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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SY 678714 (OS Landranger #194)

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These details were last updated on 19/Jul/2009

Blacknor Central

Dorset, ENGLAND

Climbs 75 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Blacknor Central faces west-south-west and is a good-afternnon-sun venue (not south-east as somebody had said). It suffers from dusty rock in places but many of the lines are on good flowstone and pocketed walls. A good place to check out if Blacknor North is busy. Possible restriction from 1 Feb to 31 July on one sector only. Check ROCKFAX web site.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 
     
Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Distanced6b+ 5
2Dudas sin nombres6b+ *44
3When This hits the Fan6c 34
4Shit Happens, Actually6a **506
5Unstuck on You (Flowstone Shuffle)7b 6
621.5 Weeks6b+ *57
7Birthday Girl5+ *87
8Divine Comedy5 15
9I Don't Have a Spoiler so I Just Leave My Boot Open6b *2
10Hysterical Solitude6c *45
11Crucifix Kiss7c **9
12Choc Speedway6b+ *53
13Nothing is Cool6c **48
14Protein Delta Strip6c **40
15That Honeycomb Centre7a 9
16Kit Kat6b **136
17Whilst the Cat's Away7a+ *9
18The Launch7b+ *4
19Fat Falling Pigs6b *99
20Twangy Pearl7b ***60
21Boilermaker7c **9
22Into the Sun6c *18
23Bring on the Night6c+ *24
24Does Trunky Want a Bun?6b+ *8
25Monsoon Malabar6a **353
26Inbreeding6b 15
27We Are Not Men, We Are Roto6c 1
28The Stals on Me Pal7a 5
29Toothless Vampire7b 4
30Paws for Thought6b 9
31Pregnant Pause6a+ ***399
32Valerian5+ 162
33Viper's Tale7a+ *4
34Natural Born Drillers6c *9
35The Long Walk6c **57
36Mexican Stand-off7a+ **13
37One Fine Day6a+ *51
 Climb nameGradex
38Skank Central6b+ *44
39Go With the Flow6a **193
40Ocean Rock6c+ **46
41Best Destiny4+ 222
42Aeroforce7b **1
43Blame it on the Drain7a+ *1
44Niagara Wall7a *3
45Gaze of the Gorgon6a+ **65
46Sniffin' Glue7a+ 1
47Dizzy up the Girl7a+ **5
48Athenian Tactics7b+ *4
49Corinthian Spirit7b * 
50Cybernetic Orchard7a+ **16
51I Walk The Line7b 14
52Portland Heights7a ***78
53Grand Larceny7a+ *3
54Burning Skies6b+ ***113
55Isle of Slingers6c+ **50
56Lord Stublock Deepvoid Breaks the Chain of Causation6b+ ***148
57Dusty Bedrock in need of Careful Preparation7a+ 9
58PersistenceHS 4a *1
59Cocteau Phenomena7b+ **25
60Chronicles of Vladimir6c+ *13
61Ausfahrt6b+ **96
62Screw the Roses, Send me the Thorns7a+ *24
63The Shells, The Shells7a 22
64Driven Like the Snow6b+ **88
65Return to Roissy6b+ *142
66Daydream Believer6c+ **9
67Last Rose of Summer7a **90
68Through the Barricades7a+ **53
69Step away from the Gingga7a *23
70Babelicious Redhead6c *74
71Chasing the Sun6c+ *35
72The Angry Sea6c+ 22
73The Wrecked Finger6b 40
74Suenos de España7a+ * 
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Access notes
All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. It is planned to turn this site into a visitor’s car park in the near future. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub. Walk towards the cliff-top path and turn right (looking out). Continue for about 500m, past an old bunker, and drop down into a quarried area. Find a small path which doubles back leftwards down the hill. This leads down to the first routes on the Drag Racing Area.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There is a new easy area by the sea called 'Lunar Park' - grades range from 2 - 5+. Descend directly below Boilermaker along the faint scree path. Two very large bolted boulders exist giving around a dozen routes. The largest boulder is seaward facing and lashed by rough seas and hight tide. A good venue if the other slabs further south are crowded - have fun...
JIMBO - 12/Dec/02