Climbs 25
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 12m a.s.l
Faces SE

Slipshod belaying © phantom whistler

Crag features

[OS Lanranger reference would help - UKC Ed]

Short Steep Routes where gear requires a little though in places. Quite hard if damp and in rough seas the ledges can become a little sea washed but are generally OK. Wonderful relaxed spot away from the crowds.

Approach notes

Head west up and over Winspit quarry and along the coast path passing a stone seat on the headland for approx 400m, passing a narrowing bushy part of the path until you reach the start of some wooden fence post on the left. descend a small vegitated slope for 10m until the semi vegitated top out ledge on left hand side appears. There is a large pointed boulder and a good thread on the loose looking back wall. The abseil desecent is dowm the line of "Query" at the right hand end of the ledge (looking out to sea). There are two abseil stakes( one rusty) which appeear OK at the far lefty hand end above the route " The Corner", buit need seeking out due to flora.

Other routes can belay from the abseil boulder, the stakes or good nuts in the back wall:- just look carefully as its quite loose in places.

Access Advice

No issues reported.
The loose block in the exit groove of "Dorset Non-Rhyming Slang" (mentioned in the old CC guide description) is no longer there, after being inadvertently trundled on 28.06.13 ...nobody was injured :-)
The Ivanator - 02/Jul/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Ruth
-
VS 4b 2
2Jackie
-
HVS 5a 5
3Nautilus
-
HS 4b 6
4Octopus
-
HVS 5b 5
5Query
-
HS 4b 14
6Dorset Non-Rhyming Slang
-
HS 4b 17
7Lunar
-
S 31
8Magic
-
HVS 5a 5
9Cuboid
-
VS 4c 13
10Alternate Angle
-
HS 4b 3
11Parallel Lines
-
VS 4c 8
12Moonshine
-
VS 4b 6
13The Corner
-
HS 4b **38
14Ciao Pupa
-
E3 6a/b 1
15Ozymandias
-
E2 5c  
16Gymslip
-
HS 4b 6
17Slipshod
-
VS 4b 4
18Cosmic Cabbage
-
HS 4b 1

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