Blacknor Central

Climbs 99 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Blacknor Central faces south east and is a good-morning-sun venue. It suffers from dusty rock in places but many of the lines are on good flowstone and pocketed walls. A good place to check out if Blacknor North is busy.

Access notes
All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub.

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 HYSTERICAL SOLITUDE AREA  
2Imbolc7b *22
3The Hong Jagged Flake of Death (Retired)6b+ *5
4Distanced6b+ 7
5Dudas sin nombres6b+ *64
6Bag End5c *6
7When This Hits the Fan6b+ *61
8Shit Happens, Actually6a **662
9Unstuck on You (Flowstone Shuffle)7b 14
1021.5 Weeks6b+ *69
11Birthday Girl5c 128
12Divine Comedy5a 32
13I Don't Have a Spoiler so I Just Leave My Boot Open6b *14
14Hysterical Solitude6c *62
15Crucifix Kiss7c **17
16Choc Speedway6b+ *68
17Nothing is Cool6c **71
18Protein Delta Strip6c **53
19That Honeycomb Centre7a 22
20Kit Kat6b **181
21Whilst the Cat's Away7a+ *15
22The Launch7b+ *4
 MONSOON MALABAR AREA  
24Fat Falling Pigs6b *122
25Twangy Pearl7b ***77
26Boilermaker7c **9
27Into the Sun6c *21
28Bring on the Night6c+ *28
29Does Trunky Want a Bun?6b+ *14
30Monsoon Malabar6a **472
31Inbreeding6b 15
32We Are Not Men, We Are Roto6c 1
33The Stals on Me Pal7a 5
34Toothless Vampire7b 4
 PREGNANT PAUSE AREA  
36Keeping Abreast of Things6b+  
37Paws for Thought6b+ *16
38Pregnant Pause6a+ ***532
39Suenos de Espaņa7a+ *1
40Valerian6a *172
41Viper's Tale7a+ *5
42Natural Born Drillers6c *9
43The Long Walk6c **75
44Mexican Stand-off7a+ **19
45One Fine Day6a+ *63
 GO WITH THE FLOW AND NIAGRA AREA  
47Skank Central6b+ *46
48Go With the Flow6a **261
49Ocean Rock6c+ **55
50Best Destiny4c **298
51Aeroforce7b **1
52Blame it on the Drain7a+ *1
53Niagara Wall7a *3
54Dizzy up the Girl7a+ **5
55Gaze of the Gorgon6a+ **86
 PORTLAND HEIGHTS AREA  
57Sniffin' Glue7a+ *3
58Athenian Tactics7b+ *8
59Corinthian Spirit7b+ ** 
60Cybernetic Orchard7a+ **19
61I Walk the Line7b **16
62Portland Heights7a ***110
63Grand Larceny7a+ *3
64Burning Skies6b+ ***166
65Isle of Slingers6c+ **73
66Lord Stublock Deepvoid Breaks the Chain of Causation6b+ ***227
67Dusty Bedrock in need of Careful Preparation7a+ *10
68PersistenceHS 4a *2
69Cocteau Phenomena7b+ ***35
70The Chronicles of Vladimir6c+ 21
71Ausfahrt6b+ **118
 RETURN TO ROISSY AREA  
73Screw the Roses, Send me the Thorns7a+ *27
74The Shells, The Shells7a *26
75Driven Like the Snow6b+ **115
76Return to Roissy6b+ **191
77Daydream Believer6c+ **11
78Last Rose of Summer7a **121
79Through the Barricades7a+ **73
80Step away from the Gingga7a *31
81Babelicious Redhead6c *108
82Chasing the Sun6c+ 41
83The Angry Sea6c 38
84The Wrecked Finger6a+ 70
 WHO DOES TRAD AT PORTLAND? LOCATION UNKNOWN  
86Big CornerHVS 4b 1
87Flake OutVS 4c 2
88Bob's Big MistakeHVS 4c 1
89Slim JimS 4a 2
90Last of the Summer WineHVS 5a 1
91InsistenceHS 4b 1
92Port WineVS 4c 2
93Fond FarewellE1 5b  
94DreamerHVS 5a  
95Struggling JimVS 4c  
96Second's SwingHVS 5a  
97Poison TipE1 5b  
98NomadVS 4c  
99MirageHVS 5a  
100Pedestal CrackHS  
 ROUTES ADDED FROM ROCKFAX BOOK  
102Struggling JimVS 4c  
103Second's SwingHVS 5a  
104Poison TipE1 5b  
105NomadVS 4c  
106MirageHVS 5a  
107Pedestal CrackHS  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There is a new easy area by the sea called 'Lunar Park' - grades range from 2 - 5+. Descend directly below Boilermaker along the faint scree path. Two very large bolted boulders exist giving around a dozen routes. The largest boulder is seaward facing and lashed by rough seas and hight tide. A good venue if the other slabs further south are crowded - have fun...
JIMBO - 12/Dec/02