge. There is a stake is cemented in at the back of the ledge. An alternative abseil is from boulders in the quarry. Rucksacks can be safely left in the gully but be wary if approaching from the quarries.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Warning! Look out for the second pitch on smutti. The leader had just started on the second pitch of smutti last Sunday 03/07/2005, and had just reached the section where he was traversing right to make the ascension, when the rock quite literally gave way in his hand, leading to a 50ft fall which pulled out a (threaded through the rock)no. 5 nut and a cam, shattering the rock! This top pitch is treacherous!! Thankfully the leader survived with just a few nasty bruises and a fractured hand, BUT BEWARE.
Tim Kinloch - 05/Jul/05

warning !! Valhalla, HVS on Guillemot West (just left of popular Zo-Zo, VS), has suffered rockfall, which extends from the top down to the overlap. The "steep pull through the roof" on pitch 1 no longer exists. All of pitch 2 is changed and is loose. We survived the route, just, but big lumps of rock were pounding the ledge at the base. Hope we did not kill anyone!
charlifarli - 26/Jul/04