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These details were last updated on 29/Dec/2008


Gandia, SPAIN

Climbs 40 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Superb large 4KM long South Face with all the routes so far. Up to 150mts trad routes and a small underdeveloped sport crag at the right hand end. Some good sporting caves mixed amongst the crags too. The North face will offer the same potential when it gets too warm for the south face.

The trad routes are much better than the sport routes the best possibilities of which have not been developed yet. The trad routes are generally easy on the first pitch and the rock and quality tend to improve with height, usually finishing in a fine position. Protection is often hard to come by as the rock is so solid there are few cracks. Descent is best by abseil but a walk off is possible.

A new area, The Barranco Butresses is a series of mostly easy graded trad routes on a series of lower buttresses with a short mostly flat walk in.


Out of print: Costa Blanca (2005)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1The Ticking Crocodile5 HVS 1
2Smee3+ HS  
3DarlingVS 4b 2
4Wendy4 HS 1
5Peter Pan6a E1 *2
6Tinkerbelle5 2
7Time Team6a+ E2 1
8Kate5 VS 1
9Black Adder4 VS 1
10Bob4 HS 3
11I Have a Cunning Plan3 S 4
 Climb nameGradex
12The Baldrick Extension5+  
13A Senior Moment5 HVS * 
14Last of the Summer Wine5+ E1 * 
15Unconventional Lives5+ HVS  
16No Pockets in Shrouds5  
17Days of Wine and Roses5+  
18Segaria Main RidgeS **4
19Segaria West Summit1 * 
20The Lost BoysVS 4b * 
21Segaria Ridge (Rockfax Costa Blanca Ridges Mini Guide)4 **6
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Access notes
None known but some longish walks in for Spain (30 mins), The Barranco Buttresses are about a 10 minute walk, and the Transmitter Slabs about 5 mins. All areas are in a beautiful location.

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Truly dreadful!
cem - 02/Jan/13