Columnar dolerite giving rise to uniform series of grooves and ribs.
Doesn't look particularly inviting with a huge quarry below the crag and the rock looking quite green, but many of the routes are better than they look.
Had a look tonite (3 Aug 06) - the rock face could become a decent venue - except access from Dalmahoy Hill is not easy (lots of bracken to get through). The rock in very dirty, and there is a lot of grass on all the routes. What it needs is a season or two of climbing to clean it up. Also, having the working quarry below is not ideal. However, there are a load of decent looking routes. Maybe one day. Oh, and the views are fantastic.
Access from north by quarry road. Park at rail bridge (NT 136675). Follow a signposted right of way up to the crag.
Access is best over the hill, but finding your way to the base of the climbs is difficult. Maybe best way would be abseil from top?
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)
|5||Lightning Groove||VS 4b *||2|
|6||Munich Climb||VS 4b *||1|
|7||Grass Widows||HVS 5a *||1|
|8||Curving Groove||VS 4c *|
|9||Resurresction||VS 4b *|
|10||Midgy Gem||VS 4c *||1|
|11||Elation||HVS 5a *|
|12||Frustration||MVS 4b *|
|13||The Lemming||HVS 4c *|
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|Nightmarish vegetated approach to crumbly ribs of rock thickly coated in dust and grime from the quarry below. Don't even think about it.|
niggle - 23/Apr/10
|Finding the Right of Way was ok, I was unsure if i'd actually have to cross the quarry but you don't. Reached the top of the hill fine, but how to get to the bottom of the crag I don't know. Abseiling down from the Rowan tree seems the only possibility. Nice looking rock though, the crag looks wide and descent. If you're unsure of exactly where the crag is on the hill, it's exactly in front of the railway bridge which is crossed before parking.|
stevenhope - 19/Feb/09
|This crag is best avoided altogether. Access is terrible. Go to Traprain Law instead.
The only safe way to access the crag is to follow the Right of way path, which dissapears at bits, and go around the farthest extent of the quarry clockwise, which means about a 45 minute walk to the top of the hill. There is a high point on the crags overlooking all the quarry machinery. Abseil down from there to a rowan tree. I wouldnt recomment descending any other way as its on very slippy overgrown and steep ground. Alternatively you could cut straight through the working part of the quarry and scramble up very loose and dangerous scree followed by the same slippy overgrown and steep ground. Would highly recommend not doing that though as we got a health and safety lecture from a quarry workman who saw us on the slope.
There is a small rowan tree just to the right (looking at it from the quarry) of a steep grassy section (in between rocky sections) that leads to the top of the crag (dont use it as a descent route, its scary). The climbs start just below this tree in the Lowland Outcrops guide book.|
climberuk - 04/Jun/07
|Visited this crag today, couldn't find where it actually was as there are quite a few large outcrops in the area, very confusing! From the rock i did see it looked like it needed a lot of cleaning so i assume thats the case for the rest of the crags here. Best to visit with a map if you want to climb.|
gambit247 - 17/Feb/07