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These details were last updated on 12/Sep/2008

Coastguard North

Dorset, ENGLAND

Climbs 47 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
Coastguard North is best known for its collection of steep and powerful hard climbs with many in the high 7s and the areaâs hardest route - at 8a+. The approach is quick and easy and a visit is well worth considering if you are tired of the more crowded Blacknor and Battleship Areas. This is a great place for onsighting.

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

0.0mm rain
Sun
12 °C
28 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
13 °C
23 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
10 °C
23 kph

0.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
26 kph

11.8mm rain
Cloudy
11 °C
39 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Dorset (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Cunning LingoE3 6a 1
2El Poder de un Coño6c+ **21
3Explorator MotivatorE3 6a * 
4100% Columbian7a+ *5
5China White6c+ **17
6Boys from the Loose StuffE3 5b  
7Pure Shores6c *18
8Meridian Line7c ** 
9Ming the Merciless7c+ * 
10Headwall Emptiness7b+ **1
11Glycerine7c+ ** 
12Sand Castles7a+ 2
13Wax Museum7b+ ***20
14Dr. Phibes7b **14
15Clockwork Orange7c ** 
16The Nth Degree7c * 
17Wasted7b+ *1
18Last Orders7c * 
19Bar Room Brawl7c+ **1
20Vespasian8b ***2
21Sale of the Century7b ** 
22Zero Tolerance7b+ * 
23Mid-Strife Oasis7c * 
24Eternal Spider7c+ ** 
 Climb nameGradex
25Happy to Go Blind7b+ *2
26No Lion, No TigerE1 5a 1
27Spare Rib7b **11
28Girl Power7a+ *6
29Steve's Route7b *4
30Retaining the Ashes6b *70
31Into the Groove6b+ *23
32Nothing but the Groove6c+ ***83
33Running It In7b+ **12
34Superfly Guy7a ***87
35Lost in Rock6c+ **32
36The Man Who Never Found Himself6a+ **103
37Van People7a **21
38Dosvadanya6c+ *3
39Fantasy Island6c *23
40La Usurpadora7c  
41Heartland7c *3
42Shining Heart7c **10
43Frenzied Detruncation7b+ **5
44Prison Sex7c+ **4
45Midnight Oil7a 6
46Hang 'em High7b *2
47Gun Runner6a 28
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Access notes
Drive through Southwell to the southern end of the island. Park at a small layby just before the Pulpit Inn (room for about 8 cars). DO NOT PARK ON THE ROAD LEADING UP THE HILL. Walk up the private road and head outwards towards the Lookout (now manned in case of emergency). Go down a grass slope behind to the cliff edge then drop down a steep and precarious path onto a promontory (staple in place if needed). This brings you out below the right-hand side of Coastguard North.

This lay by is currently signed as "Urban Clearway". It's due to be be changed soon to allow free parking, but only for an hour at a time.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
if you dont want to pay the 6!!! to park at the bill, its not much more of a walk to come from the blacknor/ battleship parking on the road. and the path suffers from serious erosion, its very steep and wont be to everyones taste. a rope is there to help
mark_wellin - 01/Aug/10