Coastguard North

Climbs 47 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
Coastguard North is best known for its collection of steep and powerful hard climbs with many in the high 7s and the areaâs hardest route - at 8a+. The approach is quick and easy and a visit is well worth considering if you are tired of the more crowded Blacknor and Battleship Areas. This is a great place for onsighting.

Access notes
Drive through Southwell to the southern end of the island. Park at a small layby just before the Pulpit Inn (room for about 8 cars). DO NOT PARK ON THE ROAD LEADING UP THE HILL. Walk up the private road and head outwards towards the Lookout (now manned in case of emergency). Go down a grass slope behind to the cliff edge then drop down a steep and precarious path onto a promontory (staple in place if needed). This brings you out below the right-hand side of Coastguard North.

This lay by is currently signed as "Urban Clearway". It's due to be be changed soon to allow free parking, but only for an hour at a time.

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 WAX MUSEUM AREA 
2Cunning LingoE3 6a
3El Poder de un Coño6c+ **
4Explorator MotivatorE3 6a *
5100% Columbian7a+ *
6China White6c+ **
7Boys from the Loose StuffE3 5b
8Pure Shores6c *
9Meridian Line7c **
10Ming the Merciless7c+ *
11Headwall Emptiness7b+ **
12Glycerine7c+ **
13Sand Castles7a+
14Wax Museum7b+ ***
15Dr. Phibes7b **
16Clockwork Orange7c **
17The Nth Degree7c *
18Wasted7b+ *
19Last Orders7c *
20Bar Room Brawl7c+ **
21Vespasian8b ***
22Sale of the Century7b **
23Zero Tolerance7b+ *
24Mid-Strife Oasis7c *
25Eternal Spider7c+ **
26Happy to Go Blind7b+ *
27No Lion, No TigerE1 5a
 NOTHING BUT THE GROOVE AREA 
29Spare Rib7b **
30Girl Power7a+ *
31Steve's Route7b *
32Retaining the Ashes6b *
33Into the Groove6b+ *
34Nothing but the Groove6c+ ***
35Running It In7b+ **
36Superfly Guy7a ***
37Lost in Rock6c+ **
38The Man Who Never Found Himself6a+ **
39Van People7a **
40Dosvadanya6c+ *
41Fantasy Island6c *
42La Usurpadora7c
43Heartland7c *
44Shining Heart7c **
45Frenzied Detruncation7b+ **
46Prison Sex7c+ **
47Midnight Oil7a
48Hang 'em High7b *
49Gun Runner6a
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
if you dont want to pay the 6!!! to park at the bill, its not much more of a walk to come from the blacknor/ battleship parking on the road. and the path suffers from serious erosion, its very steep and wont be to everyones taste. a rope is there to help
mark_wellin - 01/Aug/10