Guillemot Ledge

Climbs 60 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude Tidal – Faces S

Crag features
A huge wall with several routes which are the longest at Swanage. Abseil approach to a non-tidal boulder beach. More reasonable finishes than other swanage cliffs. No climbing 1 March to 31 July because of nesting birds on the main West face.

Access notes
Guillemot Ledge is approached from Langton Matravers. To reach the parking spot, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers, just outside Swanage town. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The free car park is 300m down here by Langton House. From the parking walk south on a good path past four fields and a spyway barn. After the 4th field, before you drop down to the quarry, turn left (looking out) and follow the ridge track to cross another stile in the next stone wall. Drop diagonally right down a steep hillside to reach the valley bottom then head out towards the cliff edge past a last stone wall. Where the path forks take the middle track via the valley bottom to reach a rickety stile in the cliff-top fence. Cross here to find the lower cliff-top quarry on the left. The main abseil and gearing up ledge lies at the base of the deep gully on the right (looking out) of the stile. Steep rock steps lead down a gully to a small ledge. There is a stake is cemented in at the back of the ledge. An alternative abseil is from boulders in the quarry. Rucksacks can be safely left in the gully but be wary if approaching from the quarries.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Dorset (2012), Dorset Route Database (2000),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 WEST FACE 
2Dougal the GreatE6 6c **
3Race for the OasisE5 6a *
4Sons of PioneersE6 6b *
5Tudor RoseE2 5b ***
6Facedancin'E3 6a ***
7OceanidE2 5b **
8Fly Crazy But FreeE5 6b **
9WarlordE4 6a ***
10VikingsE4 6a **
11Nemesis E2 5c *
12CaiaphasE3 5c *
13Deaf MosaicE6 6c *
14Norseman E5 6a/b
15ValkyrieVS
16Be-Bop-DeluxeE2 5b
17Valkyrie Buttress DirectHVS 5a *
18ValhallaHVS 5a
19Zo ZoVS 4b *
20Smutti HS 4b
21DysentryHVS 4c
22Summit RouteHS 4b
23No MistakingE3 5c **
24Mistaken IdentityVS 4c **
25True IdentityHVS 5a *
26Lichen WallE1 5b
 EAST FACE 
28Outside The WireE1 5b
29Exit Chimney Two - The SequelE4 6a *
30SapphireE1 5b **
31The SpookE1 5b ***
32Toiler on the SeaE5 6b *
33August AngieE1 5b *
34NecromancyE4 5c *
35The HeatE3 5c *
36The Big HeatE4 6a **
37Funeral PyreE5 5c *
38MananaHVS 5a *
39Joy Luck Dragon PhoenixE4 6a
40Tensor IIVS 5a ***
41StrapiomboHVS 5a **
42Helen's ReturnE2 5b *
43LedgendHS 4b *
44Graffiti Bomber of New York CityE2 5c *
45Ledgend DirectHVS 5a *
46Vampire (direct start)E1 5b *
47VampireHVS 5a *
48Batt CrackVS 4c **
49The CreviceVS 4c
50Friends from the DeepE3 5c **
51Yellow Belly WallE5 6b *
52Yellow WallE1 5b **
53RobudHVS 5a *
54CascaraVS 4b
55Younger DaysE3 6a *
56Razor's EdgeHVS 5a *
57Landslide VictoryE1 5c
58MichelleHVS 5a
59Isolation wardHVS 5a
60Glooked E5 6b
61Ever-heady E3 6a
62The Moon Is Down E4 5c
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Marti999

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The dead cow is now decomposing and cooking in the sun. Take a nose plug! you can now smell it from the top of the Ab. Rank!!
darren hudson - 15/Jul/13
There is a dead cow in the boulders below the lower abseil point (in the gully). Probably worth avoiding the area between Mistaken Identity and The Spook due to the smell.
Monkey_Alan - 12/Jul/13
Warning! Look out for the second pitch on smutti. The leader had just started on the second pitch of smutti last Sunday 03/07/2005, and had just reached the section where he was traversing right to make the ascension, when the rock quite literally gave way in his hand, leading to a 50ft fall which pulled out a (threaded through the rock)no. 5 nut and a cam, shattering the rock! This top pitch is treacherous!! Thankfully the leader survived with just a few nasty bruises and a fractured hand, BUT BEWARE.
Tim Kinloch - 05/Jul/05
warning !! Valhalla, HVS on Guillemot West (just left of popular Zo-Zo, VS), has suffered rockfall, which extends from the top down to the overlap. The "steep pull through the roof" on pitch 1 no longer exists. All of pitch 2 is changed and is loose. We survived the route, just, but big lumps of rock were pounding the ledge at the base. Hope we did not kill anyone!
charlifarli - 26/Jul/04