Coastguard North Dorset, ENGLAND
Climbs 47 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W
Coastguard North is best known for its collection of steep and powerful hard climbs with many in the high 7s and the areaâs hardest route - at 8a+. The approach is quick and easy and a visit is well worth considering if you are tired of the more crowded Blacknor and Battleship Areas. This is a great place for onsighting.
Drive through Southwell to the southern end of the island. Park at a small layby just before the Pulpit Inn (room for about 8 cars). DO NOT PARK ON THE ROAD LEADING UP THE HILL. Walk up the private road and head outwards towards the Lookout (now manned in case of emergency). Go down a grass slope behind to the cliff edge then drop down a steep and precarious path onto a promontory (staple in place if needed). This brings you out below the right-hand side of Coastguard North.
This lay by is currently signed as "Urban Clearway". It's due to be be changed soon to allow free parking, but only for an hour at a time.
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South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Dorset (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Tom Beaumont
if you dont want to pay the £6!!! to park at the bill, its not much more of a walk to come from the blacknor/ battleship parking on the road. and the path suffers from serious erosion, its very steep and wont be to everyones taste. a rope is there to help|
mark_wellin - 01/Aug/10