View larger mapGrid Ref SZ 001767 (OS Landranger #195)

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These details were last updated on 28/Sep/2007

Guillemot Ledge

Dorset, ENGLAND

Climbs 60 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude Tidal – Faces S

Crag features
A huge wall with several routes which are the longest at Swanage. Abseil approach to a non-tidal boulder beach. More reasonable finishes than other swanage cliffs. No climbing 1 March to 31 July because of nesting birds on the main West face.

Access notes
Guillemot Ledge is approached from Langton Matravers. To reach the parking spot, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers, just outside Swanage town. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The free car park is 300m down here by Langton House. From the parking walk south on a good path past four fields and a spyway barn. After the 4th field, before you drop down to the quarry, turn left (looking out) and follow the ridge track to cross another stile in the next stone wall. Drop diagonally right down a steep hillside to reach the valley bottom then head out towards the cliff edge past a last stone wall. Where the path forks take the middle track via the valley bottom to reach a rickety stile in the cliff-top fence. Cross here to find the lower cliff-top quarry on the left. The main abseil and gearing up ledge lies at the base of the deep gully on the right (looking out) of the stile. Steep rock steps lead down a gully to a small ledge. There is a stake is cemented in at the back of the ledge. An alternative abseil is from boulders in the quarry. Rucksacks can be safely left in the gully but be wary if approaching from the quarries.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

5.5mm rain
Sun
21 °C
20 kph

3.1mm rain
Mainly cloudy
20 °C
14 kph

2.6mm rain
Sun
21 °C
16 kph

1.1mm rain
Mainly cloudy
15 °C
24 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
16 °C
21 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Dorset (2012), Dorset Route Database (2000),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Dougal the GreatE6 6c ** 
2Race for the OasisE5 6a *1
3Sons of PioneersE6 6b *1
4Tudor RoseE2 5b ***91
5Facedancin'E3 6a ***28
6OceanidE2 5b **39
7Fly Crazy But FreeE5 6b **4
8WarlordE4 6a ***35
9VikingsE4 6a **16
10Nemesis E2 5c *1
11CaiaphasE3 5c *3
12Deaf MosaicE6 6c *1
13Norseman E5 6a/b 1
14ValkyrieVS 11
15Be-Bop-DeluxeE2 5b 1
16Valkyrie Buttress DirectHVS 5a *16
17ValhallaHVS 5a 7
18Zo ZoVS 4b *147
19Smutti HS 4b 1
20DysentryHVS 4c 3
21Summit RouteHS 4b 6
22No MistakingE3 5c **4
23Mistaken IdentityVS 4c **181
24True IdentityHVS 5a *41
25Lichen WallE1 5b 10
26Outside The WireE1 5b 9
27Exit Chimney Two - The SequelE4 6a * 
28SapphireE1 5b **127
29The SpookE1 5b ***201
30Toiler on the SeaE5 6b *4
 Climb nameGradex
31August AngieE1 5b *39
32NecromancyE4 5c *9
33The HeatE3 5c *11
34The Big HeatE4 6a **11
35Funeral PyreE5 5c *2
36MananaHVS 5a *68
37Joy Luck Dragon PhoenixE4 6a 1
38Tensor IIVS 5a ***435
39StrapiomboHVS 5a **136
40Helen's ReturnE2 5b *4
41LedgendHS 4b *295
42Graffiti Bomber of New York CityE2 5c *6
43Ledgend DirectHVS 5a *186
44Vampire (direct start)E1 5b *16
45VampireHVS 5a *28
46Batt CrackVS 4c **301
47The CreviceVS 4c 9
48Friends from the DeepE3 5c **16
49Yellow Belly WallE5 6b *1
50Yellow WallE1 5b **88
51RobudHVS 5a *34
52CascaraVS 4b 13
53Younger DaysE3 6a *2
54Razor's EdgeHVS 5a *6
55Landslide VictoryE1 5c 3
56MichelleHVS 5a 3
57Isolation wardHVS 5a 2
58Glooked E5 6b 1
59Ever-heady E3 6a 1
60The Moon Is Down E4 5c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The dead cow is now decomposing and cooking in the sun. Take a nose plug! you can now smell it from the top of the Ab. Rank!!
darren hudson - 15/Jul/13

There is a dead cow in the boulders below the lower abseil point (in the gully). Probably worth avoiding the area between Mistaken Identity and The Spook due to the smell.
Monkey_Alan - 12/Jul/13

Warning! Look out for the second pitch on smutti. The leader had just started on the second pitch of smutti last Sunday 03/07/2005, and had just reached the section where he was traversing right to make the ascension, when the rock quite literally gave way in his hand, leading to a 50ft fall which pulled out a (threaded through the rock)no. 5 nut and a cam, shattering the rock! This top pitch is treacherous!! Thankfully the leader survived with just a few nasty bruises and a fractured hand, BUT BEWARE.
Tim Kinloch - 05/Jul/05

warning !! Valhalla, HVS on Guillemot West (just left of popular Zo-Zo, VS), has suffered rockfall, which extends from the top down to the overlap. The "steep pull through the roof" on pitch 1 no longer exists. All of pitch 2 is changed and is loose. We survived the route, just, but big lumps of rock were pounding the ledge at the base. Hope we did not kill anyone!
charlifarli - 26/Jul/04