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These details were last updated on 12/Sep/2008

Coastguard North

Dorset, ENGLAND

Climbs 45 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
Coastguard North is best known for its collection of steep and powerful hard climbs with many in the high 7s and the areaâs hardest route - at 8a+. The approach is quick and easy and a visit is well worth considering if you are tired of the more crowded Blacknor and Battleship Areas. This is a great place for onsighting.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1El Poder de un Coño6c+ **16
2Explorator MotivatorE3 6a * 
3100% Columbian7a+ *4
4China White6c+ **13
5Boys from the Loose StuffE3 5b  
6Pure Shores6c *16
7Meridian Line7c ** 
8Ming the Merciless7c+ * 
9Headwall Emptiness7b+ **1
10Glycerine7c+ ** 
11Sand Castles7a+ 1
12Wax Museum7b+ ***15
13Dr. Phibes7b **13
14Clockwork Orange7c ** 
15The Nth Degree7c * 
16Wasted7b+ *1
17Last Orders7c * 
18Bar Room Brawl7c+ **1
19Vespasian8b ***1
20Sale of the Century7b ** 
21Zero Tolerance7b+ * 
22Mid-Strife Oasis7c * 
23Eternal Spider7c+ ** 
 Climb nameGradex
24Happy to Go Blind7b+ *1
25Spare Rib7b **9
26Girl Power7a+ *5
27Steve's Route7b *3
28Retaining the Ashes6b *61
29Into the Groove6b+ *21
30Nothing but the Groove6c+ ***77
31Running It In7b+ **11
32Superfly Guy7a ***73
33Lost in Rock6c+ **30
34The Man Who Never Found Himself6a+ **87
35Van People7a **17
36Dosvadanya6c+ *2
37Fantasy Island6c *22
38La Usurpadora7c  
39Heartland7c *3
40Shining Heart7c **9
41Frenzied Detruncation7b+ **4
42Prison Sex7c+ **4
43Midnight Oil7a 4
44Hang 'em High7b *1
45Gun Runner6a 25
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Access notes
Drive through Southwell to the southern end of the island. Park at a small layby just before the Pulpit Inn (room for about 8 cars). DO NOT PARK ON THE ROAD LEADING UP THE HILL. Walk up the private road and head outwards towards the Lookout (now manned in case of emergency). Go down a grass slope behind to the cliff edge then drop down a steep and precarious path onto a promontory (staple in place if needed). This brings you out below the right-hand side of Coastguard North.

This lay by is currently signed as "Urban Clearway". It's due to be be changed soon to allow free parking, but only for an hour at a time.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Tom Beaumont ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
if you dont want to pay the £6!!! to park at the bill, its not much more of a walk to come from the blacknor/ battleship parking on the road. and the path suffers from serious erosion, its very steep and wont be to everyones taste. a rope is there to help
mark_wellin ? - 01/Aug/10