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These details were last updated on 12/Sep/2008

Coastguard North

Dorset, ENGLAND

Climbs 47 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
Coastguard North is best known for its collection of steep and powerful hard climbs with many in the high 7s and the areaâs hardest route - at 8a+. The approach is quick and easy and a visit is well worth considering if you are tired of the more crowded Blacknor and Battleship Areas. This is a great place for onsighting.

Access notes
Drive through Southwell to the southern end of the island. Park at a small layby just before the Pulpit Inn (room for about 8 cars). DO NOT PARK ON THE ROAD LEADING UP THE HILL. Walk up the private road and head outwards towards the Lookout (now manned in case of emergency). Go down a grass slope behind to the cliff edge then drop down a steep and precarious path onto a promontory (staple in place if needed). This brings you out below the right-hand side of Coastguard North.

This lay by is currently signed as "Urban Clearway". It's due to be be changed soon to allow free parking, but only for an hour at a time.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
17 °C
12 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
18 °C
23 kph

3.8mm rain
Sun
16 °C
35 kph

1.2mm rain
Cloudy
17 °C
28 kph

9.6mm rain
Cloudy
17 °C
59 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 WAX MUSEUM AREA  
2Cunning LingoE3 6a 1
3El Poder de un Coño6c+ **22
4Explorator MotivatorE3 6a * 
5100% Columbian7a+ *5
6China White6c+ **17
7Boys from the Loose StuffE3 5b  
8Pure Shores6c *20
9Meridian Line7c ** 
10Ming the Merciless7c+ * 
11Headwall Emptiness7b+ **1
12Glycerine7c+ ** 
13Sand Castles7a+ 2
14Wax Museum7b+ ***23
15Dr. Phibes7b **15
16Clockwork Orange7c ** 
17The Nth Degree7c * 
18Wasted7b+ *1
19Last Orders7c * 
20Bar Room Brawl7c+ **1
21Vespasian8b ***3
22Sale of the Century7b ** 
23Zero Tolerance7b+ * 
24Mid-Strife Oasis7c * 
25Eternal Spider7c+ ** 
 Climb nameGradex
26Happy to Go Blind7b+ *2
27No Lion, No TigerE1 5a 1
 NOTHING BUT THE GROOVE AREA  
29Spare Rib7b **17
30Girl Power7a+ *11
31Steve's Route7b *7
32Retaining the Ashes6b *85
33Into the Groove6b+ *31
34Nothing but the Groove6c+ ***96
35Running It In7b+ **13
36Superfly Guy7a ***117
37Lost in Rock6c+ **38
38The Man Who Never Found Himself6a+ **122
39Van People7a **21
40Dosvadanya6c+ *3
41Fantasy Island6c *25
42La Usurpadora7c  
43Heartland7c *3
44Shining Heart7c **11
45Frenzied Detruncation7b+ **5
46Prison Sex7c+ **4
47Midnight Oil7a 7
48Hang 'em High7b *2
49Gun Runner6a 31
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
if you dont want to pay the 6!!! to park at the bill, its not much more of a walk to come from the blacknor/ battleship parking on the road. and the path suffers from serious erosion, its very steep and wont be to everyones taste. a rope is there to help
mark_wellin - 01/Aug/10