Climbs 61
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Belay or photo's not both please. © riddle

Crag features

A huge wall with several routes which are the longest at Swanage. Abseil approach to a non-tidal boulder beach. More reasonable finishes than other swanage cliffs. No climbing 1 March to 31 July because of nesting birds on the main West face.

Approach notes

Guillemot Ledge is approached from Langton Matravers. To reach the parking spot, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers, just outside Swanage town. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The free car park is 300m down here by Langton House. From the parking walk south on a good path past four fields and a spyway barn. After the 4th field, before you drop down to the quarry, turn left (looking out) and follow the ridge track to cross another stile in the next stone wall. Drop diagonally right down a steep hillside to reach the valley bottom then head out towards the cliff edge past a last stone wall. Where the path forks take the middle track via the valley bottom to reach a rickety stile in the cliff-top fence. Cross here to find the lower cliff-top quarry on the left. The main abseil and gearing up ledge lies at the base of the deep gully on the right (looking out) of the stile. Steep rock steps lead down a gully to a small ledge. There is a stake is cemented in at the back of the ledge. An alternative abseil is from boulders in the quarry. Rucksacks can be safely left in the gully but be wary if approaching from the quarries.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
The dead cow is now decomposing and cooking in the sun. Take a nose plug! you can now smell it from the top of the Ab. Rank!!
darren hudson - 15/Jul/13
There is a dead cow in the boulders below the lower abseil point (in the gully). Probably worth avoiding the area between Mistaken Identity and The Spook due to the smell.
Monkey_Alan - 12/Jul/13
Warning! Look out for the second pitch on smutti. The leader had just started on the second pitch of smutti last Sunday 03/07/2005, and had just reached the section where he was traversing right to make the ascension, when the rock quite literally gave way in his hand, leading to a 50ft fall which pulled out a (threaded through the rock)no. 5 nut and a cam, shattering the rock! This top pitch is treacherous!! Thankfully the leader survived with just a few nasty bruises and a fractured hand, BUT BEWARE.
Tim Kinloch - 05/Jul/05
warning !! Valhalla, HVS on Guillemot West (just left of popular Zo-Zo, VS), has suffered rockfall, which extends from the top down to the overlap. The "steep pull through the roof" on pitch 1 no longer exists. All of pitch 2 is changed and is loose. We survived the route, just, but big lumps of rock were pounding the ledge at the base. Hope we did not kill anyone!
charlifarli - 26/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 West Face
2Dougal the GreatE6 6c **
3Race for the OasisE5 6a *
4Sons of PioneersE6 6b *
5Tudor RoseE2 5b ***
6Facedancin'E3 6a ***
7OceanidE2 5b **
8Fly Crazy But FreeE5 6b **
9WarlordE4 6a ***
10VikingsE4 6a **
E2 5c *
12CaiaphasE3 5c *
13Deaf MosaicE6 6c *
E5 6a/b
15ValkyrieVS 4b
16Be-Bop-DeluxeE2 5b *
17Valkyrie Buttress DirectHVS 5a **
18ValhallaHVS 5a
19Zo ZoVS 4b *
HS 4b
21DysentryHVS 4c
22Summit RouteHS 4b
23No MistakingE3 5c **
24Mistaken IdentityVS 4c **
25True IdentityHVS 5a **
26Lichen Wall
E1 5b
 East Face
28Outside The WireE1 5b
29Exit Chimney Two - The SequelE4 6a *
30SapphireE1 5b **
31The SpookE1 5b ***
32Toiler on the SeaE5 6b *
33August AngieE1 5b *
34NecromancyE4 5c *
35The HeatE4 5c *
36The Big HeatE4 6a **
37Funeral PyreE5 5c *
38MananaHVS 5a *
39Joy Luck Dragon PhoenixE4 6a
40Tensor IIVS 5a ***
41StrapiomboHVS 5b **
42Helen's ReturnE2 5b *
43LedgendHS 4b *
44Graffiti Bomber of New York CityE2 5c *
45Ledgend DirectHVS 5a **
46Vampire (direct start)E1 5b *
47VampireHVS 5a *
48Batt CrackVS 4c **
49The CreviceVS 4c
50Friends from the DeepE3 5c **
51Yellow Belly WallE5 6b *
52Yellow WallE1 5b **
53RobudHVS 5a *
54CascaraVS 4b
55Younger DaysE3 6a *
56Razor's EdgeHVS 5a *
57Landslide VictoryE1 5c
58MichelleHVS 5a
59Isolation wardHVS 5a
E5 6b
E3 6a
62The Moon Is Down
E4 5c
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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