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These details were last updated on 29/Mar/2007

Rubha Robhanais & Eoropaidh - North Lewis

Hebrides, SCOTLAND

Climbs 50 – Rocktype Gneiss – Altitude Tidal – Faces N

Crag features
The most Northerly area in the Western Isles is actually closer to Reykjavik than it is to Sheffield. The area is in a constant flux of development with contributions from MacLeod, Cubby Cuthbertson, Si O'Conor & Rab Anderson, amongst others. The cliffs around the lighthouse itself are steep & imposing & the area of huge constantly re-arranged boulders directly below the lighthouse is known as the 'washing machine, in a storm, for good reason. This can be crossed at low tide safely enough, but the inherent dangers of navigating between the climbing here are obvious. A storm is more than capable of creating a 30ft wave on a bad day & the strong tides are capable of breaking up trawlers, let alone stray climbers. Go careful - check your weather outlook & tide cut-offs. Apart from that, the area contains some of the best adventure trad climbing anywhere in the Hebrides, with many hard futuristic lines still to go. The Northern tip of Lewis is a truly gobsmacking area that makes your heart thump & fly looking up from the crag bases. Further uncharted traditional cragging can be found in the outlaying areas running South West & East of Rubha Robhanais. These areas also contain endless beaches of three star gneissian bouldering, tamed & untamed sea arches & even a healthy chunk of sea cliff sport climbing at Toul a' Roigh. The bolts are mixed between Batinox resin, traditional thread expansions. Some of the shorter sport routes here also rely on hammered pegs, & although generally sound, these are gradually being replaced, funds permitting. Please check the degradation of these anchors by abseil inspection wherever possible. Sea salt & coastal air are corrosive to glued anchors & threads. Eoropaidh Port Nis & Skigersta provide the most notably developed areas of bouldering to date.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Northwest HighlandsMet Office: West Highlands

Guidebooks
Skye and Hebrides (1999)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1OdysseusVS 4c *** 
2Bang MastersE2 6a ** 
3Lip ServiceV8+ 6c ** 
4Distant Early Warning SSV8 6c ** 
5Fear of DrowningV4 5c ** 
6Sunday SurgeryV3 5c ** 
7Rennaissance In ReverseHVS 4a ** 
8Excuse My FreedomE3 6a * 
9And So I Go...E2 6a * 
10RefractionE1 5b *** 
11Ignis FatuusE5 6b ** 
12Tbilisi SleeperE5 6b ** 
13What Is Past Is PrologueE3 6a  
 Climb nameGradex
14Reinventing The WheelE5 5c ** 
15Northern ConspiracyHS 4b ** 
16Trojan HorseS 4a ** 
17Hidden AgendaS 4b * 
18Helen's ChimneyHS 4b * 
19MenelausHVS 5a ** 
20AgamemnonHVS 5a *** 
21Gniess Achilles - But Not As We Know It!HS 4a  
22Journey Over the SeaE1 5a/b ** 
23Messing with the AchaeansHVS 5a ** 
24Don't Look a Gift Horse in the MouthE1 5b ** 
25Something About the IliadHVS 5a *** 
26Aird To Death...E3 6a *** 
Access notes
No unusual access issues except that Lewis is an established crofting community with lots of free roaming livestock. Mainly brainless roadside feeders. If you are bringing dogs be aware of this, or you may be taking them home in body-bags. There is plenty of free camping on the machairs, but care is needed when night fires are lit amongst the dune grasses in summer. There are a few well stocked shops, a post office or three & a single petrol station in Nis which are all open every day except Sunday, when EVERYTHING closes. There is a small climbing wall in development for 2007 & even a bar down the road, with a table you can push balls around on.

Classifieds
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Volunteer to moderate Rubha Robhanais & Eoropaidh - North Lewis
We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]

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