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These details were last updated on 25/Jul/2011

Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Buttress)

Avon, ENGLAND

Climbs 42 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 53m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Unquarried limestone, richly pocketed and mostly sound. The main face is regarded by many as the best face in the Avon Gorge, with splendid exposure and a very atmospheric situation right under the Clifton suspension bridge. Emphasis is on the HVS to E2 range, 1-4 pitches. A must for the visitor is the classic "Hell Gates (***HVS 5a 5a -)". Routes to 90m.

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Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Avon and Cheddar (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Suspension Bridge AreteHVS 5a **386
2SuspenseHVS 5a **305
3Baby DuckE1 5b *148
4BeginningsE2 5c *38
5LimboE1 5b ***242
6What's It Called?E3 5c *12
7GT SpecialE4 5c **26
8Nemo Me Impune LacessitE5 6a 6
9The Earl Of PerthE1 5b ***156
10OblivionE2 5c *25
11HowhardE1 5b **62
12Hell GatesHVS 5a ***336
13Mary Anne PetersE2 5c 4
14Another Roadside AttractionE2 5c 6
15HieronymousHVS 5a *22
16Clan UnionE1 5b **29
17StrappadosHVS 4c 1
18Earl of Perth/Oblivion HybridE2 5c ***14
19Chateau FitzwarrenE1 5b 23
20Roberts' RouteE1 5c 2
21The SnobblerE2 5b 2
 Climb nameGradex
22Carlos J GHVS 5b 1
23Builders of the New AgeE3 6a  
24The Rejected CapstoneE5 6b  
25HideawayHVS 5a  
26Jose' DansackVS 4c  
27The DrainS 4a 1
28Green-unS 4a  
29Purple HazeHVS 4c 1
30Don QuixoteHVS 4c  
31NavigatorE5 6a  
32Dull DayE3 6a  
33WormlandsVS 4b  
34Rock and No VegHVS 4c 2
35Lonely Are the BraveE3 6a  
36IsambardVS 4c 2
37Expect CarnageE4 6b  
38Three Paranoid Couriers on the DoleE3 5c  
39Devil Gate DriveHVS 5a  
40The Outlook is RosyHVD *1
41Limbic DystrophyHVS 4c,4c  
42Suprising ConclusionS 4a * 
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Access notes
Despite recent rumours, access to this crag is UNCHANGED to normal. ie, not officially permitted, but tolerated. Rumours of banned access & security guards etc are untrue. (see here: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=2507)

Usually, only access problem is crossing the busy road. Leave car somewhere in Clifton and walk down the switch-back path just by the Suspension Bridge lookout point, and then walk along the road (A4) (northwards) for about 400 metres. The base of the buttress is reached by a little scramble up right just after the tunnel. Note that the bridge trustees do NOT allow climbers to escape onto any part of the bridge structure. Abseil off the ring bolt at the top of the route "Suspension Bridge Arete" -- note that a 70m rope is required (or doubles) for this abseil.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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Had a minor problem on 01/04/2012 (not an April fool) with a guy on the bridge in a hi-vis jacket telling me I wasn't supposed to be there (and had to get down Immediately!)
Nick Russell ? - 02/Apr/12

One of the best in the Gorge. A must for the solid E1 leader. The routes are pretty well protected and very steep. From the left edge of the crag there are a few HVS all superb, some classic E1's and a few harder. Beleive me its some of the best
Laubie - 16/Dec/04