Climbs 99
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces SW

Phil Belcher Swinging off Twangy Pearl © Phil Belcher

Crag features

Blacknor Central faces south-west and is a good afternoon-sun venue. It suffers from dusty rock in places but many of the lines are on good flowstone and pocketed walls. A good place to check out if Blacknor North is busy.


Approach notes

All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south-west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub.

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The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
Whoever said "faces south-east and is a good morning sun venue" must be geographically challenged. It faces west and is a good afternoon venue!
silhouette - 13/Sep/15
There is a new easy area by the sea called 'Lunar Park' - grades range from 2 - 5+. Descend directly below Boilermaker along the faint scree path. Two very large bolted boulders exist giving around a dozen routes. The largest boulder is seaward facing and lashed by rough seas and hight tide. A good venue if the other slabs further south are crowded - have fun...
JIMBO - 12/Dec/02
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Climbs at this crag

 Pregnant Pause Area 
36Keeping Abreast of Things6b+  
37Paws for Thought6b+ *16
38Pregnant Pause6a+ ***643
39Suenos de España7a+ *1
40Valerian6a *176
41Viper's Tale7a+ *5
42Natural Born Drillers6c *10
43The Long Walk6c **77
44Mexican Stand-off7a+ **20
45One Fine Day6a+ *64
 Go With the Flow and Niagra Area 
47Skank Central6b+ *47
48Go With the Flow6a **315
49Ocean Rock6c+ **58
50Best Destiny4c **313
51Aeroforce7b **1
52Blame it on the Drain7a+ *1
53Niagara Wall7a *3
54Dizzy up the Girl7a+ **5
55Gaze of the Gorgon6a+ **90
 Portland Heights Area 
57Sniffin' Glue7a+ *3
58Athenian Tactics7b+ *8
59Corinthian Spirit7b+ ** 
60Cybernetic Orchard7a+ **22
61I Walk the Line7b **18
62Portland Heights7a ***114
63Grand Larceny7a+ *3
64Burning Skies6b+ ***177
65Isle of Slingers6c+ **89
66Lord Stublock Deepvoid Breaks the Chain of Causation6b+ ***267
67Dusty Bedrock in need of Careful Preparation7a+ *11
68PersistenceHS 4a *2
69Cocteau Phenomena7b+ ***38
70The Chronicles of Vladimir6c+ 23
71Ausfahrt6b+ **124
 Return to Roissy Area 
73Screw the Roses, Send me the Thorns7a+ *27
74The Shells, The Shells7a *26
75Driven Like the Snow6b+ **123
76Return to Roissy6b+ **200
77Daydream Believer6c+ **12
78Last Rose of Summer7a **133
79Through the Barricades7a+ **77
80Step away from the Gingga7a *32
81Babelicious Redhead6c *116
82Chasing the Sun6c+ 41
83The Angry Sea6c 38
84The Wrecked Finger6a+ 76
 Who Does Trad at Portland? Location Unknown 
86Big CornerHVS 4b 2
87Flake OutVS 4c 2
88Bob's Big MistakeHVS 4c 2
89Slim JimS 4a 2
90Last of the Summer Wine
HVS 5a 2
HS 4b 2
92Port Wine
VS 4c 2
93Fond Farewell
E1 5b  
94DreamerHVS 5a  
95Struggling JimVS 4c  
96Second's SwingHVS 5a  
97Poison TipE1 5b  
98NomadVS 4c  
99MirageHVS 5a  
100Pedestal CrackHS  

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